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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm having the rusted heater hose problem. The heater outlet hose that runs from the water pump into the firewall is rusted, as well as the inlet hose(i believe that's it) that's directly opposite the outlet hose to the right. It's not the shunt that runs between the two above (bypass hose).

Any estimate of how much longer they might last? The worst rust is near the connection between the outlet hose and the rubber going into the firewall, where the metal connector (i don't know the technical name for it is) :rollseyes2: is.

Is there anything I could wrap the hoses with to bide time or anything I can do?

I don't have the money to have them replaced for about another month or so.
 

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Just buy some bulk hose by the foot and replace them yourself. You don't have to use the metal ended factory stuff at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What diameter is it specifically? 3/4"? And would I have to drain the radiator? I'm trying to avoid if at all possible... would there be something especially effective that I could plug the intact hoses with while I'm replacing the ruined ones?

Also, what can I remove the metal connecting piece with? I don't have a dremel at my disposal, as suggested before, and I've heard that the section leading into or out of the heater core is especially fragile.
 

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You should be replacing the fluid every two years anyway. Hose is either 3/4" or 5/8". I agree about the bulk hose. Just cut the aluminum crimps off the factory hoses and slip the new hose over the end.

Clean any rust off and use a thin layer of silicone grease on the metal. Then use good worm clamps to hold it together.
 

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I just replaced mine(on a 2000 Vulcan) when I did my transmission. The entire assembly with hoses and clamps was about $90. It's a pain to get straight hose to stay clear of the back of the engine(exhaust manifold). It's not that hard to drain the coolant-the drain is at the bottom of the radiator. Once drained, I used a shop vac to suck out the coolant in the heater core so I did not get it in the face when I disconnected it. Remove the top hose connection by the firewall, then (with a pan under the engine) remove the hose at the back of the engine. Place end of shop vac hose near the end of the hose from the back of the engine. Use just enough suction to get it to flow (don't create a perfect seal with duct tape) and draw air through for a little while to get as much as you can out. I was able to get most of the coolant out, but a little dripped on my shirt when I disconnected the bottom heater hose. Wear goggles when you disconnect the lines from underneath. Don't put too much force on the heater core fittings. FYI I had the transmission out so access was easy, the hardest part was manuvering the part out and back in to place. There are 2 nuts that secure the assembly to the firewall. I also flushed the heater core in both directions since I was there anyway. Here's a few pics. Good luck!
 

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I bought the assembly at the local Ford dealer. I did not replace the heater hose to the water pump as it was in good condition. I did replace the upper radiator hose earlier this year as preventative maintenance (since I had the radiator out anyway).
 
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