[sammy]

One of my front brake pads got worn down until it scored the rotor. I went to autozone and picked up a new rotor and front brake pads. After jacking up the car I haven't been able to loosen the 12 or 15mm bolts that hold on the caliper and brace. I have wrentched on them for like an hour and havn't gotten any of them to budge, I've used lots of WD-40 etc. It is getting to the point where the heads of the bolts are starting to get smoothed out.

Any tips on this??
It is a 93 sable wagon.

Thanks

 

[healthcoach dave]

Lowe's has a really good pentrating oil that may help, just ask for it.
also auto zone has loaner tools for brake jobs that reaally help and
make the job much easier, just ask them it's free.
if you round that head you will have to use another tool to get it
off, ask the gies at autozone.
dave

 

[shoz123]

Use a 1/2" drive six point socket. Once those heads are rounded off it is time for the vise grips. They do have a bit of Loctite on them.

 

[sammy]

Thanks for the advice guys,

I picked up the PB penetrateing bolt loosener spary stuff that the guy at Autozone recommended to me. Several applications and still didn't budge. I guess it is time for vice grips or that toothed un-bolting tool since the smaller bolts are pretty bald. <_<

 

[Damon]

I dont mean to insult you, but are you sure you are turning in the right direction? Keep in mind you are not facing the head of the bolt, so things are going to be a bit different.

I have sheared a few bolts in my day doing that h34r:

I lived and learned :blush:

-DC

 

[ststephen]

I did that also, the wrong way thing, I was SOOO mad at myself, anyway.

Also, you cannot just replace one, you really should do both sides the same, you are gonna do that, right?

GOOD LUCK!

 

[sammy]

Uhh... no worries, I am definitely turning them the correct direction =)

Planning on replacing pads on both sides, but just the one damaged rotor. I figured that is OK?

-Sam

 

[ron porter]

As was mentioned, use 6-point sockets.

FWIW, I use an 18" breaker bar on the socket. I then whack it with a big hammer to break it loose.

Screw using the penetrating oil, it wont help with the brakes. You need to whack on it.

 

[ron porter]

Originally posted by sammy@Sep 5 2004, 10:52 AM
Uhh... no worries, I am definitely turning them the correct direction =)

Planning on replacing pads on both sides, but just the one damaged rotor. I figured that is OK?

-Sam

Yeajh, that will work just fine (new pads on both sides, and one new rotor).

The main issue is why ONE pad wore down and scored the rotor. I will guess that it's an inside pad.

IMHO, it sounds like the caliper piston is sticking. I would also replace the caliper, which is about $30 at AutoZone.

 

[sammy]

The deed is done

a "bolt-grip" and a heavier duty socket wrench with a longer throw did the trick.
Heh... all that trouble and it probably didn't even take five minutes to do the other side.
It is a little late to put in a new caliper... what would signs of a sticking caliper be? Maybe pulling slightly to that side while driving? Also, correct on it being an inside pad. The drivers side pads, where the rotor damage was, were much more worn than the passenger. And the car does pull very slightly to the drivers side.

thanks for the resposnes,

-Sam

 

[ron porter]

Originally posted by sammy@Sep 5 2004, 05:55 PM
It is a little late to put in a new caliper... what would signs of a sticking caliper be?  Maybe pulling slightly to that side while driving?  Also, correct on it being an inside pad.

The signs of a sticking caliper are brake pads that wear more on one side than the other.....particularly the inside pad.

I beliieve this sounds familiar!!

It's not "a little late"......Once you have done it, changing the caliper can be done in under 1/2 hour.

If it's sticking, you will trash that set of pads in very little time.