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Discussion Starter #1
New member, 1st post.
1st let me say THANK YOU ALL SO VERY MUCH FOR ALL THE FREE INFORMATION I HAVE FOUND HERE ON THIS FORUM !! IT IS ABSOLUTELY ASTOUNDING !! :)

Ok so I broke out the #18 line wrench. Gave it a go and almost rounded the nut. Sprayed her down with penetration oil let her sit over night. Tried again today.. nada. I am afraid I will round the nut if I try to hard, or brake something like the line, or possibly the fitting off in the housing ( which as we all know WOULD SUCK HORRIBLY)
Should I apply heat? More penetration oil? Or am I missing a step?
Mine are not quick disconnect unfortunately. They have those gay tin secondary retainer clips, and NTP fittings.
( OHHHH... this is on a 1994 Taurus GL 3.0L Vulcan non-flex.)

1st time messing with an auto trans so help me out if you can.
Manual I can do easily but auto's have been my kryptonite.
I down loaded the VERY NICE PDF file AX4-S service manual by ATSG I found on this forum ( A BIG BIG THANK YOU THERE BTW !! )


What I am trying to do is replace the front pump seal ( at least I think its the pump seal, could be the converter seal ? ) as well as the solenoids. MAYBE a valve body rebuild and replacement clutches if I feel confident enough. If not I will drop off the valve body and the clutch assemblies and have them reworked at a shop.
The way things started:
No slipping, but it DID start holding gear once it shifted into a higher gear on me though. Then dumping into a lower gear only when I almost came to a complete stop. So I replaced the TPS, and the neutral safety, cleared the codes and it went away. YEAH ! *NOT* 2 days later it came back. Cleared the codes again and it went away again. @ days later it came back again. Buddy who owns a trans shop says the code indicates incorrect gear ration which usually means a sticking solenoid.
So after it was cleared and came back the second time it sprung a BAD leak coming from the under side of the trans bell where it buts to the engine. ( hence I am unsure if it is the converter, converter seal, OR the front pump seal yet. )

But so far.... the only thing holding me up are these frick'n lines ! *ARG!!*
Whats the trick to getting them off ?

I think I will also document bolt sizes.
All the articles I have read always leaves those out.
I think if I document them for future users it would save them a lot of searching through the old tool chest.

Thanks !
Duane
 

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14 people have read this post in a forum full of mechanics and no one knows how to get the lines off ?

:(
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No one so far has a better idea....

I took mine off recently, but didn't have any problems... sorry I can't help :(


I'd try the penetrating oil again, and then heat, if you can do it safely.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for responding.

Yeah I sprayed it again a few minutes ago. Gonna let it sit overnight.
I think if I cant bust'em loose tomorrow afternoon I'll just price new lines.
If they are cheap enough I'll just cut the lines flush with the nuts using my dremel and use a socket to get them off.
 

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Aside from the fluid leak, your post about the tranny grabbing 1'st on a stop down shift, or hanging up on a up shift, sure sounds like the problems I had when my speed sensor acted out at about 30-37 mph.

I also had speed-o & cruise control problems caused by the bad speed sensor, so if those other things & maybe the ABS brakes acting out if you have them, all could be other clues that you have a bad speed sensor.

Heat, penetrating oil, soak time like you've suggested & vibration are about the only things I can think of, on the stuck fastners. Use a good fitting line wrench & maybe tap it a little & see if that'll break them loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks pawpaw.
Its not really "grabbing" 1st like a slam or anything its just hanging high with out down shifting, sticking in 1st or 2nd in drive ( forgot to mention that sorry ) and then like a slight surge into 1st or 2nd when I am below say 20mph.
The leak is more like a steady stream LOL! Think it could be a converter seal and not a pump seal? I mean "other than" the pouring fluid it doesn't slip at all. Gets reverse, 1st,2nd,3rd & 4th but hangs high and remains high on acceleration with out kicking into passing gear until I am below 20 (?) mph.
Since I have to drop the trans regardless I was thinking about just dropping it off whole at the local shop and having them rebuild it out of car. Figure it would be probably A LOT cheaper that way. I mean a master kit is like what $250 ? A VSS is about $40-$50 and if I need solenoids the kits for all are about $150.00 I think or right about $100 or so for a good used valve body complete from the JYD. So I figure bout' $400-450 in parts ( IF that is every thing I need and the converter isn't bad ) plus about 4 hours labor for an experience builder ( buddies shop so there may be no labor cost or a cut rate ) say what.. bout' $200 labor so $600-700 out of car rebuild ?
Assuming I get a good cut rate OR a flat rate does that sound about right?

More in depth history: I bought the car for $1.00 from an old neighbor HA ! Its in great shape too. Straight, clean, rust free, good interior excellent engine. I am the 2nd owner. He bought the car brand new in 94'. It broke down in 2002 (?) sat until I bought it in 2005.
He had it on jacks in his back yard for about 3 years or so. Asked me if I wanted it for a buck LOL! I said "Well Bob not to sound ungrateful but before I take delivery let me make sure it is worth fixing and not something I'll have to pay to have towed away." SO I charged the battery, cleaned the plugs, dropped in some marvel mystery oil and hand cranked her over. Poured 2 gallons of gas in and tried to fire her up.
hit the key, no fuel pump sound, but it turned over.
Got out pope the intake hose off and sprayed some either in and it fired right up. SO I said to my self " fuel pump ". went to the store bought a pump, dropped the tank and low and behold the pig tail was some how **** eyed on the plug ! I popped it on, started her up and drove it away fro $1.00 LOL! :D
So after the 1st GOOD test drive I discovered that the VSS was bad because it was down shifting HARD. REAL hard. As well one engine mount was bad, and the sub frame bushings were bad.
So I replaced the VSS the motor mount, and the sub frame bushings in my drive way, cleared the codes and it was good to go.
1 year later the distributor went out. ( sheared the pinion gear ).
3 months later the trans went out. I think he said some thing was cracked in two and it was a wonder it was driving at all ? Not leaks though.
So I paid $1200 bucks and was under the impression that is was being over hauled from front to rear ya know. His wife told me so even when I picked it up. Got two years out of the build and then found out recently when it crapped out he didn't rebuild it just "repaired it". I was like WTF dude $1200 for a "repair" when a rebuild cost about the same ?

So any ways there is the history of this turd snatcher that's sitting in my drive way. Unfortunately for me its the only transpo' I have right now. :( waiting on an engine for the wife's car. ( LOoooong story there too. Lets just say she had damn well better call me before driving the car if its not acting "normal" again, and check the damn oil !!. LOL! )
Gonna be a two week wait there just for the engine. Time is of the essence and mine will be the faster and easier fix. I can drop it and replace it right here but not rebuild it if it needs to be rebuilt.

WHEW !!!
That's a mouth full !
They call me "tater-windbag-salad" LOL !!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Got'em off with a little heat and picked up some new quick disconnects to go in place of. Factory lines fit like a glove still.
It'll be ready to pull and take to the shop by tomorrow evening hopefully.
 
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