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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have read a lot of the threads here about ball joints. My local guy said my are "bad". Not 100% sure what that means. Tire wear is not excessive. A small vibration in the front end at highway speeds. Also a passenger side wheel bearing going. But my question...is changing ball joints a DIY job or is it better left to a pro? I am no stranger to car repairs. Muscle car builds in the 70s, off road rigs 90s til now. I have also rebuilt the front end of a Tempo with axles struts etc. I have a compressor and tools. And it seems like auto-zone rents/loans the specialty tools. I just don't want to screw it up seeing I have never done it before. Thanks. Jim
 

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Their not that bad just take the outter tie rod end off and then undo the ball joint nut pickle fork the tapered stud off the control arm and pull it out then use a press to get the old out and press in the new.
 

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Because the ball joint comes up out of the steering knuckle the CV shaft must be removed from the hub and knuckle assembly to provide the necessary clearance. The ball joints on the Taurus are easiest to remove with the steering knuckle completely removed from the car. Autozone and Orilely's both rent a ball joint press kit but you will also need the Taurus / Sable adapter kit, The press kit won't work without it.
 

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+1, Yes. The ball joints are pressed-out and then pressed in. This can be done at home with the right ball joint tools. I believe OTC or K-D tools make a front-end or ball joint tool kits for this. OTC and/or K-D tools may be found at Sears? Not sure.
 

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That brings up a different issue, and that is what brand ball joints to use. I tried going with cheaper ones in the past, all with the same conclusion. They made it about 12,000 miles, which is a year for most drivers, before they started wearing out. I replaced mine with Moog the second time around. Moog is better than the OEM ones, and costs less than dealer ball joints. Everything is made by cheap oriental brands that just don't hold up because they aren't made to last. I would strongly recommend doing them with Moogs, unless you like changing ball joints or unless you are going to scrap or sell the car within the next year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That brings up a different issue, and that is what brand ball joints to use. I tried going with cheaper ones in the past, all with the same conclusion. They made it about 12,000 miles, which is a year for most drivers, before they started wearing out. I replaced mine with Moog the second time around. Moog is better than the OEM ones, and costs less than dealer ball joints. Everything is made by cheap oriental brands that just don't hold up because they aren't made to last. I would strongly recommend doing them with Moogs, unless you like changing ball joints or unless you are going to scrap or sell the car within the next year.
Are these considered cheap too? I saw them before I read this and was thinking of ordering them. We put about 6-7K per year on the car. Thanks. Jim
http://shosource.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=133
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I took a look at the ball joint on the pass side and it didn't seem loose but did notice the boot was busted so they will need to be changed. Jim
 
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