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have a 1994 Ford Taurus GL with the 3.0L Vulcan and for some strange reason my battery light likes to flicker I could be at a stop light and the battery light will stay on untill i give it the gas to go. Some times it will come on when i have the petal down while normal driving and when i let off it goes out. At night when i am driving and the headlights are on and the battery light comes on the lights dim slightly give it the gas and or let off the gas the light goes out the the headlights are normal again. I have had the Charging system check 2 times at Autozone and once at Advanced Auto they say every thing is fine. Also i have checked all Wires and connections cleaned the battery terminals and such still have the same problem. Any one have any ideas????

and another Quick Question any one know of a good VIN number decoder for the same year Taurus

Thanks all :D
 
J

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I would have guessed loose terminals or alternator is going bad... interesting... and the battery is definitley good??
 

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Autozone Said the battery was good and was holding a Great Charge but i have been thinking about getting a New Battery for it something with a little more Cranking amps any one know if going to high of a Cranking amp can hurt ??
 

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This used to happen to me. Possible reasons:

1.Battery
2.Terminal Node needs cleaning
3.Alternator
4.Electrical System Overload Check the fuses. Not good if this is the case.
5.Some times lose connection could result in this....a MAJOR lose connection...well u know what i am talking about.

My Model was 1993 FD TAU GL.

I reread your post again...looks like Alternator or Connection defect somewhere (especially if light is binking when brakes are applied)
 

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I can Apply the Brakes and the light would not come on it is just weird the Alt according to Autozone is giving a Good charge like it is supposed too and i dont know if it is Draining the battery or not but the Car starts and runs fine i could have all accieorys on and it does not drain the battery it comes and goes
 

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The Alt is a Duralast Gold and both autozone and advanced autoparts say the Alt is good but the Belt Hmmm Really dont know every things seems to be ok with it but maybe there might be a slip in it I will look in to it allways a possiblity
 

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I had the same problem with my sable. Except it would flicker under WOT. Then one day I was cruising down the interstate and my whole car just shut off. So, I had it towed to my house, changed the alternator and everything worked fine after that. But, if I was to guess, I'd say check the light under WOT and see if it does the same thing mine did. Otherwise it's probably a loose connection somewhere.
 

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1 check to see if your belt is loose if it loose then fix it

2 the best thing to do is start your car then unplug your battery

then let it run and open every electrical (heater light air cond if equipped )

then go drive it around check to see if it does that when it hot

3 external voltage regulator some time it does **** up but work lolllllll change this it is a cheap part

4 alternator regulator internally or some have one externally if so change it but normally better to change the whole thing
 

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Originally posted by Schimmel_98@Jul 13 2004, 09:31 PM
I had the same problem with my sable. Except it would flicker under WOT. Then one day I was cruising down the interstate and my whole car just shut off. So, I had it towed to my house, changed the alternator and everything worked fine after that. But, if I was to guess, I'd say check the light under WOT and see if it does the same thing mine did. Otherwise it's probably a loose connection somewhere.
Hmmm I hope my problem isn't like yours, but whenever I'm redlining (about 5,000 RPMs) the Vulcan, my battery light flickers and the lights dim...
 

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Originally posted by PC_Marine@Jul 13 2004, 10:56 PM
Hmmm I hope my problem isn't like yours, but whenever I'm redlining (about 5,000 RPMs) the Vulcan, my battery light flickers and the lights dim...
That is exactly what mine did. I noticed it about a week before the alternator actually went. If I were you, I'd have that looked at before the same thing happens to you. :blink:
 

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Originally posted by Schimmel_98+Jul 14 2004, 09:01 PM--><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (Schimmel_98 @ Jul 14 2004, 09:01 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-PC_Marine@Jul 13 2004, 10:56 PM
Hmmm I hope my problem isn't like yours, but whenever I'm redlining (about 5,000 RPMs) the Vulcan, my battery light flickers and the lights dim...
That is exactly what mine did. I noticed it about a week before the alternator actually went. If I were you, I'd have that looked at before the same thing happens to you. :blink: [/b][/quote]
how much did your alternator replacement cost? I know Pepboys will give you a reduced price of a brand new one if you are willing to exchange your damaged one for a new one :)
 

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Well.... I work at a distributing plant for Oreilly's Automotive, so I got the alternator for $90. The reason you get a discount is because they can return you old alternator and use it as a core to rebuild and refurbish it. Saves companies a lot of $$. But man, you see some pretty nasty stuff when you see what some people return as cores. lol.
 

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Originally posted by mooby@Jul 13 2004, 10:49 PM
1 check to see if your belt is loose if it loose then fix it
I would whole heartedly agree with Mooby's #1 suggestion. Even if it doesn't feel loose, tighten it or have it replaced (could be slipping). Replacing the alternator may make it go away ... cause they will probably tighten the belt at the same time.
Good luck.
 

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Your alternater is going.It will last maybe a day or a week. But soon you will be stranded.
 

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I had a Honda Accord that did the exact same thing. National Tire and Battery tested the alternator, found it bad, replaced it, and the car ran like a top.

Gotta be the alternator.

Good luck.
 

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You likely need an alternator. The voltage regualor is attached to the back of the alternator, and the brushes and slip rings are very likely worn out. That's why the light flickers.. as the engine runs and revs up and down, the brushes will lose contact with the slip rings and cause a poor charge, making the light come on. The circuit that turns on the battery light is also part of the voltage regulator. A new alternator should come with a new regulator already on it.
 

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Is it possible to buy only the voltage regulator and brush assembly? My brishes are getting pretty worn down, I check occasionaly them as to not get stranded somwhere.

The alternator stopped working in my volvo, so I bought a new voltage regulator and brush kit for $25, as opposed to $250 for a rebuilt alt. Most alternator failures are because of worn out brushes, a cheap fix.
 

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You can usually buy the regulator separately, but if the slip rings in the alternator are too worn, you'll end up with the same problem anyway. Best idea is to rebuild it yourself if you know how, or just put a rebuilt or new unit on.
 
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