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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

My very first post is about my 1994 Sable 3.0 automatic, 94xxx on the clock.

I have oil in my radiator and water in my oil pan. Went to the mechanic. Actually, this happened on my way to the mechanic (I was going to have some adjustments made to the suspension).

Car came in reeeeealy hot and some brownish goo had already spewed out from the oil dipsick funnel. I guess it had some pressure in it that popped the dipstick out.

My mechanic told me this is a common problem when the gasket from one of the heads gives way.

So the obvious choice is to have the heads removed and machined, do a valve job on each, resurface for square installation, and put together again.

Sure, this sets me back about $500. But...

Even with this mess, he says he's experienced good (and permanent) results by pouring in a bottle of block sealer (Rislone is his choice brand). 20 bucks against 500 sounds like a good offer.

So my question to the forum is: Has anyone tried this before?

I'm wondering... Hope someone can give me some insight.

Have a great sunday.
 

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Those "bottle sealers" are nothing more than a temporary fix. Sometimes they do more damage than good by cloging other passages as well, like your radiator or heater core. I have also experianced these working for a short time and then you need to do it again. I would use one for a short time till you can come up with the $$ to have this done right. By the sounds of things, your blow out is more than a little leak, and that stuff may not work anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, it seems like the problem is bigger than expected.

I ended up buying a Bars Leaks Block sealer and after following directions to the letter, a volcano of goo came sputtering out the oil inlet.
 

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Well, it seems like the problem is bigger than expected.

I ended up buying a Bars Leaks Block sealer and after following directions to the letter, a volcano of goo came sputtering out the oil inlet.
Mechanic in a bottle never works....
 

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Well, it seems like the problem is bigger than expected.

I ended up buying a Bars Leaks Block sealer and after following directions to the letter, a volcano of goo came sputtering out the oil inlet.
Now after the head gaskets are replaced, your going to have to flush all that goo out of your heater core, recovery bottle, oil pan, and radiator. Possable you may need a whole new engine, after having goo comming out the oil inlet. Do the reverse heater core flush as stated in the topic finder. Never, never use stop leak, or block sealer, as it will just cause more problems.
 

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I couldn't agree more. Some stand by those stupid GM sealer tabs. GM developed their own private label sealer because they don't want to admit it, but many of their cars have head gasket leaks from the factory, but worse yet, their stupid Dexcool seeps right through the head itself. Yes, the metal they use is porous.

Their tabs don't fix the problem, but they do decrease the chance that GM will have to deal with it under warranty.

You are probably going to have to strip down the motor and rebuild it now, its not going to be as simple and some head work. You will probably be looking at between $1500 - $2500 to have a pro fix it now and flush it all, or you might now need to go for a engine swap.

I don't intend to grill anyone, but perhaps this should be used in a constructive way to someone else here. Don't use snake oil mechanic in a bottle. For the record, $500 for a head gasket repair is a bargain, if your mechanic offers that, take it.
 

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What about the Lucas Oil Power Steering Stop Leak additive? I've heard this works well.
The only time I have ever seen ANY of the oil based stop leaks work is when a aeal has dried out and shrunk, they help swell the old seal back up. BUT again just a temporary fix. More often when, say your power stearing leaks, its worse than just a seal, its a worn down shaft and the quick fix wont take care of that. These things are only a temp fix to help you get the car home if your lucky.
 

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The only time I have ever seen ANY of the oil based stop leaks work is when a aeal has dried out and shrunk, they help swell the old seal back up.
very true, but then again, a cap full of brake fluid will work too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for all the input!!!

I am gearing towards sending the car to the mechanic and have the head job done.

For about the same amount dough, I may be able to get another engine but I need more help here:

What is the top year I can aim to in order to end up with the newest engine that I could just snap into my car?

Thanks in advance...
 

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What is the top year I can aim to in order to end up with the newest engine that I could just snap into my car?
'07 block/heads, front cover, pan, and flex plate, swap all necessary sensors from old engine to new.
 
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