Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,
I have a `99 taurus ohv( wagon).
I recently was driving and a heard some grinding noises coupled with nattery light on.
AfterI replaced the alternator yesterday, I still have the light on (alternator is not charging).
I replaced serpentine belt / idler / tensioner as well.

I went to my mechanic who is not an electrical guy.
He said he needs whole day to trace problem . He directed me to another shop to try to find the problem .They want $97.50 an hour to do engine diagnosis.
And they couldnt tell how long it would take. After that its 68.50/hr for labor.
My question is .. where do I go from here.
Is there a way to check and trace an electrical problem the DIY way. Or do I have to pay 97.50 x Xhrs. Is that overpriced or reasonable?

Additional info:
When we take a bypass from battery to alternator connector it starts working hence we eliminated the alternator. This was from the positive on battery to the red lead on the bigger of the two connectors on the alternator.
I was worried about frying /exploding or other bad things that can happen. So he used another gen 3 taurus (not sure what year it was) that was there. His test was to determing if the break was from the alternator to the battery or from battery to alternator. Ie if its from battery to alternator then its safe to bypass, if not it could lead to overcharging etc.
When he turned the ignition off on the working ford, the car light on his meter(maybe a continuity meter?) showed the power was on (note , he was using it the same way as he did the bypass, from batt to red lead on alt) ,hence his conclusion was it was safe to do the bypass temporarily till tomorrow when he tries to trace it.

I have a multimeter and was wondeing what I could do to help solve my problem.

he car has 219000 miles on it so I dont want to spend loads of money on it if I can help it.
Otherwise , it is still strong.
I just did the plugs (thanks to various instructions on this forum).
And I bought the fuel filter as my next replacement.

Sorry for a long post. I just wanted to explain the details.


Cheers


myxo
 

·
Devoted Member
Joined
·
2,426 Posts
In the Northeast, Autozone and/or Advance Auto Parts will do a charging system diagnostic for free.
How old is your battery?

Edit: are both ends on all power cables clean, bright and tight? Extreme corrosion/gunk buildup can make terminal resistance high enough to impede charging.
"His test was to determing if the break was from the alternator to the battery or from battery to alternator. Ie if its from battery to alternator then its safe to bypass, if not it could lead to overcharging etc." That's a load of crap, it's the same in either direction.

(Any auto mechanic worth a **** knows vehicle electrical systems as well as mechanical. Sounds like a self-taught wannabe.)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
danhasenauer,
Thanks for the quick reply,
My battery is about 6 months old and the terminals are quite clean. No residue on them.

I did the system test at advanceauto. The charging system test :
no load voltage was equal to loaded voltage, and there was no ripple (the ripple graph was flat

It reported: charging system pr4oblem
check belts , connections and grounds . Alternator service recommentded if connections are okay.( this is my second alternator in 2 days)..And I guess with the bypass we show it works.

So if the test from the shop charging 97.50 is going to give that kind of output, then it wont really solve the problem and then we're back to tracing.

I will do some more research . I do hope there are systematic test to eliminate general areas that I can do tonight.

I just learnt form here
1993 Ford Taurus Charging System
that the plug I was refering to is called the regulator wiring plug. I am not sure I understand what they mean by jumper .

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
430 Posts
Myxo,
It sounds like you have already found your problem if I understand your post. I have a Duratec but if I remember right the positive cable from the battery goes to the relay module and then straight to the altenator. If you used a jumper and bypassed that cable and it started working, you have a problem with the original wire. Double check the connections and follow the wire as best you can and look for burn't or worn areas. I have gotten alternators bad right out of the box so now I ask the parts store to check it before I leave the store.

Ed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Ed,
I will check it out again. I wasnt too sure what I was looking for.
So this helps . I was unsure, because the main 4 gauge wire goes from the relay to the alternator , but the problem seemed to be somehow related to the little wire coming off the regulator plug, but it seems to be connected to the main power wire somehow.
I will check the wires . The mechanic also checked the fuses in the relay (power distribution) box using a tester while the engine was running.
I will unhook the battery and physically take them out to check just in case. I hope I can find the problem.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
By the way, I drove 25 miles with this bypass .
Since it connected to the regulator does this mean it will not overcharge the battery
or is this function in conjunction with the relay-power distribution box? I measured at that point and found it was 13.8v . My main concern is if overcharging is possible. Am I bypassing a voltage protector of some sort?
I took it off for the second half of my journey as I was afraid of overcharging.
I will try some junk yards , but otherwise all the local parts houses I asked so far have to order from Motorcraft and it will take some days (this is just in case I need to replace the connector.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
quoted fromJust changed alternator in 99 Taurus, battery - FixYa
  • Check with a test light, Power on the main post. Then unplug the three pin connector, you need to test for power to the regulator. I think the wire is green/red. It's not the white wire. The green/red wire is fed from the alt fuse in the underhood fuse box. The white wire is just a jumper wire to the one pin connector next to the three pin. The other wire goes to the light. If one of the pins in the Three pin connector( like i said i think its the green wire) and the main stud both show power, the take the alternator back and get another one.

In the quote above, he mentions an alternator fuse. I cant seem to find one (pg 131 of user guide).
Also is this tool Computer Safe Automotive Logic Probe better for this kind of testing or is a regular multimeter just fine?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,732 Posts
Regular DMM or test light is fine for testing power circuits. DMM is also fine for measuring computer related voltages.

Have you checked the mega fuse on the side (the outside, covered by a black plastic cover) of the power distribution / relay box right by the battery?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks Jeff
I havent checked the mega fuse. I guess I thought if that was blown , it would affect the whole power distribution box, but I will check that.
(the fuses in the relay box check out fine, I am yet to check the relays (soon as I am sure what I am doing :) )
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,365 Posts
After installing a voltage regulator in a Ranger's alternator once, the brand new Remy alternator produced no charge. Then realized I had forgotten to remove the retaining pin from the regulator's brushes after installation. Did that, still no charge. Investigated and realized I had shorted the new brushes and blown the charge system fuse. DOH. Replaced the fuse, all was well. Hopefully you're as lucky.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top