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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Gang:
If any of you have been put to the challenge of replacing the output seal of this transmission you may know what roadblocks you are facing.

I recently replaced my output seal with Motorcraft part number: 2F1Z-1177-AB. I would NOT recommend replacing this seal with a knock-off part like National. Motorcraft seal has a much better fit and an additional rubberized O-ring like seal in the back of the part. Almost like two seals built into one part. Other knock-off parts may not have this feature and the cost is about the same - $15 bills. I replace the driver's side seal in this scenario. Replacing this seal is a major PITA but with patience it can be done.

Once you have remove the old seal (K-D seal removal tool) how the heck do you install the new seal without damaging it? You'll get all kinds of advise how this is done from "tap it in with a ball peen hammer" to "a seal install kit", wrong on both accounts. You'll have to think out-of-the-box on this one. You could use a large socket but the socket wall would have to be thin enough to seat the seal all the way into the casting.

To install this seal it should be forced in squarely as possible, that eliminates the hammer approach. And with the output shaft staring you square in the face the seal install kit is also out the window.

What's next?

Go to a hardware store and look for PVC pipe (white), specifically the couplers that have 2 different outside diameters. The coupler I bought is 2.5" OD x 2.25" OD x 2" length made by Charlotte Pipe, can be found at most Lowes stores. This is ideal for knocking in this seal. The coupler fits squarely over the seal and the wall on the coupler is thin enough to knock all the way into the casting. Additionally, I place a block of 2 x 4 over the coupler as a striking surface. This coupler with the 2 x 4 is a great combination for installing seals with output shafts. The cost of the coupler was $1.80 I believe.

Monsoon
 

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Beautiful advice!! Thanks for sharing your wonderful (and cheap) tip on getting this seal into place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Passenger Side Output Seal

Hey Gang:
I did the passenger side output seal yesterday. Unlike the driver's side there is no output shaft to deal with when replacing this seal. However, the seal is just a difficult to replace as the driver's side. Gotta love that PVC coupler and 2 x 4 block as install tools.

Monsoon
 

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Kind of the same thing, In the electrical section in Home Depot they have the large Gray PVC. Take your seal with you . The flange on one of the larger sizes fits perfectly. One whack and seal is in no damage.

Ed
 

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Thanks!

Now I can return the overpriced "National" seals O'reilly's sold me + get the
Factory ones!

(I cannot believe all the useful,important information I've gleaned from this forum in just one [Partial} Evening's reading.]
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Kind of the same thing, In the electrical section in Home Depot they have the large Gray PVC. Take your seal with you . The flange on one of the larger sizes fits perfectly. One whack and seal is in no damage.

Ed
I love thinking out of the box to solve these somewhat simple but complex problems! Makes you wonder how the stealership does it? Possibly the same way? Nice.

Monsoon
 

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How much time did it take you guys to replace the seals?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
How much time did it take you guys to replace the seals?
If you have no issues (highly unlikely) ball joint is the biggest PITA. 3 to 4 hours each side. Its a lot of physical labor and straight forward process. The tricky part is installing the new seal without screwing it up.

But hey $20 bucks beats $200 or more from the dealer.

Monsoon
 

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Hey Monsoon, just two questions for you.

1) Is this the seal puller? [ame]http://www.amazon.com/KD-Tools-3245-Seal-Puller/dp/B002XMW9R0[/ame] Looks like I could grab a 6 in 1 tool from Lowes while I'm there for pipe to substitue in for this seal puller?

2) So you said there is an output seal (2F1Z-1177-AB ) and an output shaft seal? Is there a different part number for the output shaft seal?
 

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I think the Output Shaft Seal part number is E6DZ1177A.
Rock auto lists: 2F1P1177AB, 2F1Z1177AB, E1EW1177A3A, E1FZ1177A, E1FZ1S177A, E6DW1177AA, E6DZ1177A, E6DZ1S177A, F33263, F33263FT
From what I know, OE part is made by Timken and output seals are identical on both sides.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hey Monsoon, just two questions for you.

1) Is this the seal puller? Amazon.com: KD Tools (KD 3245) Seal Puller: Home & Garden Looks like I could grab a 6 in 1 tool from Lowes while I'm there for pipe to substitue in for this seal puller?

2) So you said there is an output seal (2F1Z-1177-AB ) and an output shaft seal? Is there a different part number for the output shaft seal?
1. Yes. Mine is a KD tool as well. Be careful not to scrape or scar the aluminium casting with it. Makes a nice weapon as well.

2. Sorry for the confusion the output seal and output shaft seal are one in the same. I probably just should have said "output seal" and kept it that way. The 2F1Z-1177-AB is a Ford (Motorcraft) part number.

Monsoon
 

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Awesome thanks. I am picking up the seals at the dealer in the AM. This should fix some 2 of 6 leaks on the wagon :)
 

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Excellent tip using the PVC pipe. Worked great.
Used a 3 inch pipe to install the front pump seal on a replacement AX4N for my 2000 Wagon
 

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I never thought of PVC pipe. I had a length of 2½" exhaust-pipe extension to which I taped a foam-rubber ring with electrician's tape. Ugly and ungainly, but it worked. The foam rubber acted as an insulator and holding agent, and I used a 1x4 piece of wood for a drift then hit the wood with a hammer two or three times. The seal seated perfectly. It was a National, part #3622. Wish I'd known about the extra rubber in the Motorcraft seal, but oh well - not tearing it down a second time. ;)
 
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