Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner
1 - 20 of 73 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I was browsing through Walmart and Meijer the other day and noticed Quaker State Ultimate, Mobil Super Synthetic, Meijer Full Synthetic, and Supertech Full Synthetic are all 20 bucks or less for 5 quart jugs. I'm thinking about making the switch from Mobil Super 5000 that I get for 12 bucks. I change the Mobil Super 5000 every 5000 miles along with a new Motorcraft filter. I'm looking to get 10k+ if I make the switch. Is it worth it er no?
 

·
Registered
1997 Ford Taurus 3.0L Wagon 226,362 miles
Joined
·
461 Posts
I think you're pushing it leaving oil in that engine (with that kind of mileage) for 10,000 miles. You're probably losing some oil in between oil changes. You need to be checking and changing the oil MORE often, not less. I'm surprised you're going 5000 miles in between changes. I've got a '97 GL Vulcan with almost 200,000 miles on it and I can go upwards of 4,000 miles, but I notice some missing oil when I let it go that long.

FWIW, I use SuperTech oil and filter. $13 for my oil changes. I change it every 3500 miles or so. I'm thinking of going sythetic with my 2011 Equinox, but the Taurus and '02 Impala (almost 150,000 miles) are sticking with the "dino" oil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I think you're pushing it leaving oil in that engine (with that kind of mileage) for 10,000 miles. You're probably losing some oil in between oil changes. You need to be checking and changing the oil MORE often, not less. I'm surprised you're going 5000 miles in between changes. I've got a '97 GL Vulcan with almost 200,000 miles on it and I can go upwards of 4,000 miles, but I notice some missing oil when I let it go that long.

FWIW, I use SuperTech oil and filter. $13 for my oil changes. I change it every 3500 miles or so. I'm thinking of going sythetic with my 2011 Equinox, but the Taurus and '02 Impala (almost 150,000 miles) are sticking with the "dino" oil.
I lose no oil between changes. Fluid level stays the same. The car has 260k on it (original motor and trans).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,392 Posts
A 5 qt jug of Mobil 1 Extended Life oil is only $28 at my local Walmart. Change the oil filter at 5k or 7k, depending on conditions, replace the .5 qt of oil that the filter holds. I always used Motorcraft filters (also at Walmart). As long as the engine and pcv system is still in good shape and running right, I see no reason why you can't have 10k intervals with M1 EP. When first changing over to extended life oils, the first two changes should be done at the usual 5k intervals, before going to 10k intervals (M1 tells you that on the bottle).
 

·
Registered
1997 Ford Taurus 3.0L Wagon 226,362 miles
Joined
·
461 Posts
You've MEASURED what you've put in and then MEASURED what came out 5000 miles later and it's the same amount?

Hard to believe at over 250,000 miles, but if true, then maybe you could justify synthetic at $4/quart and try changing it at 10,000.

But I'd be checking the dipstick FREQUENTLY after 5000 because there's gonna be a mileage number after which you WILL start to lose oil. You don't want to go the full 10,000 and then find only 3 quarts comes out during the oil change...
 

·
Registered
1997 Ford Taurus 3.0L Wagon 226,362 miles
Joined
·
461 Posts
It sounds like he's willing to pay DOUBLE for the synthetic oil, but he wants to do his oil changes HALF as often (so it's a wash, cost-wise). But I wouldn't bother. If he's changing oil every 5000 miles, that's probably only 3 times per YEAR ! What's the big deal ? He's not going to see any appreciable gain in mileage going to synthetic. Even 0W-30 claims only a 2% increase in mileage (1/2 mpg on a 25 mpg car like the Taurus).

Synthetic oil is just another racket. Once they get rid of "conventional" oil all together, they'll be telling us to change our oil more often and we'll be paying $7-$10/quart for synthetics. The end result will be bigger profits. Same old story in this country...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You've MEASURED what you've put in and then MEASURED what came out 5000 miles later and it's the same amount?

Hard to believe at over 250,000 miles, but if true, then maybe you could justify synthetic at $4/quart and try changing it at 10,000.

But I'd be checking the dipstick FREQUENTLY after 5000 because there's gonna be a mileage number after which you WILL start to lose oil. You don't want to go the full 10,000 and then find only 3 quarts comes out during the oil change...
I kid you not. The car uses NO oil. I put 5 quarts in and 5000 miles later 5 quarts came out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
248 Posts
Among the four synthetics the OP mentioned, I would go with Quaker State. Excellent oil, I use it in my 2005 Toyota Sienna and like it.

I put the cheapest brand name dino oil and Motorcraft filter on my Taurus. I routinely go 5k-7k miles between OCs.

My car has a Duratec. Seriously, both the Duratec and the Vulcan can take some abuse. The engine in your car is probably going to outlive most other components.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,283 Posts
The problem witht he 4 synthetics mentions is that only one of them are is a true synthetic. They others are all hydrocracked to a point, but by that standpoint all oil has hydrocracked components. All those oils fall under the group 3 class, which is basically a highly refined conventional oil. The Mobil1 is a group4 base stock, which means the base oil is a class of special molecules that are engineered. They are produced in a catalyzed process to procude molecules of a specific size and shape, with specific chain lengths. The reduce is a class of molecules called esters. These esters have some unique properties well suited to extended oil change intervals. For one, the act like detergents, reducing the need to add a detergent later, and increasing the amount of sludge they will dissolve and hold in solution. They are very resistant to breaking apart from oxidation, severe heat, or sheer stress. Most oils oxidize and that causes them to become acidic and self contaminating, reducing the lifespan of the oil.

I myself run Royal Purple. I ran it in my Aerostar for years, and am running it in my Taurus. I go about 20,000 miles between oil changes. I use Mobil1 extended life filters, which are good for about 10,000 miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The problem witht he 4 synthetics mentions is that only one of them are is a true synthetic. They others are all hydrocracked to a point, but by that standpoint all oil has hydrocracked components. All those oils fall under the group 3 class, which is basically a highly refined conventional oil. The Mobil1 is a group4 base stock, which means the base oil is a class of special molecules that are engineered. They are produced in a catalyzed process to procude molecules of a specific size and shape, with specific chain lengths. The reduce is a class of molecules called esters. These esters have some unique properties well suited to extended oil change intervals. For one, the act like detergents, reducing the need to add a detergent later, and increasing the amount of sludge they will dissolve and hold in solution. They are very resistant to breaking apart from oxidation, severe heat, or sheer stress. Most oils oxidize and that causes them to become acidic and self contaminating, reducing the lifespan of the oil.

I myself run Royal Purple. I ran it in my Aerostar for years, and am running it in my Taurus. I go about 20,000 miles between oil changes. I use Mobil1 extended life filters, which are good for about 10,000 miles.

I didn't mention Mobil 1 oil. I mentioned Mobil Super Synthetic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
I've heard many great things about Quaker State Ultimate. A buddy of mine runs Meijer Full Synthetic in his Plymouth and swears by it. I don't understand how a cheap conventional oil like Mobil Super 5000 can go 5000 miles easily but a Mobil Super Synthetic, Quaker State Ultimate, etc can't go 10k? It's a WASTE of money to buy a synthetic oil and change it every 4-5k miles. These cars are cheap, low maintenance, daily drivers.

Mobil Super 5000: $12.00
Motorcraft Oil Filter: $3.50

5000 Mile OCI: $15.50
10,000 Mile OCI: $31.00 (2 Filters)


Quaker State Ultimate: $19.00
Motorcraft Filter: $3.50

5000 Mile OCI: $11.25
10,000 Mile OCI: $22.50 (1 Filter)


Total Savings: $8.50
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,392 Posts
I didn't mention Mobil 1 oil. I mentioned Mobil Super Synthetic.
I think Mobil Super Synthetic is a group 3 synthetic, which is why it costs less. Treat as dino oil with change intervals.

Strange your Vulcan with all those miles dosen't use or leak oil, as every Ford model I owned always used or leaked at least half a qt between changes, and every GM I owned leaked oil like a Exxon rig.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I think Mobil Super Synthetic is a group 3 synthetic, which is why it costs less. Treat as dino oil with change intervals.

Strange your Vulcan with all those miles dosen't use or leak oil, as every Ford model I owned always used or leaked at least half a qt between changes, and every GM I owned leaked oil like a Exxon rig.
My Lincoln Town Car used to leak a half quart between changes even after replacing the gaskets. This Taurus has been the strangest car I've ever owned. Up until I took it over, it never had ANY routine maintenance.

Mobil 1 oil is group 3 correct?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,425 Posts
Mobil 1 is supposedly group 3. Debate is still on, but Mobil won't say clearly that is group 4.

The engines are supposed to burn/consume some oil (1/2-1 quart at 2-3000 miles) due to pumping effect of the piston rings. If yours doesn't, either your rings are seized and sooner the cylinder walls will see that, or you have gasoline seeping into crank case and keeping the level high.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/oil_consumption.htm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
285 Posts
As a Chevrolet :eek: (gasp!) tech, I can tell you the cheapest full synthetic oil right now is GM dexos 1. And it is formulated to go between 5,000-10,000 miles. We are selling it at just under $3 per quart. It has also tested better than Mobil 1, and is replacing it in Corvettes, CTSV, SS models, etc, that call for Mobil 1. Dexos 1 is a group 5 classification.

Dexos 1 comes standard and is required for all 2011 GM vehicles. Unfortunately it is only sold in bulk right now though.

GM dexos information center

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,090 Posts
I tend to think about cost of an oil in terms of the purchase price and the change interval. If you take the cost of the oil and filter and divide it by the number of thousands of miles you get in an interval, you can establish an apples to apples comparison.

I just did an oil change with Amsoil 5w30 full synthetic at $7.00 per quart. (5 quarts in order to get the 4.5 I need for the change and then a half left over for seepage/burning later on down the road.) I also bought the $17.00 EaO34 filter that is rated at 98.7% filtering efficiency down to 15 microns. It is also guaranteed for 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.

So, ($7*5)+$17 = $52 $52/25 = $2.08 per thousand miles cost if I go the full interval. I had been going 7k between oil changes (yes, adding a little in between changes) on the motorcraft filter and Mobil1 5w30 full synthetic. I would have tried a 10k interval if I hadn't seen that I makes more sense to do it this way.

I will run this interval out and post back here with a lab analysis. (Or a horror story of how my engine has seized. I doubt that though, because Amsoil has a guarantee on their stuff that will also cover parts and labor to fix whatever failed while being lubricated by their products.)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Mobil 1 is supposedly group 3. Debate is still on, but Mobil won't say clearly that is group 4.

The engines are supposed to burn/consume some oil (1/2-1 quart at 2-3000 miles) due to pumping effect of the piston rings. If yours doesn't, either your rings are seized and sooner the cylinder walls will see that, or you have gasoline seeping into crank case and keeping the level high.
Engine Oil Consumption
Are you sure engines are SUPPOSED to burn/consume oil? I'm sure I would know if my rings and cylinder walls were seized. I drive this car EVERYWHERE and it never gives me ANY problems. I take care of my car but it gets driven A LOT so I get my dollars worth out of anything I buy for it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
My great uncle who worked for Ford and Chrysler always told me this...

"Cars are made to be driven, NOT TOYED WITH!"

I take his advice on car related stuff. His 1991 Chrysler Imperial has 433,000 thousand miles on it (original trans and motor).
 
1 - 20 of 73 Posts
Top