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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So yesterday the a/c was blowing very cold and it was almost 100 deg outside. I charged it 2 or 3 weeks ago and it has been fine. Well out of the blue today it will no longer get cold at all. It is a manual 3 switch. I read on a few posts that I should be able to hear the blend door move when going from warm to cool. I can feel the difference in the vent when going from warm to cool. But I cannot hear the blend door moving. Yet I can see the little arm moving. It seems to be moving very slow to me. Also noticed that when the A/C is on max the car seems to have a vac leak to the point that it will idle to almost 900 and going say 25mph it will stay at that with not press of gas pedal. Turn of A/C and the idle drops to normal and acceleration and idle is back to normal. I also noticed a few days ago that if I throttle hard say to climb a hill the a/c will seem to turn off and soon as I let up the A?C kicks right back on. I thought maybe this was by design to not loose power but seem there is a vac box or something like that on the firewall but I was unable to understand if my car had that o rnot cause it was an eatc system. The compressor is kicking on and staying running. RPMS rise and fall when it is kicked on adn I can hear it physcially kick on.

In case the video is hard to hear. When the vid starts the A/C is on heat and switches to cool then back to heat..

Video:
 

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Blend Door

No one has any opinions? :huh:
The door should take maybe 12 seconds to move from one end to the other. It appears yours does move. So that is unlikely an issue. That is the motor part of it. It is possible for the blend door itself to break. If you are not sure, you can remove the motor part and move it by hand.

I would check for vacuum dampers or vac lines first.

-chart-
 

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Suggestion

Alright, I know what I have to do now. Thanks :)
Suggestion based on experience.

Do not drop and lose those screws if you remove the blend door motor. :(

They just disappear. When putting them back, they are a type of thread for plastic. Best to turn they backwards until you feel them drop in the previous thread in the plastic, then run them in forward.

And to make them easier to start. I put a narrow strip of making tape across the hex, then put the socket over that. That keeps the screw in the socket for starting. Maybe someday someone will ownder why those screws on mine have the bright green masking tape on them.

I switched mine with automatic climate control with a junk yard unit and it too would not move. Then read here about self diag of the auto unit and I just needed to reset it and it has worked fine since. Battery went down and it lost it's mind.

Happy fixing.

-chart-

ps and one for philps screws. I did this for a sunroof such that if you dropped the screw, you would have to remove the glass to get it back. I did not loose one.
 

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90% have a vac problem, tip off going up hill. vac works with a pull to the vent and a pull in opposite directions from the ball looking shaped/reservoir. You have a plunger in between the two. Location under the hood. lines seperate from this pluger: one going to vents other to black ball. You have an abrasion that caused the leak. If you had a smoke detector you could send smoke in system through the vac line at plunger location. First try one side then other other. I don't have one either

You will have to look very, very closely for the abrasion in the lines--that is the culprit. not positive but 90%.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
90% have a vac problem, tip off going up hill. vac works with a pull to the vent and a pull in opposite directions from the ball looking shaped/reservoir. You have a plunger in between the two. Location under the hood. lines seperate from this pluger: one going to vents other to black ball. You have an abrasion that caused the leak. If you had a smoke detector you could send smoke in system through the vac line at plunger location. First try one side then other other. I don't have one either

You will have to look very, very closely for the abrasion in the lines--that is the culprit. not positive but 90%.

OK it is def a vac leak. I found the house off the right of the the TB (L plastic elbow) was leaking or so I thought. In the mits of spraying the carb cleaner around cause I can hear a faint sucking noise the A/C started getting cold. I am unsure if the stuff you are refering to is next to the reservior tank on pass side below it. Is that where your refering to? It looks as though 1 of the vac lines goes from the upper intake plenium into the firewall. Am I even remotely close to where your talking about?
 

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Wish I was there to help you look for leak. I found a video that hopefully will give explanation. Since you want to solve the problem then you will. The video also gives method by which to repair. Repair the section you believe you found. A small leak fixed can cause significant improvement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Wish I was there to help you look for leak. I found a video that hopefully will give explanation. Since you want to solve the problem then you will. The video also gives method by which to repair. Repair the section you believe you found. A small leak fixed can cause significant improvement.
Video? :huh::p
 
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