Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Apologies that this is a bit long, I don't want to leave out something that might be directly relevant...

94 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L 144K miles – on short errand, car suddenly began making a rattling/knocking sound whenever I was on the gas, but either stopped or was quiet enough that I couldn’t hear it when off the gas and just coasting. The noise was almost as if the car was a diesel rather than gas… that’s the best I know how to describe it. I was only a mile or so from home and decided to try to make it home. No engine warning lights were on, temp was totally normal too (mid range/12 o'clock on gauge). Got to a spot where I had to stop briefly before turning, and engine almost died but gave it gas and it kept running. Got a block further, and then the engine just cut out.

I let it sit over night. Checked the oil on the dipstick and it looked normal (no metal flakes/chips in it, or anything else, normal color tho it needs changing). Started car just fine, and it sounded NORMAL, not the knocking/rattling/diesel sound. Drove it the block home.

Once home, discovered I’d had huge coolant loss – added over 2 gallons of water (engine supposedly takes 11 qts). I assume engine overheated causing the noise and then the engine dying – but do NOT understand why I never got any warning lights and the temperature gauge read normal?

Anyone know how that could happen or have thoughts on that?

Anyhow – the water pump was leaking from the weep hole, so I replaced it. STILL had large coolant leak. Let a shop next door find the leak and they pressure tested to find it (unnecessary, leaked as soon as engine was on and for a few minutes after off). Anyhow, discovered that it was from the ‘heater tube assembly’ that feeds the heater core. Heater core had gone bad several years ago and I’d just bypassed it because replacement would take removing entire dash & supposedly evacuating AC also… So I jury rigged hoses to go from the water pump bypass hose and bypass the entire set of tubing.

Whereupon I discovered that they overpressurized or radiator was about to go anyhow, because now I had a leaky radiator when I didn't before. Replaced the radiator. Ran car just a couple of minutes to check for leaks, no leaks. WHEW. Drained out a little water, and put in some of the prestone coolant cleaner – its the stuff that you run with for 3 to 6 hours and it cleans out corrosion from the system & block.

Then ran car for about 20 min with hood up, just still checking for any leaks and letting the cleaner get started… at first was surprised that it only got to mid-range temp wise when the thermostat tripped and for a few min it ran between less than mid-range temp to spang on mid-range (maybe 11 to 12 oclock), then it seemed to shift and go a bit warmer, from mid-range up to a little higher (12 to 1 oclock) but still nowhere near the top of the gauge or the red line area. Noticed, however, that there was some a little bit of smoke/steam coming from the engine compartment.

Then also noticed that the fluid in the radiator overflow container was bubbling/boiling – but have no idea if that was just normal filling as the engine heated up, or ??? It wasn't overflowing, but was bubbling/boiling (I've never looked into the overflow container when a vehicle was running at op. temps, so no idea what's normal or not).

Then suddenly got a NEW leak UNDER the car, a watery oil… from the passenger side of the vehicle sort of in line with the middle of the wheel.


Turned the car off. During all of this the car sounded fine. When it had cooled just a little, pulled the oil dipstick and now the oil looks a little like coffee with a little creme in it, sort of opaque dirty tan color… its not foamy looking like an emulsion however, but I’m assuming this means I’ve got water in the oil? That the engine started running a little hotter once exhaust gasses and/or oil got mixed into the water/coolant system?

Could the original episode have done serious damage, but somehow that didn’t appear until either the engine was at operating temps again and/or I had the coolant system fixed so it was pressurizing properly?

Do these symptoms peg the problem - and if so, what does it mean? Or are there multiple possibilities? Suggestions for how I can tell what the problem is or at least narrow it down?

If it is gasket/head/block problem, what are folks here experiences with some of the liquid additives that claim to be able to seal these sorts of problems like K&W Engine Block Sealer, Barr's (they've got several options I guess), Steel Seal, Thermagasket, ThermalWeld, etc? Do any of them work, and if so, is any one of them better than the others?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,066 Posts
Apologies that this is a bit long, I don't want to leave out something that might be directly relevant...

94 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L 144K miles – on short errand, car suddenly began making a rattling/knocking sound whenever I was on the gas, but either stopped or was quiet enough that I couldn’t hear it when off the gas and just coasting. The noise was almost as if the car was a diesel rather than gas… that’s the best I know how to describe it. I was only a mile or so from home and decided to try to make it home. No engine warning lights were on, temp was totally normal too (mid range/12 o'clock on gauge). Got to a spot where I had to stop briefly before turning, and engine almost died but gave it gas and it kept running. Got a block further, and then the engine just cut out.

I let it sit over night. Checked the oil on the dipstick and it looked normal (no metal flakes/chips in it, or anything else, normal color tho it needs changing). Started car just fine, and it sounded NORMAL, not the knocking/rattling/diesel sound. Drove it the block home.

Once home, discovered I’d had huge coolant loss – added over 2 gallons of water (engine supposedly takes 11 qts). I assume engine overheated causing the noise and then the engine dying – but do NOT understand why I never got any warning lights and the temperature gauge read normal?

Anyone know how that could happen or have thoughts on that?

Anyhow – the water pump was leaking from the weep hole, so I replaced it. STILL had large coolant leak. Let a shop next door find the leak and they pressure tested to find it (unnecessary, leaked as soon as engine was on and for a few minutes after off). Anyhow, discovered that it was from the ‘heater tube assembly’ that feeds the heater core. Heater core had gone bad several years ago and I’d just bypassed it because replacement would take removing entire dash & supposedly evacuating AC also… So I jury rigged hoses to go from the water pump bypass hose and bypass the entire set of tubing.

Whereupon I discovered that they overpressurized or radiator was about to go anyhow, because now I had a leaky radiator when I didn't before. Replaced the radiator. Ran car just a couple of minutes to check for leaks, no leaks. WHEW. Drained out a little water, and put in some of the prestone coolant cleaner – its the stuff that you run with for 3 to 6 hours and it cleans out corrosion from the system & block.

Then ran car for about 20 min with hood up, just still checking for any leaks and letting the cleaner get started… at first was surprised that it only got to mid-range temp wise when the thermostat tripped and for a few min it ran between less than mid-range temp to spang on mid-range (maybe 11 to 12 oclock), then it seemed to shift and go a bit warmer, from mid-range up to a little higher (12 to 1 oclock) but still nowhere near the top of the gauge or the red line area. Noticed, however, that there was some a little bit of smoke/steam coming from the engine compartment.

Then also noticed that the fluid in the radiator overflow container was bubbling/boiling – but have no idea if that was just normal filling as the engine heated up, or ??? It wasn't overflowing, but was bubbling/boiling (I've never looked into the overflow container when a vehicle was running at op. temps, so no idea what's normal or not).

Then suddenly got a NEW leak UNDER the car, a watery oil… from the passenger side of the vehicle sort of in line with the middle of the wheel.


Turned the car off. During all of this the car sounded fine. When it had cooled just a little, pulled the oil dipstick and now the oil looks a little like coffee with a little creme in it, sort of opaque dirty tan color… its not foamy looking like an emulsion however, but I’m assuming this means I’ve got water in the oil? That the engine started running a little hotter once exhaust gasses and/or oil got mixed into the water/coolant system?

Could the original episode have done serious damage, but somehow that didn’t appear until either the engine was at operating temps again and/or I had the coolant system fixed so it was pressurizing properly?

Do these symptoms peg the problem - and if so, what does it mean? Or are there multiple possibilities? Suggestions for how I can tell what the problem is or at least narrow it down?

If it is gasket/head/block problem, what are folks here experiences with some of the liquid additives that claim to be able to seal these sorts of problems like K&W Engine Block Sealer, Barr's (they've got several options I guess), Steel Seal, Thermagasket, ThermalWeld, etc? Do any of them work, and if so, is any one of them better than the others?

what i would do if i were you (if you really like the car) is just get another 3.0L and put it in. you have a cracked head or bad head gasket. and maybe damaged bearings to boot. I have a good 93 3.oL in my garage,
but i am in Nebraska.

bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Bob,

Its not so much that I like the car, as that finances have gotten horribly tight after a couple of spine surgeries... which made doing the water pump, bypassing heater core & replacing hoses, & replacing the radiator myself ungodly slow and painful and I hope to heck I haven't damaged the healing of the low back surgery I just had about 6 weeks ago.... but I had no choice.

I wish to heck it had occurred to me to run the vehicle for a bit with radiator cap off and garden hose inserted (to keep coolant level up) BEFORE fixing all the leaks to be sure there wasn't something more serious wrong with it - never occurred to me that it could run and sound fine for a few minutes, oil look fine, and yet something major like head gasket be blown only to show up after I fixed everything else and then ran at op temps for 10 or 20 minutes.... and engine still sounds fine, but I gather its obvious I've got serious problems.

Any ballpark on what it would cost to drop a rebuilt engine in? Or if I could even find one, a junkyard engine (and is there any way to tell on a junkyard engine what the mileage on it is and if it has any major problems?)? Is a junkyard engine even cheap enough to make the cost diff worth going that route?

Any chance one of those head gasket/block sealers might work?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,066 Posts
Hi Bob,

Its not so much that I like the car, as that finances have gotten horribly tight after a couple of spine surgeries... which made doing the water pump, bypassing heater core & replacing hoses, & replacing the radiator myself ungodly slow and painful and I hope to heck I haven't damaged the healing of the low back surgery I just had about 6 weeks ago.... but I had no choice.

I wish to heck it had occurred to me to run the vehicle for a bit with radiator cap off and garden hose inserted (to keep coolant level up) BEFORE fixing all the leaks to be sure there wasn't something more serious wrong with it - never occurred to me that it could run and sound fine for a few minutes, oil look fine, and yet something major like head gasket be blown only to show up after I fixed everything else and then ran at op temps for 10 or 20 minutes.... and engine still sounds fine, but I gather its obvious I've got serious problems.

Any ballpark on what it would cost to drop a rebuilt engine in? Or if I could even find one, a junkyard engine (and is there any way to tell on a junkyard engine what the mileage on it is and if it has any major problems?)? Is a junkyard engine even cheap enough to make the cost diff worth going that route?

Any chance one of those head gasket/block sealers might work?
personally, i would NOT use one of the sealers. especially after a milkshake
in the oil.

It all comes down to your skill level and what tools you have. TO change
an engine, your going to need to drop the subframe, or do a cherry picker
from above. can you do that? a rebuilt is going to cost WAY more than
the car is worth, You would be better off just getter another car. a used
3.0L can be had for 100 to 500. If you have the chops to put it in, that's
the way i would go if i fixed it at all.

The gaskets are a dicey thing. First you will need a head gasket set with head bolts. Then, have the heads taken down to a machine shop and
have them gone through. After you add up all the cost there, it may
not be worth it. There may be some bearing damage from anti freeze in the oil. or, you could have a cracked head and need a replacement. You won't now until you take them off and the machine shop gets a look at them.

If you cannot get a used engine put in cheap, i would be looking for another car. look on craigs list for used engines or post an add that you want to buy one. There are tons of Taurus that get junked for bad trannies that have good engines.

Like i said, i have one for $150


bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
personally, i would NOT use one of the sealers. especially after a milkshake
in the oil.

It all comes down to your skill level and what tools you have. TO change
an engine, your going to need to drop the subframe, or do a cherry picker
from above. can you do that? a rebuilt is going to cost WAY more than
the car is worth, You would be better off just getter another car. a used
3.0L can be had for 100 to 500. If you have the chops to put it in, that's
the way i would go if i fixed it at all.

The gaskets are a dicey thing. First you will need a head gasket set with head bolts. Then, have the heads taken down to a machine shop and
have them gone through. After you add up all the cost there, it may
not be worth it. There may be some bearing damage from anti freeze in the oil. or, you could have a cracked head and need a replacement. You won't now until you take them off and the machine shop gets a look at them.

If you cannot get a used engine put in cheap, i would be looking for another car. look on craigs list for used engines or post an add that you want to buy one. There are tons of Taurus that get junked for bad trannies that have good engines.

Like i said, i have one for $150


bob
Hi Bob,
Well, I wish you and your engine were here in S. Nevada! <g> Actually, no way I can try dropping an engine in myself - don't have the equipment, don't have anything to drive in the meantime, and not really supposed to be doing mechanical work on this property anyhow, although over the years I've done stuff like water pump, radiator, etc, even rebuilt carb on a pick-up I had... but entire engines? <VBG>

I think even trying the head gaskets myself is a no-starter - both because of the problems I may encounter once in there, but maybe more so because of possible problems I might run into even trying to get exhaust manifold off myself, etc. If I had a second running vehicle and so on, might be tempted to try it for grins over time, but .....

For whatever its worth - there doesn't appear to be any oil in the coolant system, just water from the coolant system in the oil system. Also - because I'd just done water pump & radiator etc., there isn't any anti-freeze in the coolant system, just water and some of that prestone coolant cleaner stuff.... I gather that even just sitting the antifreeze can damage lower engine, but if its just water mixed in the oil, is that as big a problem? I've NO idea what the coolant cleaner being mixed in there too implies in this regard.

Here's the other issue that's come up - it occurred to me that since it IS just water, no anti-freeze, is it possible that the bubbling/boiling in the overflow container might simply be because the water got hot enough to boil once not under pressure? In other words, maybe there arn't exhaust gas in the coolant system? I KNOW that there wasn't any billowing white smoke from exhaust pipe, that I would have noticed. IF it was just a small amount, it was a breezy day, I didn't know to look for that at the time either, so if it could be just a small amount I could have missed it. I'm going to see if I can't find some of the litmus paper that checks for gasses in the coolant (I'm assuming that'd be a good bit cheaper than the liquid test kit...).

Will also check for tailpipe smoke - I gather that should be visible even when car is still cold/not at op temps, correct? Will also pull plugs (probably Tues, when fewer people are around) and see what they look like.

I ran across this bit on another site:
We are talking V8 chevy here.. The intake sits in center of engine, above the lifter valley which is where the top end oil (heads) drains down into, then drains into crankcase.

Yes an intake gasket leak can cause your probs. You have water ports on all 4 corners of heads.. If intake gasket is leaking at the ends then coolant could run into valley easy, and mix with your oil.

I hate being so ignorant, but is the design similar enough that this could be my problem with my 94 3.0L Taurus? If so, how do I differentiate between IM gasket leak v hg/block/head? I'm assuming that should it turn out I do have exhaust gasses in coolant system, that rules out Intake Manifold seal & its far worse problem - but if it turns out I DON'T have exhaust gasses in the coolant?

Also, perhaps really ignorance Q of the month here - but one of the bolts on the water pump has to have sealant on it. I'm pretty sure I put sealant on the right one - but if I accidentally put it on the wrong one, that wouldn't allow water to get into the oil system, would it? Wouldn't that just allow possible water leak externally out of that bolt hole?

On used engines - I did take your advice last night and take a look on craigslist here locally.... There is someone parting out a 2000 Taurus w/ 87K miles on supposedly good engine (bad tranny) here in town, but no idea what they'd sell me the engine for - or what a mechanic would charge me to swap the engines... even if I could get used engine relatively cheaply, why am I suspecting that labor alone would still be huge? Ballpark idea of what a shop that does engines might charge me? AND, how do I even determine just what year engines would even work to swap into my car?

Thanks again for your help with all these questions!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,066 Posts
As far as a swap goes, the easiest swap is the one with all the same
accessories on the engine. the basic 3.0L will swap many years, but
things changed. around 95/96 they went to the coil pack and got
rid of the distributor. You can use a newer motor, but you would have
to swap the distributor in., there was a cam sensor in the newer motors too.
And if its too new, it had the dual plane intake, so the intakes would have to
be completely swapped. the more things that have to be swapped,
the more chances of trouble latter making it work and the more money.

A good backyard on the side would probably do the swap for $300 to $500
+ parts. Finding that guy is another matter. Try Craigs list. Forget the Ford dealer.
A normal shop would probably be 800/1200 + parts.

if you want to totally roll the dice cheapo, pull the heads off and just put head gaskets on it.
Clean the surfaces yourself. You should be in under $200 if you have the tools to do it.
Maybe you will be lucky, maybe not.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Let me run this past you... when I replaced the water pump, its got two different sets of bolts. A smaller shorter set of 5 or 6, that according to chilton's bolt onto front engine cover. Then a bigger longer set of 5 or 6 that bolt thru the front engine cover into the block.

there's a big bold warning that one of those longer bolts going thru front engine cover into block has to have pipe sealer with teflon on it before being put in place. Of course, it doesn't say why or what happens if you goof... Anyhow, I used blue rtv silicon on it, which I'm now seriously wondering if that wasn't the wrong stuff to use, because when I'd asked shop mechanic if it was ok to use that on oil cooler lines (chilton's said use same pipe sealer tehre as it had for that water pump bolt), they'd said no way, wrong stuff, won't work.

So, what I'm wondering - is it possible that one bolt could go thru front engine cover in such a way that if it wasn't sealed correctly, it could result in the water I'm seeing on the oil dipstick/in the oil system?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
just tried to crawl under vehicle and see where the new external leak of oil/water mix (that started same time water appeared on oil dipstick, so I'm assuming same cause/problem for both) is dripping down/along the casing where the crankshaft pully shaft goes into that housing/casing... I can't see where it goes from there to be sure that's really the leak, but then its coming off something that's below that (part of the exhaust system?)

its gawdawfully difficult to get under the vehicle the frame is so low, can only do so with my head turned totally sideways, makes it difficult to see upwards.

And I feel stupid, but I'm having real trouble telling where the heads meet the block. Easy to see where valve cover ends, but then exhaust manifolds are there and ... I'd wanted to try to look around the edges of the head/block join for any obvious leaks assuming that would help tell for sure if this is blown head gasket, but...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,306 Posts
Coolant bubbling usually means head problems. Sounds like it leaked coolant and you cracked/warped a head in doing so.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Correct me if I'm wrong - but it was 104 degrees out (S. Nevada), and I had pure water, no antifreeze, in the system.... so if vehicle just topped off with fluids cold, then run up to op temps with radiator cap on - wouldn't it push some fluid into the water reservior tank, and while at temp that way that fluid would be going from pressurized system to atmospheric, and if above 212, it'd bubble/boil, right? Isn't the coolant temp under pressure at operating temp above 212?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Assuming engine is toast, I might as well try one of the sealers.

Figured I ought to get that prestone coolant cleaner out first, and I'd drained the radiator yesterday, so I filled the radiator. Started the car - started fine, sounds fine. ZERO visible smoke from the exhaust, both when cold and when at op temp.

while cold, no bubbles in the water in the radiator neck. Opened petc*ck to drain radiator, and ran vehicle. As it warmed of course it started pushing some water out of the neck, once it was at op temp, I couldn't tell if the occasional bubble I saw was from air working its way out of the system or what - there wasn't any continuous bubbling/boiling or anything that way tho. Ran it for a few min that way at op temp to let thermostat cycle and hopefully get more of the coolant cleaner out. Temp didn't get above mid range normal, but then I was running low stream of water into radiator to make up for the drainage out of the petc*ck. Shut car off and letting rad finish draining & pavement dry a little before crawling under to shut petc*ck again. Its frying hot out here right now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, gentlemen, keep your fingers crossed for me. I ran the "Blue Devil" head gasket/block sealer today, after taking thermostat out yesterday (has to be free flowing system). Directions are to idle the car with it in and radiator cap on for at least 50 min. I ran it for about 70 to 80. No overheating, didn't push fluid back into the overflow tank. At about 40 to 45 min in, it DID seem to seal up that external oily water leak... no more smoking under the hood from where it was dripping on something hot enough to have it smoke/steam & no more running on the ground.

After I'd run it, I took it to get the oil changed. Drove it a few miles after that, maybe 2 to 4... even with AC on its running at the bottom end of normal range for temp & that's with no antifreeze, just the water & blue devil stuff in it & still no thermostat.

Anyhow, checked the oil once home, and it looks absolutely fine. Knock on wood!

Directions say its compatible with antifreeze and can be left in, so in the next few days I've got to drain a little out, and add antifreeze and put a new thermostat in. Debating waiting a few days before adding antifreeze just to be sure its not getting into the oil system anymore vs. going ahead and putting it in.

God I hope to heck this stuff has actually fixed it and it holds for awhile. I'll post back in awhile and let you know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
313 Posts
Don't mix it unless they tell you you absolutely can, and maybe even call the 800 number to be very sure. I had a horribly warped head on my vulcan and repaired it using K & W Nanotechnology permanent Head Gasket & Block Repair. I followed the directions EXACTLY. I called the 800 number and they told me I could run it longer than instructions, so I did that (drove around for a week or two before draining). The repair worked, and have been driving it for almost a year now. I drive it hard all over town, and also drive on a weekly round trip of 380 miles (3 hours non-stop at around 75mph). I have had zero coolant loss. Your mileage may vary, but it definitely worked for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,066 Posts
Don't mix it unless they tell you you absolutely can, and maybe even call the 800 number to be very sure. I had a horribly warped head on my vulcan and repaired it using K & W Nanotechnology permanent Head Gasket & Block Repair. I followed the directions EXACTLY. I called the 800 number and they told me I could run it longer than instructions, so I did that (drove around for a week or two before draining). The repair worked, and have been driving it for almost a year now. I drive it hard all over town, and also drive on a weekly round trip of 380 miles (3 hours non-stop at around 75mph). I have had zero coolant loss. Your mileage may vary, but it definitely worked for me.

I have never been a big fan of the sealers. I am curious on your long term
observations on its use. Have you noticed it running hotter or any other
abnormal behavior? I was always suspicious of this gunk clogging up the
cooling passages more than some vulcans already are. Especially since
the guy just posted the pictures of the intake cooling passages clogged
up on his. Mine has always run a little hotter than i thought it should,
and i wondered if mine might have some hardening of the arteries.
I flushed mine out and put in new coolant awhile back, but i did not do
the chemical flush. Mine has been stable, but when its hot out, it runs
right at the top of the scale unless i have the air on and the fans are
on high non stop

bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hi Saerandy,

Just as Bob notes, I'm also VERY interested in hearing feedback from folks who've used one of these sealants -- especially how long its lasted, any performance issues, etc. So I sure appreciate your post and anything else you care to add!

As to the antifreeze - believe me, I'm nervous about this whole thing too! I actually spoke to the Blue Devil tech support guy several times yesterday. He told me that after you run it, and that the 50 min idle per directions ought to be sufficient, running it a bit longer or even leaving it in is probably even better. Its also supposedly fine to leave it in with antifreeze. The bottle says that also 'compatible with most antifreeze types' or something along those lines.... but it also says to drain the system so you can replace the thermostat then refill with proper antifreeze mix...

In speaking with the tech, he thought it'd be a good idea to run for a few days or even a week or two with just the water & Blue Devil (BD) in it - give it every chance to seal any nooks and crannies that driving & temp changes etc might try to pop up... then drain out just enough to do the thermostat & add sufficient antifreeze, leaving most of the BD in.

I don't know how or why some 'liquid glass' versions are totally incompatible with antifreeze, while others supposedly are completely compatible. BD seems to be in the middle, flush till runs clear before using it, then fine to add antifreeze after its been run, leaving the BD in if you want to. Heck if I know which way would be the best end result.

Want antifreeze for water pump lube (worries me running a few days or even a few weeks without anything that way, tech says its not long enough to cause any damage to the pump), would like to leave the BD in so it can work on anything new that tries to develop over time - but scared it might have some negative reaction with the antifreeze even tho the BD folks say its fine. Sigh.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have never been a big fan of the sealers. I am curious on your long term
observations on its use. Have you noticed it running hotter or any other
abnormal behavior? I was always suspicious of this gunk clogging up the
cooling passages more than some vulcans already are. Especially since
the guy just posted the pictures of the intake cooling passages clogged
up on his. Mine has always run a little hotter than i thought it should,
and i wondered if mine might have some hardening of the arteries.
I flushed mine out and put in new coolant awhile back, but i did not do
the chemical flush. Mine has been stable, but when its hot out, it runs
right at the top of the scale unless i have the air on and the fans are
on high non stop

bob
Hi Bob,

Where are the photos of the clogged cooling passages? I'd like to see those too. Does it say which sealant he used? Seems that on most of them you have to flush system repeatedly before use to get every smidge of antifreeze out so it doesn't interact with the sealant. I wonder if that one still had some antifreeze or trace left in that caused the problem.

So you DID run a sealer in yours? Which one did you use? Did you test for exhaust gasses in the coolant after you were finished running it? I haven't, and have to admit that so long as coolant levels stay steady, and oil looks good, and temp while I'm driving stays good, I probably won't, just because of the added expense.

Meanwhile, in talking to the BD tech I told him that a number of years ago my heater core had broken thru, was steaming coolant thru the vents into the vehicle. Cost utterly outrageous & prohibitive on trying to replace in this vehicle, so I tried one of the small bar's radiator leak stop (silver flakes in liquid) stuff at least once, maybe twice, don't recall for sure... no joy, if anything it got worse, so I just bypassed it with hose... its been sitting there with its intake & outake tubes just open to the air ever since.

Talking to the BD tech, I said something like 'BD probably wouldn't be able to fix that either, would it, after several years this way?" He actually seemed to think it probably could. Said I might wind up with particles in the car that had to be vacuumed out, but that he didn't think it'd hurt upholstery or plastic etc.... I'm highly skeptical and seriously doubt I'll try it, tho I gotta say since the stuff is in the system anyhow, its half tempting to reconnect hoses to the heater core and see. I suppose best I could do would be to stuff rags into the vents to try to keep the steam/BD mix off everything as much as possible... my luck recently, it'd give way catastrophically and I'd have a real mess on my hands. Tech was quite nice, and yet there was something about his responses that makes me wonder just how much he really knows about what this stuff really can and can't do, or if it'd hurt anything in the car interior, etc...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
As to how mine seems today - recall I just ran it yesterday, then drove to get oil changed (1/2 mi to mi down the road) - and it idled there for a bit as they were waiting to finish the car in front of me, then I drove it maybe another 3 to 6 miles.

Got my nerve up today and took it on the interstate. Ran for a total of roughly 25 min, about 20 miles, mostly interstate at 65 to 75 mph 10 miles out, then exit, cross over, 10 miles back... 98 or 99 degrees out at the time roughly.

still running with only water with the blue devil (liquid glass) sealant in it, and no thermostat. The hottest it got was a smidge above mid-range normal so it was on the letter "m" in the work "normal" that's arced across the 3/4's of the gauge with 12 oclock of course right between the "r" & the "m". That was only briefly when I came off interstate and really slowed down to exit both to turn back, then to get home. The first half of the trip it stayed low normal range. Last half it was either a smidge below dead on mid range, or on midrange.

Got home, and smelled just a touch of the burned smell - I'm pretty certain it was just the remnants of the earlier leak fluid giving off the odor because the engine was hot. Good news is NO visible leak or drip underneath car, NO smoke/steam from engine compartment, and best of all, pulled oil dipstick right away and oil still quite clean and very good looking, zero sign of water in it. Coolant level still totally normal, no obvious change in the level in the overflow tank. I'm still not trusting it.

I'll start feeling more comfortable about this when/if its held for some time - still feeling a bit panicky that it could dump me on the side of the road or have some catastrophic failure or something that way....

But initial indications sure seem good to me... still knocking on wood, fear jinxing it, fingers crossed, and geeze, I'm not even superstitious!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,066 Posts
Hi Bob,

Where are the photos of the clogged cooling passages? I'd like to see those too. Does it say which sealant he used? Seems that on most of them you have to flush system repeatedly before use to get every smidge of antifreeze out so it doesn't interact with the sealant. I wonder if that one still had some antifreeze or trace left in that caused the problem.

So you DID run a sealer in yours? Which one did you use? Did you test for exhaust gasses in the coolant after you were finished running it? I haven't, and have to admit that so long as coolant levels stay steady, and oil looks good, and temp while I'm driving stays good, I probably won't, just because of the added expense.

Meanwhile, in talking to the BD tech I told him that a number of years ago my heater core had broken thru, was steaming coolant thru the vents into the vehicle. Cost utterly outrageous & prohibitive on trying to replace in this vehicle, so I tried one of the small bar's radiator leak stop (silver flakes in liquid) stuff at least once, maybe twice, don't recall for sure... no joy, if anything it got worse, so I just bypassed it with hose... its been sitting there with its intake & outake tubes just open to the air ever since.

Talking to the BD tech, I said something like 'BD probably wouldn't be able to fix that either, would it, after several years this way?" He actually seemed to think it probably could. Said I might wind up with particles in the car that had to be vacuumed out, but that he didn't think it'd hurt upholstery or plastic etc.... I'm highly skeptical and seriously doubt I'll try it, tho I gotta say since the stuff is in the system anyhow, its half tempting to reconnect hoses to the heater core and see. I suppose best I could do would be to stuff rags into the vents to try to keep the steam/BD mix off everything as much as possible... my luck recently, it'd give way catastrophically and I'd have a real mess on my hands. Tech was quite nice, and yet there was something about his responses that makes me wonder just how much he really knows about what this stuff really can and can't do, or if it'd hurt anything in the car interior, etc...
The photos where NOT of sealer use, just normal vulcan rust in the
cooling system issues.

http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-...ect-your-intake-manifold-gasket-see-pics.html


I changed the motor in mine after i bought it with a failed head gasket.
Mine ran hot for various reasons. I never used sealer in it. But i did change
the water pump,thermostat, radiator, degass tank, heater core bypass
hoses. It quit puking after all that. But it still runs warm for my tastes.

bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The photos where NOT of sealer use, just normal vulcan rust in the
cooling system issues.

http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-...ect-your-intake-manifold-gasket-see-pics.html


I changed the motor in mine after i bought it with a failed head gasket.
Mine ran hot for various reasons. I never used sealer in it. But i did change
the water pump,thermostat, radiator, degass tank, heater core bypass
hoses. It quit puking after all that. But it still runs warm for my tastes.

bob
I see. THANK you for the link to those photos - very interesting! I'd hate to see what mine probably looks like inside.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
313 Posts
The engine did not run any hotter than normal, and while I drove carefully (like Anonymouse) for several weeks just to be careful, I eventually forgot about it and just got back to my normal driving habits. The K&N stuff definitely reacts with antifreeze, and I think that's a good thing. Once it's in all the passages it needs to be in and the 'glass' has formed, a good rinse probably ensures the passages don't get blocked. I think this may be a case where the advances in technology are probably a good thing. On the K&N side, the tech told me I could drive it for weeks too to be sure it got everywhere it needed to be. The way I was told it works is it needs to find a place to seep out to react, so just leaving it in the engine won't be a problem. I will say though that the car went from gulping a gallon of antifreeze a day to not having to add a drop in almost a year.

One thing I should mention too is that I did the compression check and found one cylinder that was worse than the others, so per the directions I pulled the plug and idled it with the stuff in it per the bottle. After that I put the plug back in and drove around, etc before flushing and refilling.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top