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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay so i just noticed that my blower only blows air on the HIGH setting, it will not blow ANY air on low, 2 or 3 position, only on the 4th "HIGH" setting.

Does the whole dash unit need to be replaced and what fuse should i check to see if thats the issue?

Could it be something else?

If i have to replace the OEM HVAC setup would it be cheaper to get a aftermarket unit that will accept a CD Player or just get a junkyard radio/hvac setup?
 

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Looks like blower resistor assembly has to be replaced. In G2 Tauruses, it was easily accessible through glove compartment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I would like to buy the part to fix it as soon as someone can confirm this is the issue, thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Anyone have a diagram for the fuse i should check before i purchase this part?

Also does this part fail-safe into high mode only like mine is? So if i DON'T replace it can i still use HIGH forever like i am now?
 

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It does failsafe into high only, but why would you want only high for the rest of the car's life. The ac in mine will freeze your manhood off even on the LOWEST ac setting, so why would you want it on arctic frost high all the time?
 

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The problem is not a blown fuse, it is the blower resistor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It does failsafe into high only, but why would you want only high for the rest of the car's life. The ac in mine will freeze your manhood off even on the LOWEST ac setting, so why would you want it on arctic frost high all the time?
High is better than nothing. I use it on high most of the time. My A/C gets to about 39F at full max a/c after its been churning on the interstate for awhile. Usually on a really hot day it has trouble staying in the high 40s F range.

I plan on changing the part but finding time to do this and waiting for the part are my biggest concerns.

Also knowing that its a $20 part and not a $200+ part or something crazy is a deciding factor. If it was the difference between spending $200 or having only high blower settings i would probably keep my hard earned money.

Should i wait for Rockauto to ship a Motorcraft part or is this something i can trust Duralast to do? Its the same price $19 shipped for Motorcraft at Rockauto or $19 for Duralast picked up at Autozone?
 

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Cant speak for the Ford Duralast resistors, but I recently replaced the blower resistor in my Grand Prix GT with a Duralast, and it looked EXACTLY like the original GM one, right down to the coating colors on the resistor assy. It has been working fine since the start of summer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well i gota Duralast part since its got a lifetime warranty anyways.

Will update when i get it put on if that fixes it, which it should.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well i actually looked the part over and the Duralast part IS a Motorcraft part. They just put it in their box and call it a day.

Now i gota make a new thread about the harness being burnt.
 

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Instead of starting a new thread, I thought I would continue this one. I have a similar problem on my 2002 SES where I have been driving around for last 2 weeks with fan only working on HIGH setting. Then last friday it completely died. It ran very week as it was dieing for a couple minutes and then it would not turn on again.

Today I picked up a replacement blower motor and resister. I checked the relays and fuses and didn't see any issues there. I put in the new blower motor and now fan works again on HIGH only. I tried the new and old resister packs and neither restore the fan settings of 1,2 or 3.

I also put a volt meter on the blower power connector and it only shows a voltage on HIGH. it shows no voltage on fan settings 1, 2, or 3 with the new resister pack.

Any suggestions on what to go after next?
 
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