Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
'06 Vulcan...

Something ain't smooth in the accessory belt path...at idle there's noise, lights flicker, and the tensioner starts vibrating, all intermittently. Also it squeals quietly.
I recon it's probably a bad bearing or something behind one of the pulleys, but everything seems to work fine, so I'm not sure where to start. I pulled the belt off tonight, and spun a few things by hand. Water pump is fairly smooth, tensioner was not great but still smooth, alternator was very smooth, as was the idler, power steering took some force but didn't seem rough, and the a/c pump did seem a little sticky, this was just with the clutch open, when running everything behaves the same with or without it.
I just wanna know if there's a better way to test these before I just start replacing stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
552 Posts
If the lights are flickering it could be the belt is slipping on the alternator and if the AC bearing isn't turning freely that could be the cause. check the condition of the belt and replace if bad. It sounds like you've got a bad tensioner pulley too if it's vibrating.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
If you want to eliminate all A/C related issues, for many cars there are shorter belts for use without AC.
My AC clutch froze on my 2000 SES Vulcan.
I just went to AutoZone and asked for an
"82.5-6 rib belt."
You'll have to argue with them for a while, because they are used to punching in the year make and model, then going by what the computer says, but just reaffirm that you don't want the standard one, you want a 82.5 6 rib so that you can bypass the AC pump.
Worked like a charm
(Also remember to borrow their Serpentine belt remover, the two wrench trick works, but is a pain in the but.):cautious:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Two wrench trick? I just use a 15mm open/boxed end wrench with a 1" wide steel pipe shrugs
Anywhoms't, KillrRABBIT, do you remember the part number? Don't know 'bout the Zone but Advance (my store) doesn't really have them organized by size.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Dayco/5060825 or Driveworks/825k6 if anyone was wondering. I am a little concerned since the back of the belt rides ever so slightly against the a/c pulley.
Well, too soon to tell if itll help, but a couple nights of Doordashing oughta do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
I dont know what kind of access there is to the AC pumps, but changing out the clutch bearing/pulley is not that big a deal if there is enough room to get at it. You do need to be careful taking it out, as there is a washer/spacer to set the clutch air gap if it is anything like the AC pump on my expedition. My AC went out at the end of a 7 hr trip in august. It was now a 7 hr trip back home with no AC. When i got under there i saw that the bolt had come out, and the clutch face was gone along with the spacer. Grabbed several from a junk yard hoping that one of the spacers would be right.Got a new aftermarket clutch kit and put it back together.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Not sure if this is relavent but I use a 3/8” plastic plumbing pex supply tube and touch it to center bolt and listen (Poor man’s stethoscope ) too bearing on the tensioners and touch the housing on alternater and a.c. Pump and listen.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Okay, seems like it is the A/C clutch.
Anyone have any opinions on what brand?
Also, is there anywhere that will recover my refrigerant? I'll probably have to pull out the compressor from up top, I live in the rust belt and would likely need an angle grinder to drop the subframe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
I just want to agree regarding a serpintine belt tool. Best 17 bucks I ever spent at Harbor Freight. Worth every penny!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
294 Posts
I have replaced the pulley without completely removing the compressor. Remove mounting bolts and tilt compressor so you can get at pressure plate center bolt, and snap ring holding pulley. Removing headlamp and/or moving coolant reservoir slightly helps. Don't open a/c system if you don't have to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,953 Posts
Hot wire the A/C clutch to hold it still while loosening or tightening the center bolt while the belt is still on. Saves a bit of pain. Pic is hot wire of the starter so to crank the car without flooding or other issues with keying it. Piece of wire with a quarter inch spade connector on one end. Location of which relay might not the same as mine. Year to year variations.
-chart-
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Two wrench trick? I just use a 15mm open/boxed end wrench with a 1" wide steel pipe shrugs
Anywhoms't, KillrRABBIT, do you remember the part number? Don't know 'bout the Zone but Advance (my store) doesn't really have them organized by size.
Yeah, but keeping the combination wrench on the nut while putting the pipe on can be a female canine as well.
I have been eyeballing one of those extendable ratchets at Harbor Freight though.
Anywhozits, try Advance Auto Parts' Driveworks Part# 825k6


It should be the same as the AutoZone one.
The other belts the Advance website shows don't give the number of ribs the belts have, so I can't say about them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Dayco/5060825 or Driveworks/825k6 if anyone was wondering. I am a little concerned since the back of the belt rides ever so slightly against the a/c pulley.
Well, too soon to tell if itll help, but a couple nights of Doordashing oughta do it.
I've had mine in for over a year and about 10? 12000 miles?
I was concerned about that too when I installed it, but the belt looks fine. It shows the tracks from where it rubs a little, but not to where I'm worried about it.
I put in the shorter belt because the frozen solid compressor was causing the regular belt to drag the alternator. It would stop charging the battery, it was dragging so bad.
So, if it was really dragging on the new, shorter one, it would've shown drag wear on the back by now, but it only shows light tracks after 12000 miles.
216376
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
508 Posts
Okay, seems like it is the A/C clutch.
Anyone have any opinions on what brand?
Also, is there anywhere that will recover my refrigerant? I'll probably have to pull out the compressor from up top, I live in the rust belt and would likely need an angle grinder to drop the subframe.
You do not need to discharge/recover the refrigerant to replace the clutch coil assembly if the compressor is still good.
IMG_20130912_122022 (Medium).jpg IMG_20130912_122057 (Medium).jpg IMG_20130912_130117 (Medium).jpg
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top