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Discussion Starter #21
Was really a pretty easy install. The adhesive that is used to hold the plastic covering the opening is stupid strong. Once I got the deadener put back on I just used some Super 77 and sprayed it around the edges and just stuck it back to the door.
 

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I plan to make a custom, solid panel to fill that hole. Probably made out of a plastic of some sort, possibly sheet metal.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Got started on my amp rack tonight at work. Should be pretty straight forward and easy to do.



 

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Discussion Starter #24
Took some time tonight at work and cleaned up my CleanSweep wire harnesses. Spent an awful lot of time on a harness that won't be seen, BUT it looks good.

 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
So I got started on getting everything installed this weekend. I'm just gonna say it took A LOT longer than I expected. I started Thursday morning about 9am and finished it up about 3pm Friday afternoon. I ended up having to borrow my parents vehicle to run back home because the car was still completely dismantled. Only thing I didn't have out of the car was the center console,top half of the rear seats, and the carpet.

Running all my speaker wires weren't nearly as bad as I expected. Unfortunately I have Molex plugs in the rear doors so I had to drill holes in the open spots of the plugs to run the speaker wires through. Running wire to the fronts was fairly easy as well, minus some of the stupid plastic pieces Ford put on their wire harnesses to keep them in place. I honestly didn't take too many pictures during the whole thing just because I was so focused on trying to get it done.

Amp rack turned out great.





Love the way it came together and fit in, but I have a few issues now that I have to take care of.

  1. Factory radio will not work without being plugged into the stock amplifier. This means that my amp rack won't work out as planned because I am going to have to mount the stock amplifier back in its home.
  2. I cannot get the CleanSweep to calibrate correctly. When I first plugged it in, it was fine because it had previously been calibrated to the previous owners vehicle. Once I tried to calibrate it to mine it would not calibrate correctly. Come to find out, if your vehicle came with the "premium" sound system, in order to use the CleanSweep you have to use the JL CL-SSI Signal Summing Interface as well. Apparently with vehicles that have the "premium" sound system, they don't provide full-range signal. In order for the CleanSweep to calibrate correctly, you have to have full-range signal.
I found a CL-SSI factory refurbished for $65 and I just ordered it today. I'm hoping that it will be here by mid-week so I can hopefully be playing by this weekend. Talk about a headache trying to figure out why nothing was working correctly when you know everything was hooked up right. So now I am currently running around listening to my radio off of my front center channel, rear center channel, and my 2 6x9 "subs".
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Forgot to mention I have now deemed this



And I got some goodies in the mail from Droppin' HZ the other day too.



These were installed the other day when I was working Friday.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Well everything is in and playing, BUT still needs to be tuned and the CleanSweep needs to be adjusted using the master volume. When you read up online about them you see a lot about a hissing or static sound coming from the speakers. Actually called JL and talked to them and they said the master volume needs to be adjust on the CleanSweep and then I can adjust the gains on my amps.

I'm also going to have to make a minor change to my amp rack. Not quite big enough now that I had to add the CL-SSI to the mix. Now that I have to have the stock amp in its original place, I can keep the amp rack where it was, but I'm going to have to mount it differently. Before I had it screwed to the sheet metal on the inside of the trunk. Now I am going to use a piece of 2" dow rod and make essentially spacers which I will PL glue to the sheet metal and then screw the amp rack to the dows once I have them mounted and in place.
 

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"full 12 speaker Sony sound system"

I have this in my Flex and SHO. Worthless like any other factory system.

No matter the cost, I have never met a factory audio system worth a damn. Why? Warranty costs? Those speakers have a 3/36 warranty or greater (Lincoln). Attenuate bass or woofer warranty will increase!

I hardwired an Alpine 7897 into my Mustang Mach 460 system (great built-in EQ / crossover capabilities) and woke up the factory amps and speakers. It sounds awesome compared to stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
"full 12 speaker Sony sound system"

I have this in my Flex and SHO. Worthless like any other factory system.

No matter the cost, I have never met a factory audio system worth a damn. Why? Warranty costs? Those speakers have a 3/36 warranty or greater (Lincoln). Attenuate bass or woofer warranty will increase!

I hardwired an Alpine 7897 into my Mustang Mach 460 system (great built-in EQ / crossover capabilities) and woke up the factory amps and speakers. It sounds awesome compared to stock.
I don't know if it is just the new speakers or if it is the CleanSweep or both, but it sounds 100x better and clearer than it previously did. Before it just sounded muddy.
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
SUCCESS!

So everything is together now and playing as it should.

One thing I ran into when I did the install of the JL CL-SSI is that if it is not getting full-range singal from the headunit through the channels you picked to tap into, the CleanSweep will not calibrate. Let me take a step back and explain how the SSI works. The SSI has 3 inputs and is capable of 2 or 3 way converting. Input A is your higher frequencies, Input B is your midbass or bandpass, and Input C is your sub stage. When I first had everything hooked up I had it as follows:

A-Front Tweeters
B-Front Doors
C- Rear "Subwoofers"

I could not get this format to calibrate. I called JL and talked to them about it and they said that without knowing what frequencies each channel is, its hard to really tell me what channels I actually needed to be hooked up to. Now with the Sony 12 speaker system you also have the front and rear center channels. I took a second to read up and see what frequencies they covered which is, 350-3500hz. So from there I changed my setup to:

A-Front Tweeters
B-Front and Rear Center Channels
C-Rear "Subwoofers"

This format also failed to calibrate. At this point I was out of ideas. I then tried:

A-Front doors
B- Front and Rear Center Channels
C- Rear "Subwoofers"

This finally worked. The only thing that I can guess is that the frequency range of the tweeters was too small to cover the what the center channel didn't and that's why it was failing to calibrate. With using the front doors for input A I covered a wide range of frequencies since they are used for both vocals and some midbass, but mainly vocals.

After cleaning up the static in the system and getting the CleanSweep to calibrate correctly with the SSI, it has made a huge difference. Before I had the static from the CleanSweep cleared up I had it calibrated, but I had to have the bass and treble on the headunit turned completely down, which is not how its suppose to be calibrated. Now everything is set up correctly, the bass and treble are both set at 0 and now I will actually be able to use the bass adjustment to help with the tuning of my sub. I plan on going to see my buddy in Indy on Sunday to have all my amps tuned so no clipping occurs.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
So here are the updates that I had mentioned before with the doors being deadened...

Driver's rear




Passenger rear


Passenger front


All the doors were done the same. Inside of the doors were double layered and then you can see how the rest was done.

Thinking about trying to find some of the black ABS plastic or something of the like and making panels to cover the openings to the inside of the doors to help with the midbass response and then attaching them with nut rivets as I have seen done a few times.

Also got to add my new decal that a specially left enough room for...



hehe...probably my two favorite purchases so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Ordered and installed a new trunk light on Saturday. Before I had a cheap LED strip stuck to the trim panel at the trunk opening and it just wasn't cutting it. Some of the LEDs were on the fritz and it wasn't sticking very well so I finally got fed up with it and bought this:



We had lights similar to these are work so I already knew how bright they were. This is actually the 12v version. They also have a 24v version, which is the one we use at work. This came from SuperBrightLEDs. Ran me $20,but I don't have to worry about it burning out or it not being bright enough.

I cut and spliced directly into the existing harness for the stock trunk light and then stuck it to the carpeting on the top of the trunk and ran the wire through a slit to help hide it.



 

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Ah! I've been looking for a lighting solution for the trunk. I'm probably gonna steal your idea. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Have a few more small updates to post. Have to wait til morning when I can get on my laptop.
 

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TGR: I ordered the light and arrived on property yesterday. Do you have photos of the splice in of the wires? Cable looks to short I can get a extension using just plain wire. Do you have the wire gauge? Looks like maybe 18-22.
 
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