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How was your charger connected? If it is not connected in a certain way, the increase in charge "misses" the Hall Effect Sensor and you'll get the phenomenon you're experiencing.
 

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Negative terminal was connected to the chassis this time, as per the recommendation from the forums. I used to connect it right onto the negative terminal of the battery until I learned about the Hall effect sensor. The SOC in the BMS seems to only reset via the computer (using FORScan or dealership tool). Two nights before, the SOC read 52% and I drove the car around the following day. Last night, I plugged in the charger for 10+ hours and scanned the SOC this morning at 49%.

It got to the point I kept a 5W solar charger panel in the car during the winter just to reduce some of the parasitic draw.
 

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Update:
I used a more powerful charger this time around, a 5A Battery Tender (which charges at a max of 5A to help reach a full charge faster than say a 800mA or 1.5A charger), and left it charged for 12+ hours. When I went to start the car, I ran FORScan and saw that the state of charge was at 99%. If I manually reset the BMS via FORScan, the new state of charge is always 90%, so the fact the BMS went to 99% by itself overnight indicates that it is possible to reset the BMS without the use of a dealership tool or FORScan. The time it takes for the system do this must be somewhere between 10 hours and 12 hours of not touching the car, because the last time 10 hours wasn't enough time. I'll keep an eye on this and see how fast it drops below 50%.

I would also point out that I think the Pulsetech XC100P or BatteryMINDer might be better chargers than the Battery Tender line. The maintenance charge on any of the Tenders (800mA, 2A, or 5A) is always 13.1 VDC at about 250mA to 300mA without desulfation capabilities. The XC100P had a maintenance charge of 14.3 VDC at 400mA to 900mA depending on current demand, and the BatteryMINDer was 13.88 VDC at 300mA. The Tenders are fine, but the XC100P/BatteryMINDer have desulfation capabilities and the higher maintenance charge voltage ought to help combat sulfation. That said, I've used Battery Tenders for about 10 years now on multiple vehicles without negative consequences.

So if you bought a new battery for a 2011-newer Ford equipped with the BMS, you can reset the BMS by keeping an adequately rated smart charger on the car and battery (using chassis as ground) and leave the car alone for 10-12 hours. Or you can use FORScan or take it to the dealership.

PS:
I think my USB flash drive was drawing power even with the car off, so I no longer use one for music, and so far so good. The voltage at rest seems higher even in colder temperatures. I was testing a BatteryMINDer for desulfation, but after more experimentation I think the BatteryMINDer may not be as good as the Pulsetech XC100P. I'm going to stick the XC100P on the SHO whenever I get a chance and see if it helps recondition the battery (which is only 7 months old, but I was recovering from massive surgery and couldn't charge/touch/drive the car for over a month) in case there was some sulfation.
 

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Another update: It's been almost a week and the FORScan state of charge reading is steady at around 82-83%, which is good news. Usually it has dropped to about 50% after a day. I really think it was because of the San Disk Ultra Fit flash drive. For some reason, others have experienced this USB 3.0 flash drive getting EXTREMELY hot when used on a PC or Mac. It might be drawing too much current on standby. I haven't kept anything in the USB ports and the SOC has remained steady. I don't remember exactly when I started using this Ultra Fit drive, because I've been using the older San Disk Cruzer Fit and a Samsung 32GB USB 3.0 drive for most of last year when the battery was fine.
 

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Hey y'all...
I have a 2013 Taurus Limited. Woke up this morning and my car won't start again. (Garage kept) This is the second time in a year when the battery has gone dead.
There's no aftermarket anything on the car. The last time I had the dealer replace the battery since it's a 2013. They assured me it was a bad battery. Def not the case.

Either something is drawing a current...or maybe alternator going out?
Anyone experience this?
Hey y'all...
I have a 2013 Taurus Limited. Woke up this morning and my car won't start again. (Garage kept) This is the second time in a year when the battery has gone dead.
There's no aftermarket anything on the car. The last time I had the dealer replace the battery since it's a 2013. They assured me it was a bad battery. Def not the case.

Either something is drawing a current...or maybe alternator going out?
Anyone experience this?
Hey y'all...
I have a 2013 Taurus Limited. Woke up this morning and my car won't start again. (Garage kept) This is the second time in a year when the battery has gone dead.
There's no aftermarket anything on the car. The last time I had the dealer replace the battery since it's a 2013. They assured me it was a bad battery. Def not the case.

Either something is drawing a current...or maybe alternator going out?
Anyone experience this?
Hey y'all...
I have a 2013 Taurus Limited. Woke up this morning and my car won't start again. (Garage kept) This is the second time in a year when the battery has gone dead.
There's no aftermarket anything on the car. The last time I had the dealer replace the battery since it's a 2013. They assured me it was a bad battery. Def not the case.

Either something is drawing a current...or maybe alternator going out?
Anyone experience this?
Hey y'all...
I have a 2013 Taurus Limited. Woke up this morning and my car won't start again. (Garage kept) This is the second time in a year when the battery has gone dead.
There's no aftermarket anything on the car. The last time I had the dealer replace the battery since it's a 2013. They assured me it was a bad battery. Def not the case.

Either something is drawing a current...or maybe alternator going out?
Anyone experience this?
Hi,

I have a 2013 Taurus SE and I'm experiencing a similar problem. I have replaced the battery twice in the last 6 months, with the most recent last month. My husband is ill and unable to help me. On Saturday my car wouldn't start after havibg used it the night before. My brother checked for me and it doesn't see is alternator nor battery. Voltage was 12.53 and Amp 0.6 after being turned off 45 min. Is there any suggestion you can offer? I'm avoiding the dealer as I'm sure their cost is prohibitive. Thanks!
 

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I've had very good luck with Walmart batteries. I believe they are Johnson Controls, highest warranty one you can get, and think about this: If it fails, in most places, there's always a Walmart within reasonable distance to swap out. I've had a 2012 Taurus and now 2013. Both original Motorcrafts failed early, and in both, I tossed in the Walmart EverStart Maxx and no issues... I even run an amp and sub. Never goes low on me. Give it a try.
 
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