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Hey Gang:
If any of you have been put to the challenge of replacing the output seal of this transmission you may know what roadblocks you are facing.
I recently replaced my output seal with Motorcraft part number: 2F1Z-1177-AB. I would NOT recommend replacing this seal with a knock-off part like National. Motorcraft seal has a much better fit and an additional rubberized O-ring like seal in the back of the part. Almost like two seals built into one part. Other knock-off parts may not have this feature and the cost is about the same - $15 bills. I replace the driver's side seal in this scenario. Replacing this seal is a major PITA but with patience it can be done.
Once you have remove the old seal (K-D seal removal tool) how the heck do you install the new seal without damaging it? You'll get all kinds of advise how this is done from "tap it in with a ball peen hammer" to "a seal install kit", wrong on both accounts. You'll have to think out-of-the-box on this one. You could use a large socket but the socket wall would have to be thin enough to seat the seal all the way into the casting.
To install this seal it should be forced in squarely as possible, that eliminates the hammer approach. And with the output shaft staring you square in the face the seal install kit is also out the window.
What's next?
Go to a hardware store and look for PVC pipe (white), specifically the couplers that have 2 different outside diameters. The coupler I bought is 2.5" OD x 2.25" OD x 2" length made by Charlotte Pipe, can be found at most Lowes stores. This is ideal for knocking in this seal. The coupler fits squarely over the seal and the wall on the coupler is thin enough to knock all the way into the casting. Additionally, I place a block of 2 x 4 over the coupler as a striking surface. This coupler with the 2 x 4 is a great combination for installing seals with output shafts. The cost of the coupler was $1.80 I believe.
Monsoon
If any of you have been put to the challenge of replacing the output seal of this transmission you may know what roadblocks you are facing.
I recently replaced my output seal with Motorcraft part number: 2F1Z-1177-AB. I would NOT recommend replacing this seal with a knock-off part like National. Motorcraft seal has a much better fit and an additional rubberized O-ring like seal in the back of the part. Almost like two seals built into one part. Other knock-off parts may not have this feature and the cost is about the same - $15 bills. I replace the driver's side seal in this scenario. Replacing this seal is a major PITA but with patience it can be done.
Once you have remove the old seal (K-D seal removal tool) how the heck do you install the new seal without damaging it? You'll get all kinds of advise how this is done from "tap it in with a ball peen hammer" to "a seal install kit", wrong on both accounts. You'll have to think out-of-the-box on this one. You could use a large socket but the socket wall would have to be thin enough to seat the seal all the way into the casting.
To install this seal it should be forced in squarely as possible, that eliminates the hammer approach. And with the output shaft staring you square in the face the seal install kit is also out the window.
What's next?
Go to a hardware store and look for PVC pipe (white), specifically the couplers that have 2 different outside diameters. The coupler I bought is 2.5" OD x 2.25" OD x 2" length made by Charlotte Pipe, can be found at most Lowes stores. This is ideal for knocking in this seal. The coupler fits squarely over the seal and the wall on the coupler is thin enough to knock all the way into the casting. Additionally, I place a block of 2 x 4 over the coupler as a striking surface. This coupler with the 2 x 4 is a great combination for installing seals with output shafts. The cost of the coupler was $1.80 I believe.
Monsoon
