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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I finally tackled the drivers side ball joint. After doing alot of reading on how to do it, there is one thing that was not true. Hitting the lower control arm with a "Big F Hammer" WILL not remove a 10 year old factory ball joint with 107000 mi on it. I beat the lower control , put a jack under the ball stud, beat some more, sprayed lubricant and sob would not budge at all. Did the pickle fork, nothing and finally got an adjustable pitman arm separtor , and still not a freaking result. I know, heat it up, but I did not have a torch in my garage. So i finally cut it with a hack saw and was able to remove the knuckle. I finally put the big c clamp on the stud that remained in the conrol arm and i could see the big clamp starting to flex. Yes i was pushing it from bottom to top. So at the point where the big c clamp(ball joint remover) was starting flex, i put my safety glasses on and gloves , took the big F hammer and gave it a couple of hard hits on the clamp(clamp was bottomed out on cement floor) and Finally it just "popped out" Well put Moog bank in, and come to find out these are NOT GREASABLE. Positive side no more front end clanking, banging supsension noise.
 

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oof da.... I suspect I have one of these to replace soon and I'm not looking forward to those kinds of troubles!
 

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did this job on a 2000, ALOT easier with a ball joint press. Autozone has it as a loaner tool. ( you do need the Ford adapter set to go with it). EASY
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hornswagle, its doable but time consuming. When i do the passenger side, (which is in good condition, but assuming its no long for it to go) if it gives me the same problem, ill just go ahead and hack saw it off. Instead of trying hours and hours to bang it off. With knuckle off, its alot of room to mess with the stud on the lower arm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
did this job on a 2000, ALOT easier with a ball joint press. Autozone has it as a loaner tool. ( you do need the Ford adapter set to go with it). EASY
Hey fomoco, i had the same loaner tools, ball joint press, ford taurus adapter, adjustable pitman arm removal, and the fork. It was super ,super easy to change out the old ball joint out of the knuckle, the problem was the lower control arm did not want to separte from the ball joint stud.
 

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You didn't move the control arm up by putting it under a jack did you? If so, THERE'S YOUR PROBLEM!

If you have a press and a air gun, it's easy. The amount of force pushing up on a ball joint (that is by all means not connected or pressed into the control arm) is probably in the vascinity of 200PSI+, which should be more than enough to press that bad boy out. So, if that's the case, you probably are doing something wrong.
 

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Hey Green, I have been trying to remove the control arm off my 96 for the last 6 hours. Nothing is working. For something that is only 200lbs press fit into the LCA, it sure does not want to move. I am taking back my second pitman are remover in a few minutes. It is the high dollar one and still bent the tabs and sides trying to remove the LCA. I give up
 

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You didn't move the control arm up by putting it under a jack did you? If so, THERE'S YOUR PROBLEM!

If you have a press and a air gun, it's easy. The amount of force pushing up on a ball joint (that is by all means not connected or pressed into the control arm) is probably in the vascinity of 200PSI+, which should be more than enough to press that bad boy out. So, if that's the case, you probably are doing something wrong.
Hi Izzmo, when you say press, is that something to remove and install the ball joint from the knuckle or to remove the LCA from the Ball Joint stud???
 

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By press I meant a pitman arm puller (sorry didn't mean to say press).
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
You didn't move the control arm up by putting it under a jack did you? If so, THERE'S YOUR PROBLEM!

If you have a press and a air gun, it's easy. The amount of force pushing up on a ball joint (that is by all means not connected or pressed into the control arm) is probably in the vascinity of 200PSI+, which should be more than enough to press that bad boy out. So, if that's the case, you probably are doing something wrong.
Appreciate the comment as this is a place to find advice and give advice. This is NOT the first time i do ball joints on any vehicle. I did not have the jack under control arm, I did however put it under the ball joint stud itself when i was hitting the control arm, and i would also put on the rotor with few lug nuts and then jack under rotor, and it would still not budge. I do not have any air tools at home garage. Now, I know air tools make a differance becouse of the hammering of the tool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hey Green, I have been trying to remove the control arm off my 96 for the last 6 hours. Nothing is working. For something that is only 200lbs press fit into the LCA, it sure does not want to move. I am taking back my second pitman are remover in a few minutes. It is the high dollar one and still bent the tabs and sides trying to remove the LCA. I give up
AT that point is where i cut the ball joint(as pictured) and with the knuckle out of the way, there is plenty of room to deal with the bolt stud that is left in the lower contrl arm.
 

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It was super, super easy to change out the old ball joint out of the knuckle, the problem was the lower control arm did not want to separate from the ball joint stud.
Glad to hear the BJ pressed out of the knuckle easy. That's the part I was most concerned with if I end up changing them on my sister's '98 wagon. It never occured to me the tapered stud might be stubborn.:unsure:

I've had pretty good success dealing with tapered stud separation on vertualy everything I've worked on. Never done one of these Taurus though. I almost never have to use a pickle fork. Only in cases that there isn't enough 'meat' around the stud to get a good whack on with the BFH.

I see where one would not want to separate if the control arm was supported by a jack. I'll have a sawzall handy just in case I encounter the same problem.
When I was studying my sisters to gage how difficult the job might be, I thought taking the whole knuckle off would be the best way to R&R the joint.
 

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Green Amazon, Ball joints on the Taurus either come out easy (which I suspect have been changed before) or they are a royal PIA. My son's car was like yours. I broke two pitman pullers and bent two of the C clamp type balljoint tools. I did not have the Taurus adapter that others have mentioned, but I am not sure that would have helped. Ended up cutting them with a Sawsall and then taking the knuckle and the control arm and having them pressed out. I happen to have access to the auto hobby shop on the navy base where I work and had them do it. They have a 50 ton press and got them out. The guy who did the job said he had never seen such tight balljoints and that I would never have gotten them out at home. Good luck.

Ed
 

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To separate the ball joint from the lower control arm I used a pitman arm separator. Once you apply the pitman arm separator to the ball stud and put pressure on it you have to wait until you hear it "pop". And if that means you have to wait 5 minutes or 30 minutes but it should pop. And you'll hear it pop because it make a loud noise.

Now that the ball joint is somewhat separated from the lower control arm, how do you remove the stud from the control arm?

2 x 4 method...sorry I have no air tools
Get a pair of 2 x 4's about 4 feet each in length. This is a 2-man operation so find some one to help you. Place the 1st 2x4 between the axle shaft and lower control arm, make sure one end is underneath the body and the other is routed under the sub-frame by way of the axle shaft and lower control arm, toward the front of the car, this board runs parallel with the car. The 2nd 2x4 is used a lever against the 1st 2x4. If you have placed the 1st 2x4 correctly there is a space between it and the sub-frame or forward of the lower control arm. Put the 2nd 2x4 between the sub-frame and the 1st 2x4. This gives you a very powerful lever but it isn't going to be easy. This 2nd 2x4 is perpendicular to the 1st 2x4. Now the fun really begins. While your buddy pushes down, you hold the 1st 2x4 in place so it does not slide down the lower control arm. Its tough but can be done. You may have to readjust the boards several times to find the right spot until the ball joint stud clears the lower control arm. This is a real PITA but can be done...did ya bring your muscles? Use the same technique above to re-install ball joint stud to the lower control arm.

When ever I do this ball joint thing it always seems I'm always 3-threads away from clearing the lower control arm and it really pisses me off !

Special ball joint tools (e.g. OTC) are used to press the old and new ball joint in and out of the knuckle.

Good Luck....Monsoon
 

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I find that lots of pressure with clamps or puller coupled with strong whacks with a BFH, add heat if no results... usually cures most stuck items. Pressure itself won't budge the stubborn ones, but add heat and shock while the pressure is constant and I've never had a problem. Sometimes you litterally just have to sit there like a mindless idiot hitting it with the hammer hundreds of times before it finally gives up the fight.

Too much rebound in suspension items to have a hammer work on its own.
 

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So I finally tackled the drivers side ball joint. After doing alot of reading on how to do it, there is one thing that was not true. Hitting the lower control arm with a "Big F Hammer" WILL not remove a 10 year old factory ball joint with 107000 mi on it. I beat the lower control , put a jack under the ball stud, beat some more, sprayed lubricant and sob would not budge at all. Did the pickle fork, nothing and finally got an adjustable pitman arm separtor , and still not a freaking result. I know, heat it up, but I did not have a torch in my garage. So i finally cut it with a hack saw and was able to remove the knuckle. I finally put the big c clamp on the stud that remained in the conrol arm and i could see the big clamp starting to flex. Yes i was pushing it from bottom to top. So at the point where the big c clamp(ball joint remover) was starting flex, i put my safety glasses on and gloves , took the big F hammer and gave it a couple of hard hits on the clamp(clamp was bottomed out on cement floor) and Finally it just "popped out" Well put Moog bank in, and come to find out these are NOT GREASABLE. Positive side no more front end clanking, banging supsension noise.
Technically these ball joints are not grease-able. However if you go to the grease section of like Checker or Autozone they sell a needle grease fitting that attaches to the end of a grease gun. This attachment looks like a large Hyperdermic needle and its sharp. I would recommend you grease these ball joints once every 2-years with this needle.

Find a non-stress point on the ball joint boot and poke the needle into the boot and start filling it up with grease. The non-stress points are usually the flat spots on the boot. I have only done this once and had good results. In my mind its better than no grease at all or letting the ball joint go dry. Furthermore the needle makes a very small hole in the boot. Unless you find the original hole you put the needle in next time, you probably only do this 2 to 3 times before you ruin the boot.

Monsoon
 
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