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Discussion Starter #1
Hey y'all...
I have a 2013 Taurus Limited. Woke up this morning and my car won't start again. (Garage kept) This is the second time in a year when the battery has gone dead.
There's no aftermarket anything on the car. The last time I had the dealer replace the battery since it's a 2013. They assured me it was a bad battery. Def not the case.

Either something is drawing a current...or maybe alternator going out?
Anyone experience this?
 

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Gen 5/6 Forum Moderator
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There have been sporadic reports of this... it's not unheard of for the MC batteries in these things to have a cell go bad. Have the battery charged and tested before proceeding further.

Did it complain "CHECK CHARGING SYSTEM" / "TURN OFF TO SAVE BATTERY?" before you attempted to crank?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I can understand ONE battery going bad...but it's rare enough that TWO would go bad seems far fetched to me.

The radio screen said something about it shutting down to conserve battery. I wasn't sure if it was referring to the car or the radio?
 

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This battery has had a surprisingly odd failure rate. Either way, it's probably a bad battery or a parasitic draw. The latter is a PITA to diagnose and time consuming.

Rule out the easy stuff first.

And OK, that message indicates basically what the other two would have in the IPC--load shed protections are active, the car was tracking the battery and knew it went low.

BTW, warranty?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm hoping it's not a parasitic draw.
I'm at 44,000miles...but i purchased an extended warranty.

Someone mentioned maybe the seat heaters are the culprit...although i've never heard of this.

Thanks for your input!
 

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Seat heaters would get killed with the ignition off... and in any event, I think are disabled even when key is on but engine is off. They draw too much power.

If you want to avoid the deductible on your ESP, have Quick Lane do battery test on the house. There are coupons online, but you may not even need them. Like I said--easy stuff first--and free.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Got my car back today...Ford was able to turn it around quickly. The dealer claims it was a defective battery. The tested the alternator (strong) and couldn't find any other parasitic draws.
2 defective Motorcraft batteries in 4 mo? Yikes.
 

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I have an upgraded motorcraft battery in my car now, but we'll see if I still trust the brand in 3 years.

The track record has been spotty lately. Never used to be this way.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Has It Been That Long?
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Thankfully everything else Motorcraft is still the best choice.
 

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My 2014 SHO had a dead battery last year. The car was built DEC 2013. I installed a new Group 65 battery, and now I am getting messages saying the system is shutting off to save energy, blah blah. The voltage across the terminals was a very low value, 11.4 VDC. I'll normally see 11.89-12.10 VDC at rest because of the colder winters in Michigan in my other cars, and the cars will normally start fine. But the Taurus is worrying me with this much parasitic draw. I couldn't drive for a few months while recovering from surgery, so I stuck a 5A Battery Tender (an actual Tender) on it for the entire time - so the battery has been freshly charged up.
 

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Warranty, still?

Otherwise, first issue I've heard with parasitic draws EXCEPT that the 12v powerpoints in our cars are always hot.

BCM does track power consumed when the modules should be asleep, may be a place to start. Have you tested the battery to rule out a bad cell/similar battery-specific calamity?
 

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The new battery is fine, the old battery was really dead though - one or more cells were completely shot. The car was fine, I parked it in the garage for a week. Went to remote start and nothing. When the battery dies, the seat goes to a default setting as well. I found my seat to be in a weird position when I went to drive the car for the first time after surgery, but the battery was on a charger most of the time.
 

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I found some threads about the Battery Management System. I never had the BMS reset with the new battery, but I've had it sitting for 8+ hours undisturbed. I read that the overnight thing doesn't always work, so I'm ordering the OBD2 USB cable and will try using FORScan to reset it.

The problem now is that I constantly see the "System Shutting Down to save power" message on my screen, even though the battery is still powerful enough to start the vehicle and do other things.
 

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While I was waiting for my OBD2 USB cable to arrive, I had put the 5A Battery Tender on the battery in the car. I placed the negative clamp on one of the strut bolts instead of the negative terminal. I've never done this before on the SHO because this is the first time I've seen and heard of the BMS and how it uses a hall effect sensor to sense the current flow through the cable. I left the car alone charging for 8+ hours. So far, the battery voltage reads normal at rest, about 12.38-12.4 VDC after driving. Before I did this, the battery voltage at rest would be around 11.7-11.9 VDC and the NAV screen would tell me it is shutting off to save power, even right after I drove for 30 minutes!

With FORScan, I ran the BMS reset procedure and logged the Battery State of Charge. I noticed when the reset procedure is conducted, the State of Charge is reset to 90%. Hopefully I won't have to do this again.
 

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12.4 is pretty low resting. A good battery will rest around 12.8 typically. My brand new Super Start Platinum rested at 13.0
 

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I know the standard 100% SOC VOC reading should be something like 12.65-12.85 VDC, but honestly, I've never once bought a fresh new battery with a voltage at rest close to that and most of the time I see a lower voltage reading. When I first brought the Advance Auto Gold battery home for my Mustang GT, the battery voltage was 12.58 VDC, and it was 12.42 VDC for the one in the SHO. The one for a Ford truck (Group 65) was 12.59 VDC fresh.

Battery State of Charge by Temperature Chart - Little Guy Forum

How to choose the right power supply for your CarComputer
 

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Just an update:
I let the battery charge overnight and left the car alone for 10 hours to see if it would reset the SOC. No dice. In the morning when I went to read the SOC with FORScan, it did not reset and actually dropped a few percent with the charger in place overnight. The only way to reset the Battery Management System is either go to the dealership or use FORScan. I still do not like the electronics on this SHO. FORScan showed it was drawing over 6 amps of current just with the ignition on (HVAC was shut off). The alternator is producing the right amount of voltage and current but I think the parasitic draw is immense on this car.
 

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Just an update:
I let the battery charge overnight and left the car alone for 10 hours to see if it would reset the SOC. No dice. In the morning when I went to read the SOC with FORScan, it did not reset and actually dropped a few percent with the charger in place overnight. The only way to reset the Battery Management System is either go to the dealership or use FORScan. I still do not like the electronics on this SHO. FORScan showed it was drawing over 6 amps of current just with the ignition on (HVAC was shut off). The alternator is producing the right amount of voltage and current but I think the parasitic draw is immense on this car.
I think Ford is betting on the battery charge remaining fixed while the SoC/hall effect sensor recalibrates.... unless that's already what you did, I may not have read that correctly.
 

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Even if it recalibrates over an 8 hour period, it should pick up a SOC increase and not drop the SOC? The battery has to be discharging (albeit slowly) over that 8 hour period without a charger.
 
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