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Discussion Starter #1
I noticed that the brakes on one side of the car (the left) were always hotter than the other. So I opened it, and I had stuck slider pins, and probably a bad caliper too.

So I replaced everything - new pins, new calipers, new rotor and pads.

I took it for a test drive and used the e-brake to test it out (did 2 25mph stops). Seemed fine, but did seem to pull to the left a bit.

I get home and on one side (the same side as before) the brakes are smoking and the rotor is burning hot, and on the other barely hot to the touch.

What's wrong? Any ideas?
 

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is it rear discs?
im guessing because you mentioned the e-brake
it could possibly be more air
or some bad hoses
 

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It sounds to me like you have a blockage in your proportioning valve. It's allowing more pressure to one caliper than the other.
 

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You're saying both front and rear on the left side are hot? That wouldn't be a proportioning valve. Have you flushed the fluid at all 4 wheels?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
QUOTE (WJC @ May 25 2009, 12:25 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=727772
You're saying both front and rear on the left side are hot? That wouldn't be a proportioning valve. Have you flushed the fluid at all 4 wheels?[/b]
No, just the rear left is hot.

I flushed the rears when changing the calipers, and the fronts were done about a year ago.
 

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Take a long coil of clear vinyl tubing and attach it to the bleeder screw. Hold it up and crack open the screw. Have a helper slowly press the pedal, then slowly retract it. If the fliud retracts then there's still something wrong with the caliper, if it doesn't then it's the hose.
 

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I would check all your other calipers and make sure they are working well. Most of the time the problem is opposite of the one running hot..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
QUOTE (svttech76 @ May 26 2009, 09:21 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=728131
I would check all your other calipers and make sure they are working well. Most of the time the problem is opposite of the one running hot..[/b]
Can you explain? What would I look for in the other caliper?

QUOTE (WJC @ May 25 2009, 10:39 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=727915
Take a long coil of clear vinyl tubing and attach it to the bleeder screw. Hold it up and crack open the screw. Have a helper slowly press the pedal, then slowly retract it. If the fliud retracts then there's still something wrong with the caliper, if it doesn't then it's the hose.[/b]
It finally stopped raining long enough for me to test this. I tried it, and the fluid didn't move at all. So I replaced the brake hose - and it's still doing it! The rear left brake is always hotter than the right! Sometimes much hotter.

What could it be? I've replaced the caliper and the hose. I don't think I got a bad caliper because it did the same thing with the old one.

What else could be the problem? Could the e-brake be doing it? Or does it auto adjust to whatever?
 

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You said it has rear disc brakes I believe, so I am pretty sure you did not get the emergency brake pins lined up with the piston head. Since most Taurus and Sable owners do not have wagons which come standard with rear disc brakes they are not familiar with your problem. I am on my second wagon, one Taurus and now a Sable. The disc pads have pins on them which must face the piston side of the caliper and the easiest way to align them is to make sure that the piston surface has the lug holes at 12 and 6 positions. You need a special tool to turn the piston back into its' bore so you can install the new pads. You can probably use needle nose pliers to turn the piston in but you must push like crazy on the pliers while turning in order for the piston to catch the threads and move inward. Get yourself a repair manual (Chilton or Haynes) which will work for brakes and most other things.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
QUOTE (jndejure @ Jun 2 2009, 08:44 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=729782
You said it has rear disc brakes I believe, so I am pretty sure you did not get the emergency brake pins lined up with the piston head.[/b]
I did actually line them up. They were new calipers and came already at 12 and 6.

However the last time I did the work (5 years ago) I did not know about it, and didn't pay attention to it. If you screw it all the way down, does it automatically line up?

Anyway I've pretty much given up on figuring this out. Plus the rail is all bent up in every spot, so I don't think I can lift the car anymore.
 

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Even if you had them lined up at 12 and 6 they may have moved if you did not press down on the brake pedal a few times while the car was stationary to tighten up the piston on the brake pads first. You should do this with the motor running and the transmission in park. This happened on my 96 Taurus wagon and I had to drive home with a rear inner brake pad rubbing on the disk. They do get hot, lucky it was winter and the temperature was around freezing. Anyway once I did the job right the problem never surfaced again and no noticeable damage resulted from the heat. I was worried that the wheel bearing would be shot but the car took me to Florida and back without a sound from that rear wheel. As to jacking your car up, there are specific places to set the jack to lift the car that will not hurt any part of the under framework. Take your time and good luck.
 
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