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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Blower Motor Resistor Harness melted, how to replace? (Repaired!)

So i went to replace my blower motor resistor and the plug coming off the harness that actually plugs into the blower motor resistor was fried and melted into the old part.

How can i replace the harness now? I can't find the part online, do i HAVE to pull one from a junkyard Taurus and snip the wires then do the electrical tape + wire nuts?




The part itself was a little rusty but i am guessing this is the cause of the failure to the blower motor resistor and not just the part failing itself. Also the Duralast part IS a Motorcraft part. So they must get them from Ford since its such a unique part.





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Update 9-12-10



I have soldered on a "new" piece from a junkyard pull, it works great again.
 

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You're going to have to snip a harness from the junkyard. However, this connection MUST be soldered. Wire nuts will just work loose and the poor connection will cause the wirenuts and part of the harness to melt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You're going to have to snip a harness from the junkyard. However, this connection MUST be soldered. Wire nuts will just work loose and the poor connection will cause the wirenuts and part of the harness to melt.
Thats fine i can solder, now just to find a part
 

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This happened to my 1993 F-150. I just took the plug and about a foot of wiring off of a similar year Taurus and soldered the wires. Also, use heat shrink on the joints. In my opinion, electrical tape should only be used to tape up harnesses, not used to cover splices.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well i don't have a heat gun, so i don't know if i can spring for that.

I will have to see if i can find one before i start looking at other options.
 

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A match or lighter also works to shrink it if you are careful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Okay so a bic if i can't get a heatgun but i DO have a hair dryer that i can borrow will that work, its like 1800 watts.

Also can you guys recommend a small pack of heat shrink material that isn't expensive?
 

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Radio Shack should have small packs of heat shrink tubing for a few $$. Most hair dryers dont get hot enough for heat shrink tubing. Real heat guns get hot enough to start wood on fire and melt solder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Okay i guess i will have to do with a lighter then, because i am not buying a heat gun for this 1 job.
 

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Heat shrink isn't expensive. Also heat guns can start at about $20 on sale. I paid $19.99+tax for mine in a car with different scrapers and tips to direct airflow. It was regular 69.99. Cheap light duty heat guns might run you $25 if that. If you still don't want a heat gun as others mentioned a lighter will definitely do the trick. Just watch how close you are and keep the flame moving.


Not that this is important, GM had an issue for the exact same problem. It was mainly in the truck line up. Resistor assembly and harness would melt together because the terminals would rust some. Quality of new vehicles....lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well i snagged a perfect condition harness out of a wrecked Sable at the u-pull junkyard today.

While i was there i also nabbed a few other goodies.

-A new door for my center console that was broken
-An original owners manual for my year and model along with warranty information , and original leatherish blue zipped folder
- and replaced 3 of my broken dash vents

The dash vents all match i got the same colors and they move left to right just like they did when it was new.


I lost the cap to my a/c refill port on the high side and you would be surprised that everyone of them was missing off every sable/Taurus i came across.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I got my heat shrink, my lighter, soder and iron ready. Going to fix this tomorrow when i am flushing the cooling system with distilled water.

Will be anxious to see if it fixes my problem.
 

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What usually happens with burnt plugs is the contact gets worse and worse until the resistance builds up to produce the heat to burn up the plastic.

Make sure the male part of the contact is clean and there is a tight grip on it. May try putting a slight twist in the male connector with a needle nose so it is a good tight fit in the new plug.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well the resistor is a new Motorcraft part and the male part is a junkyard pull so i thought i was eliminating the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Cleaned the "new" junkyard part with electric parts cleaner and soldered it on my cars harness then heat shrinked it with my bic lighter.

It works great now, all my different blower levels worked as soon as i popped the part in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
That doesn't appear to be the right part

All 4 connectors are in the same position and facing the same way on the part i needed.

Either way the part i soldered in looked brand new to me and was pulled from a young wrecked sable so it should last as long as i need it to, especially since the new actual blower motor resistor isn't rusted.

Looking at the old blower motor resistor it appears the little bits of rust on it would have caused some resistance to burn the harness.
 
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