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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Help me lol, ever since I bought this car, it has had brake issues, first thing that happened was the master cylinder went bad causing my brakes to go to floor without stopping after that was fixed I got new pads and rotors and noticed a bad shake I the front end when braking, turns out both calipers on both sides were seized, bought new calipers, bled the system, problem went away until again the master cylinder busted, warrantied it through the shop and everything was working great. Until today.

Today I noticed server drag on my car while driving to family, and smelled a very bad smell and some smoke at one point, thought it was engine at first when I pulled over then later realized it was brakes.

It doesn't happen when car has been sitting and had time to cool off, when first driving everything is fine until I drive a decent distance, then I noticed really bad drag and the vehicle can slow down really fast. Leading me to believe calipers are stuck again...but this didn't happen last time with stuck calipers, just a front end shake, and I also noticed the rotors and plastic hubs get extremely hot after driving for at least 30 minutes

Checked my back drum brakes and they also got hot but not nearly as hot as my front rotors, this is leading me too believe it may be both driver and passenger brake hoses, and I'm going to try replacing those next, as I've replaced rotors/pads/calipers/adjuster wheels on drum brakes and the drums themselves of the braking system along with the master cylinder.

Any input on if it could be something else entirely before I tackle the hoses? They have never been replaced so I'm doing it anyway,, but could there be any other causes?

What are signs of a sticking ebrake? I was reading that could also be a culprit.
 

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The description fits a hose problem. An issue with the e brake would be evident at all times, including cold start up. The e brake would also have no effect on the front brakes
 

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All four wheels dragging isn't likely a hose problem.
Press the brake pedal down with your fingers. It should have about 1/2" of free play before you feel resistance. If not the master cylinder isn't releasing. This would cause all wheels to drag. It's possible the new master cylinder is incorrect or that the pushrod extending out of the booster was adjusted, when it shouldn't be messed with
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It's only the fronts dragging, as far as I can tell, the resistance seems to come from the front and the brake pedal is good, it actually when the car warms up has less push before I stop that's what leads me to believe it's the front only, as it's only after the car had driven for five minutes plus.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Okay, what else could be my problem,,I believe I feel them still sticking from time to time after replacing all below:

calipers
Rotors
Brake pads
Brake hoses
Bleeding the brakes

And I believe I still feel it dragging, not as bad, but still some, all these parts were purchased brand new and installed today too replace my less than a month old calipers brakes and pads lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
More Brake Issues, HELP!

Okay ever since I've gotten this car, I have had nothing but brake issues, it all started wrish a failing master cylinder that a mechanic replaced, or at least i thought, the one he said he replaced looked rather old, so I'm thinking he just rebuilt the master cylinder then, it failed and I took it back again...within two weeks.

Well it was good for about 4 weeks this time, started getting a pedal that went all the way down to the floor, took it back again, I think her just kept rebuilding the master cylinder.

Fast forward to now, like 3 months later, brakes have been good,, but I've had constant issues with stuck calipers, that issue finally seemed to resolve itself after two sets of rotors brakes, drums, calipers and finally replacing my hoses, which I think was the culprit....

Now again! I'm getting a very spongy brake pedal that I can pump to stop, or do a fast brake, but they are doing the same thing they did before...I'm going to have a good friend replace my master cylinder this time with a brand new one and a network brake booster, and not take it back to that mechanic...hoping that an actual new,, not used, or rebuilt master cylinder will fix my issues, why would a master cylinder I'd even rebuilt fail 3 times within 3 months?

Could I be looking at other possible issues like a bad provisioning valve? I've had my wheel cylinders checked out and they area fine in the back drums, I'm not leaking/losing fluid either, so I'm beginning to just be completely stymied...
 

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It's possible the master cylinder was rebuilt improperly. Seals inside could have been mixed up. Primary seals that hold pressure are slightly wider and have a sharp lip to seal high pressure compared to secondary seals that keep fluid within the cylinder.
Mix these up and the brakes won't release, causing drag. Putting secondary seals in place of primary will result it sudden failure of brakes.
A new MC that is bench bleed will likely solve the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Okay note we've ran into an issue, the old brake booster armed like it was bad, so it was replaced along with the master cylinder, now though with rhyming hooked back up, and the master cylinder bench bled, we have brakes,, but a very very stiff hard pedal, so obviously it's something with the booster, what could be wrong with it?
 

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Brake Drags Overheats - solved - Flex Hose restriction

Brake Drags Overheats - solved - Flex Hose restriction

[ As well - Vibration on Highway - due partly to tie rod ends - but brake drag too. Double issue ]

Bump Thread - So I saw and read this thread and it helped me solve my problem, along with a really good You Tube Video - which I will share link to below.

So I will share - could help others.

Problem: One front disc brake on the 2000 Taurus would Drag and Heat up / even overheat, start to smell and burn - but only sometimes. Intermittently. And Vibration on highway. Thought only caliper, or tight slider pin ... but no - more - read on.

Note:
As well - VIBRATION on the highway at speeds over 80 Km/h, as that brake dragged a little / but would free up after short time, on the highway. (Vibration was also made worse by tie rod ends getting a little loose, replaced w/new tie rod ends, inner/outer both sides - and aligned recently - helped solve most of vibration - but not all. Brakes drag too. Suspected / Checked Tire Balance too - but that was good. )

I digress:

And just changed the brake pads and had the rotors expertly machined with a new caliper too on that side.

Sliders / Slider pins were good and free now too, confirmed - having just done the front brakes and checked myself.

Calipers and pistons were good - moving - confirmed - cleaned up of rust and freed up, and confirmed pistons moving, with clamp push back - but that one front disc brake that was dragging and overheating - sometimes - seemed a little more difficult to push in with the clamp, so I had my suspiscions already on that side.

After some test drives - inspecting - it was clear one front disc was getting noticeably hotter than the other as well.

After another test drive, heating up way too much again, and even glowing dull red hot (! yikes) (seen best at night in the dark). Smoking a little, stinking, cooking good sometimes / sometimes not, and the whole wheel hub on the outside, obviously pretty hot. But only sometimes. Hmmm.

... finally determined - I still have a problem. Need to find it and fix it.
I HAVE A DEFINITE PROBLEM.

Did research here on this Forum and online, and found Video that led me to the EXACT problem.

FLEX HOSE BEING PINCHED BY STEEL CLAMP / HOSE SUPPORT EXACTLY IN THE MIDDLE OF THE FLEX HOSE - THAT HAD RUSTED INSIDE THERE OVER THE YEARS, AND AS THE RUST EXPANDS INTERNALLY IN THE CLAMP, SQUEEZES THE FLEX HOSE ALMOST SHUT AT THAT SPOT - SEVERELY RESTRICTING THE FLOW BACK OF HYDRAULIC FLUID - WHEN YOU RELEASE THE BRAKES - THUS KEEPING THE PISTON UNDER PRESSURE FOR TOO LONG AFTER YOU RELEASE THE BRAKES. ACTING LIKE A ONE WAY VALVE WHEN YOU DEPRESS THE BRAKES. FLUID AND PRESSURE IN ... BUT NOT OUT / OR OUT VERY SLOWLY.

Check out this You Tube Video - this was my exact problem:

***https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVaI6dQlkBY***

[ copy link into new browser window minus asteriks / without the stars ]


It would do it mostly in the city, when you apply and release the brakes more often.

It would release very slowly, long delay, as the fluid slowly flowed out, with great restriction, due to the pinch / blockage. And during that time - keep heating up more and more each time. And as the disc expands as it heats - dragging more and more making it worse.

Solution: Open up the clamp "loop" by prying carefully with various tools: large screwdrivers, small pry bars, vice grips, prying / levering against each other. Then, when clamp opened up enough, slide out flex hose from clamp, then wire brush crusty rust out, and then file out rust inside loop of clamp, with round file, then put together again, and clamp carefully with vice grips again, careful not to over clamp the flex hose at that spot / careful not to restrict again - but just enough to hold the hose enough as intended, and give the support / hose guide / support as needed again.

Then re-test. Go in car, apply brakes, go back to wheel and try rotate / to spin back and forth, see if free's up right after brake released - without "DELAY" .

Then test drive again. Highway and city and stop and check if heating more than other side again.

Yes - that was exactly the problem, and I fixed it, did not even have to disassemble any of the Hydraulic lines at all. Looking at it - I could tell that was probably the issue. Yes.

I will have to check the other side - at some later time - and maybe do the same "service".

Yes - I am in a rust belt area - where they throw road salt in the winter.

Yes - I drive this car in winter.

Yes - The car is old with many miles - near 20 year old car with near 285,000 km now.

So we start to see these sorts of problems now.

RUST - seems to be the cause of MANY of the problems I encounter on this older vehicle.
( ex. recently - rusting hose crimps / steel tubes on cooling system lines - on firewall, leading to heater core)

Fascinating problem - the way this develops. I never would have believed it.

Hope this helps someone else.

And the guy that produced that Video - deserves positive feedback - for clearly explaining and showing the problem.

Thanks all . Another (serious and important) problem fixed.
 

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These two videos are good too - for general troubleshooting / fixing of this type of problem with brakes.


Ford Quick Tips #73: Quickly Diagnose a Sticking Brake Caliper w/ One Simple Test

***https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3tVUo9bI1M***




How to Fix Sticking Brakes on Your Car

***https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqB4RHvk_wk***


P.S. Thinking back on my issue that I had... there was also a short delay on the Passenger side front caliper / brake when pushing the brake pedal. Makes sense - as fluid flow is restricted when going IN as well as coming OUT of the caliper cylinder / piston.

It manifests itself also in this way, on the Highway at speed:

Pressing brake at highway speeds, car DID PULL a little to the left / to the center line, very briefly, as the Left / Driver side front caliper grabs first, then after hydraulic DELAY to the Right / Passenger side Caliper - then that Caliper grabs, and braking happens normally, straight ahead with NO PULL, after the short delay.

Ya, very SNAKEY and WEIRD behaviour with a partial hydraulic restriction on one front brake flex hose.

SYMPTOMS I NOTED:

VIBRATION AT SPEED (made worse by loose tie rod ends/fixed). TEMPORARY / QUICK PULL TO ONE SIDE AT SPEED THEN NORMAL after that/ ONE SIDE NOTICEBLY HOTTER THAN THE OTHER (bringing hand close to disc / wheel hub, after short drive)/ ONE SIDE OVERHEATING AND SMOKING / STINKING / BURNING A LITTLE SOMETIMES, ESP IN CITY DRIVING WHEN YOU APPLY THE BRAKES ON AND OFF MORE OFTEN / A little more DRAG on one side than the other, trying wheel drag by hand with vehicle up on stands (as described / shown in one video, wheel drag test).

[ symptoms go away with highway driving and no braking - as piston releases - as hydraulic fluid slowly flows back from wheel cylinder / piston releases - then re-occur as you apply the brakes a few times ]

Hope this helps some. The symptoms and diagnosis and fix - are very interesting ...
 
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