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Discussion Starter #1
So i just purchased this car.
2000, SES, 111k 3.0 FFV

The dealer stated that they replaced a ball joint on the passengers side right before they sold me the car. After taking the car to firestone, we discovered that when the mechanic replaced the ball joint, he somehow burned through the boot? Greese has just started to leak out slowly.

I called the dealer of course, and they said they will take care of it but it will take them a half day. They also seem like they are just going to rig it, and not do it right. I dont trust their mechanic anyway at this point so seen how I got this car for $2600 and paid cash of course, I figure i dont mind eating a repair bill because the car is MINT.

How long do I have until it starts effecting the half shaft?
Better questions, round abouts how much would a repair like this cost? Is it good to do at the dealer or can I go just about anywhere to get it fixed?


Your help/advise is much appreciated at always,
Tim
Rochester, NY
 

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You can go pretty much anywhere to get it done, but you can also do it yourself. The halfshaft can be replaced in less than an hour if you've got the right tools, which you can rent from Autozone.

The part itself is about $60, IIRC.

If the boot is torn, it'll start to affect the halfshaft pretty quickly. As the grease drips out, and there's nothing to lubricate the halfshaft, heat will build up and will cause additional friction. Eventually, something is either going to seize or snap.

If you're not going to do it yourself, I'd just have the dealer do it. Is it a FoMoCo dealership?

JR
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I called Firestone and they said $275....I thought this was WACK.

What you think?



You can go pretty much anywhere to get it done, but you can also do it yourself. The halfshaft can be replaced in less than an hour if you've got the right tools, which you can rent from Autozone.

The part itself is about $60, IIRC.

If the boot is torn, it'll start to affect the halfshaft pretty quickly. As the grease drips out, and there's nothing to lubricate the halfshaft, heat will build up and will cause additional friction. Eventually, something is either going to seize or snap.

If you're not going to do it yourself, I'd just have the dealer do it. Is it a FoMoCo dealership?

JR
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It is a relatively involved process, as you have to tear apart a chunk of the front suspension, so I would say that $275 isn't a bad price. It'd be much cheaper to do it yourself, obviously.

Short version of the instructions:
Remove wheel
Remove caliper, pads, rotor
Remove ball joint retaining nut and use pittman arm puller to pop ball joint out of lower control arm
Remove 30mm nut from halfshaft
Attach appropriate puller to wheel hub
Tighten puller stud to push halfshaft out of hub
Use either a halftshaft puller or long pry bar to pop halfshaft out of transmission housing
Attach new circlip to new halfshaft (should be included)
Seat halfshaft in transmission housing
Insert halfshaft stub into wheel hub
Attach new washer and retaining nut to wheel hub and torque
Insert ball joint stud into lower control arm and attach retaining nut, then torque
Replace rotors, pads, calipers, wheel

JR
 

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I dont think $2600 is cheap for a 111K Tauri.

I bought mine 01 SE, 58K, Single owner, mint condition, from Ford Dealer, with all service records for $4K, with 3 months B-to-B warranty.

Even i m looking for buying warranty, if you find some good warranty deal, kindly keep posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So they said it is BARELY starting to leak out.

Sounds like I should just do a boot?

You got a deal.

The price I paid was cheapest I could find in the area.
KBB Retail for my car is $5,050

I did find some good warranty deals:

Deluxe Coverage
$100.00 Deductible Per Repair Visit
1 Year/12,000 Additional Miles- $1,104.00
2 Year/24,000 Additional Miles- $1,272.00

Lower deductibles are also available:
For $50.00 Deductible- Add $100.00
For $0.00 Deductible- Add $250.00

All Plans include:
* Towing
* Rental
* Trip Interruption Protection
* Transferability



Great Advantage Coverage
$0.00 Deductible
3 Year/Unlimited Additional Miles- $1,179.00
5 Year/150,000 Additional Miles- $1,249.00
7 Year/100,000 Additional Miles- $1,229.00


Extend-A-Car/Clear Advantage Coverage
$0.00 Deductible
1 Year/ 15,000 Additional Miles- $ 489.00
3 Year/ 50,000 Additional Miles- $ 589.00
3 Year/Unlimited Additional Miles- $ 699.00
5 Year/150,000 Additional Miles- $ 749.00
7 Year/100,000 Additional Miles- $ 729.00




First covers everything from power door locks to ball joints to RKE System, second covers most repairs (water pump, exc), and third is powertrain.






I dont think $2600 is cheap for a 111K Tauri.

I bought mine 01 SE, 58K, Single owner, mint condition, from Ford Dealer, with all service records for $4K, with 3 months B-to-B warranty.

Even i m looking for buying warranty, if you find some good warranty deal, kindly keep posted.
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If a CV boot is split, it doesn't just leak out or drip out, it gets thrown out, all over the inner fender.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
***UPDATE***

Im dropping it off first thing in the morning to a garage for agreed price of $265 to do the boot AND Shaft.

one more question, would this issue cause any noise when going over bumps?
 

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If the balljoint with the leaking boot is damaged, yes.
 

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He's not talking about the balljoint's boot, he's talking about the boot on the halfshaft, and yes, if there is no fluid in the joint, it'll start to make nasty clicking sounds.

To the OP, they won't replace the boot, they'll just stick a remanufactured halfshaft in there, that'll have new seals, new bearings, etc. If they're just replacing the boot itself, you should run like ###### hell, because the halfshaft has already been damaged.

JR
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Godspunk,

Indeed you are correct. I just got back from the shop and had the entire Halfshaft done....4 hours later.

***IMPORTANT NOTICE REGARDING HALF SHAFTS ON FLEX FUEL TAURUSES***
They are a different part!!!! Who would know? I can see engine parts being different for a Flex Fuel Taurus, but suspension parts? Took the shop the 3rd part in to figure this out. Crazy, anyway, all is well.

I hate taking my car to the shop though. Now it seems like my brakes are going.....I think it is all physlogical though.


Thank you everyone for all your input!



He's not talking about the balljoint's boot, he's talking about the boot on the halfshaft, and yes, if there is no fluid in the joint, it'll start to make nasty clicking sounds.

To the OP, they won't replace the boot, they'll just stick a remanufactured halfshaft in there, that'll have new seals, new bearings, etc. If they're just replacing the boot itself, you should run like ###### hell, because the halfshaft has already been damaged.

JR
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