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Wife told me that heir was a squel coming from a wheel so I pulled he right rear tire and found that the iner pad was worn to nothing, went to Advance to but pads for all the way around. Got home found the rotor was scored so back into town to get rotor turned. THe mechanix told me the pad was worn because the caliber bolt slide was rusted in place. Went home and he was right, after 1.5 hours of penetrating oil and heavy hammer blows and twisting I finally got the old bolt out. Back to Advance for the new bolt, bring it home and it is too long, back to Advance again and discover they had given me the front bolts not the rear, they did not have the rear in stock so down the street to AutoZone for the correct part.

All told what should have been a 30 minute job toke 6 hours with 5 trips to get stuff.......

AAAAAAHHHHHHHHHH

Lesson learned---- when you do a brake job always relubricate the calpir bolts with some grease to keep them from ruting in place, do not asume the boots will keep the moisture out.
 

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I had an extremely difficult time remounting the rear calipers to the brackets on the '96 LX. I had to remove the E-brake spring. I managed to get it all back together, but this was by far the hardest brake job of all time.
Anyone else have a very difficult time with the rear disc brakes? <_<
 

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Originally posted by neilc88@Feb 23 2004, 11:33 AM
I had an extremely difficult time remounting the rear calipers to the brackets on the '96 LX. I had to remove the E-brake spring. I managed to get it all back together, but this was by far the hardest brake job of all time.
Anyone else have a very difficult time with the rear disc brakes? <_<
The first time I did the rear brakes was unpleasant. I also removed the emergency brake spring on one side. I thought it would be easier to reconnect the cable with the spring off, then put the spring back. That was a huge mistake
I had to build a special tool to get that horrific little spring back on.

Also, I screwed the pistons back in using the points of a pair of pliers in the two notches on the piston face. That was big mistake #2. The real answer is spending $5 on the tool you can put on a socket wrench. The tool has tabs to match the piston notches. Then, attach a bleeder hose and open up the bleeder screw to let the pressure out. Doing those two things got the pistons to screw right in
 
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