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Alternator is weak but the draw being limited to a fuse contra indicates a diode issue. Sounds like a LCB problem given the circuits involved
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Alternator is weak but the draw being limited to a fuse contra indicates a diode issue. Sounds like a LCB problem given the circuits involved
Installed a sjb out of an 05, still have some draw when hooking up battery. When i use my meter in line of the negative cable i get a clicking noise from the sjb sounds like a flasher inside. going to let it set over night and check battery voltage it s 12.9 now.
 

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draw should be under 1 amp, that's normal. However, 12.9V on the battery is way too high. Means the alternator is overcharging and may be the culprit after all.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
draw should be under 1 amp, that's normal. However, 12.9V on the battery is way too high. Means the alternator is overcharging and may be the culprit after all.
Right now draw is .65 i will wait an hour and check again.
The battery was at 12.9 because i had charged it , after driving it and checking hour later it was 12.47

Sorry for leaving out those details.
 

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Right now draw is .65 i will wait an hour and check again.
The battery was at 12.9 because i had charged it , after driving it and checking hour later it was 12.47

Sorry for leaving out those details.
Ah, I see. Did the main symptoms go away when the car is running?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Ah, I see. Did the main symptoms go away when the car is running?
No.


The main symptom was battery drain ,still there pull fuse 33 it goes away. Again i unplugged everything that runs off 33 headlights-instrument panel -mfs-radio/climate control.

At idle with headlights and heater on high, battery voltage went down to 12.0, so i will have alternator rebuilt or buy new. If i raise off idle to 1000 rpm it holds a 13.6

I'm thinking when wife drove it and heater and radio quit " she wasn't sure if headlights quit too" it was because voltage got too low, she was sitting waiting on daughter to get out of school.
 

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Did you ever find a solution to this?

I have the same battery drawn problem and it is fuse 33 too.

However, I have already replaced my alternator and battery and still have a problem!
 

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I have the same problem. 2006 Taurus SE. All doors closed, all lights off (dome, trunk, glovebox). Drain on fuse #33 is 0.32 Amps, after it falls from an intial 0.76 Amps when power is introduced. (I ran a wire pair in series with the battery from under the closed hood to the passenger compartment so I could introduce power and read an ammeter with doors closed.)

Open the driver door, it falls to 0.47 Amps. Close the door, it goes to 0.46 Amps. 30 seconds later it falls to 0.32 Amps.

Pull fuse 33, it disappears. That fuse serves the integrated control panel (ICP), the emergency flashers, and the instrument cluster. Manual A/C on this car, so no EATC.

So I pulled the integrated control panel and unhooked all its electrics: radio, fan, AC, heater. (Aftermarket radio, so the radio unit in the trunk is already gone.). No change in drain current.

So next I pulled the multifunction switch (MFS) which controls the emergency flashers. No change in drain current.

So next I pulled the instrument cluster. No change in drain current. With all of cluster, MFS, and ICP unhooked, still have 0,32 Amp drain current. And I can hear a relay clicking when I momentarily put on power.

So I pull the relays from the interior fuse box, one by one. None of them make a diference to the drain current.

So I pull fuse #33 again just to check. Drain current vanishes.

Put it all back together, no change in drain current.

Anyone have a clue for me?
 

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I need to bring this old thread forward. I have a 4.72 Amp draw. Lo and behold when I pull fuse # 33, the draw does down to 0.015 Amps or 15 mA. Did anyone ever come up with a fix for it.There are no lights on, not even the glove compartment or trunk. The battery measured 12.52 volts after a 40 mile drive today. Battery tested at 895 CCA. After a few days the battery is at 12.1 V and 714 CCA.
 
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