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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2000 Ford Taurus 3.0L no ABS no traction control, About 6 months ago my car would not stop properly I would press the brakes all the way down and it would keep rolling for a good distance before it would stop, and also my hand brake was weak as well, so I took it to my mechanic and he cleaned out the inside of my drum brakes in the back and he adjusted them. So the car was good after that, then about 2 or 3 months later, my brakes would stop decent but I would have to press the pedal all the way down, so it was similar to the previous problem but not as bad and the emergency brake was fine, So I kept driving the car for the past few months and I finally got a chance to take it to my mechanic to get the problem fixed. So I got the front disc brakes changed about 2 months ago and I still had the same problem, so about 3 days I changed the power brake booster, master cylinder, and got new rear brake shoes and the car is worse than before. My mechanic told me that maybe the master cylinder he bought was defective (even though it was new not rebuilt) so he bought another one and nothing changed, then he said maybe we need to bleed the brakes and leave it overnight and bleed them again in the morning. So we did that and still nothing changed. So now the car is still at his garage and he doesn't know what's wrong with it because he fixed every possible option. And now he plans to just change the master cylinder for a third time because maybe it's defective (even though it's new!). So if anybody has any suggestions or experience about this matter please let me know.

oh and there's no noise at all, and the emergency brake works perfect now. But for some reason even if you press the brake pedal all the way down to the floor it will not stop it keeps rolling a good distance. It has a new brake booster, front disc brakes, master cylinder, new rear brake shoes. What could be the problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
do the rpms change when you apply the brake?
No sir, RPM is normal while braking. But when accelerating I notice that it takes longer than my old taurus to shift to the next gear, it waits until it's in high rpms to shift like around 4k RPM before it shifts to the next gear.
 

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so when you take your foot off the gas and apply the brakes the rpms drop down below 900. is it down shifting hard also?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
so when you take your foot off the gas and apply the brakes the rpms drop down below 900. is it down shifting hard also?
No everything in terms of braking and RPM is normal, it downshifts smoothly, and I never really payed attention to the exact number of RPM i'll check for you tomorrow. I dont know if this is related but when you put the car in reverse SOMETIMES it will start shaking very loudly. This only happens in reverse.
 

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with the car off and on level ground get it rolling slowly nad apply the brakes. car should stop somewhat easy with a hard pedal. repeat with car at idle while trans is in neutral. car should stop fast with the pedal only moving around 3 inches and be firm. then when car running in neutral apply brake and have someone try to push the car. car shouldnt move.
 

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before i forget.
900rpms when cold in gear. 650rpms when warm in gear
if the rpms are higher then this the brakes will not be able to hold and have a hard time stopping the car.
 

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"But for some reason even if you press the brake pedal all the way down to the floor ..."
If the system was bled and all the air is out of the system, the pedal should not go to the floor. Do you have a firm pedal when depressed? I was bleeding my brakes on my truck recently and developed an air lock of sorts in the master cylinder. I loosened the master cylinder cap and hand pumped the brake pedal quickly and pedal came back up.
 

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Were front rotors replaced?

Were the front caliper pistons checked for free movement as well as the guide pins?

Are the rubber brake hoses going from the hard lines to the calipers/cylinders in good shape and not spongy?

Was the master cylinder bench bled before installation and was the caliper bleeding properly done?

I would give your mechanic the benefit of the doubt but unless you are seeing loss of brake fluid (possibly from a worn rear drum cylinder, if they were not replaced), you should not see the pedal go to the floor.
 

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I have a 2000 Ford Taurus 3.0L no ABS no traction control, About 6 months ago my car would not stop properly I would press the brakes all the way down and it would keep rolling for a good distance before it would stop, and also my hand brake was weak as well, so I took it to my mechanic and he cleaned out the inside of my drum brakes in the back and he adjusted them. So the car was good after that, then about 2 or 3 months later, my brakes would stop decent but I would have to press the pedal all the way down, so it was similar to the previous problem but not as bad and the emergency brake was fine, So I kept driving the car for the past few months and I finally got a chance to take it to my mechanic to get the problem fixed. So I got the front disc brakes changed about 2 months ago and I still had the same problem, so about 3 days I changed the power brake booster, master cylinder, and got new rear brake shoes and the car is worse than before. My mechanic told me that maybe the master cylinder he bought was defective (even though it was new not rebuilt) so he bought another one and nothing changed, then he said maybe we need to bleed the brakes and leave it overnight and bleed them again in the morning. So we did that and still nothing changed. So now the car is still at his garage and he doesn't know what's wrong with it because he fixed every possible option. And now he plans to just change the master cylinder for a third time because maybe it's defective (even though it's new!). So if anybody has any suggestions or experience about this matter please let me know.

oh and there's no noise at all, and the emergency brake works perfect now. But for some reason even if you press the brake pedal all the way down to the floor it will not stop it keeps rolling a good distance. It has a new brake booster, front disc brakes, master cylinder, new rear brake shoes. What could be the problem?
You need a mechanic who has a clue.

Not safe for you or thers. I presume the pedal goes down too far.

If your guy adjusted the drum brakes and it made a noticable difference, then your rears are not working. They have self adjusters and they are not adjusting. Car is 11 years old. Likely rusty stuck adjusters, wheel cylinders stuck, springs rusty and not working. Need to replace everything in the hardware.

And be careful to check the shoes to see that their radius matches the drums. If they are wrong ones, wrong radius, or drums have been truned too much, the shoes deform, causing excess travel in the cylinders.

Remember, the system is in two halves. One front and opposite rears on one side and revers on other side. That is so, if one line brakes, you still have one front and one rear for minimum stopping, not total fail. With that, if both rears are way off, you have "low pedal".

Sitting still, running, pedal should go down maybe 1.5" and be firm to the feel. Soft and spungy pedal can be air in the lines, can be bad rear brake fit.

-chart-
 
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