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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i almost about done with my rewiring my audio system.
Before



After




not done at i need to weld up some new mounts for my amps witch i want to mount on the floor behind my subs. once that is done i can clean up and secure all the wires
moving on. I wanted to put some 6x9 in the front doors the speakers i will be using are pretty big so I'm going to need spacers. I just wounder if anyone else has did this.
My other problem is with my amp for my subs wtich has been overheating sine i got it after my other failed epically. so on i just wondering what would be a good replacement.
 

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Looks better. But is your sub amp that planet audio behind the carpeting in the wheel well? Its getting absolutely no air over it. Mount it to the back of your folding seat. Also is there a particular reason why you have the subs facing forward and in seperate boxes?
 

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If you look at the pics he moved the Amp. Its attached to the plastic surround at the back of the trunk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I only move my crossover and the plant audio amp My 4 channel is still back there behind the panel under the carpet.
I temporarily move the plant audio amp in front of my subs


Planing on getting these to replace my two amps soon
Boss PH4.700 (PH4700) 2800W 4 Channel Phantom Car Amplifier
Boss PH4000D 4000W Max, Phantom Series Class D Monoblock Power


Looks better. But is your sub amp that planet audio behind the carpeting in the wheel well? Its getting absolutely no air over it. Mount it to the back of your folding seat. Also is there a particular reason why you have the subs facing forward and in seperate boxes?
As for the sub facing forward in different boxes i found that when the are facing that way my trunk lid doesn't rattle as much.
the grey sub box was recovered from my other car witch was stolen about a year ago. the black i got for the Taurus. the subs are the same but the boxes are different.
 

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^

When subs fire backward, the SPL goes up, they has been tested by ears and equipment. If your trunk lid rattles or rattles too much, maybe you should turn down the volume. This should accomplish the same effect as pointing the subs forward.
 

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Firing backwards is fine but if you do so the box needs to set about 6 inches from the rear hatch. ALTHOUGH firing forward is best expecially if you seal it off from the trunk. This gets rid of trunk rattle , lowers the amount of air the subs play in and increases DB.
 

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Firing backwards is fine but if you do so the box needs to set about 6 inches from the rear hatch.
It doesn't _have_ to be so close to the rear hatch. However, the closer the better. The way I see it, with subs 6 inches away from rear hatch, that's really gonna get on the way. However, when subs aim either forward or backward while pushed to the opposite end of the trunk, neither position gets on my way of using the trunk relative to each other, but facing the rear end of car is better for efficiency compared to facing cabin..
 

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The best and most effencient way is fireing them forward and sealing it off from the trunk. AKA mini wall.

@ OP looks good mang. I would make a box for 2 subs tho :p
 

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The best and most effencient way is fireing them forward and sealing it off from the trunk. AKA mini wall.

@ OP looks good mang. I would make a box for 2 subs tho :p
With-hold comment here. Lol. Firing back, is the simplest way to get good results without doing a "permanent" installation. You wont get cancellation and yata yata yata. But on paper, the "mini-wall" reduces cabin volume and is louder. Alot of it depends on the vehicle and installation. But if your just firing straight into the car without sealing off. Push the box(s) as far back as possible. Or fire back and use some deadener ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
well i moved them the other way now, rattles a lot from the outside like i said. also i plan to build some new boxes to hold 15"s that will fix in the wheel wells.
 

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well i moved them the other way now, rattles a lot from the outside like i said. also i plan to build some new boxes to hold 15"s that will fix in the wheel wells.
Haha. It does happen. I was originally going to do 2 15's but i decided to do 4 12's instead. A bit more cone, double the motor force and power handling. And i can do a lower profile box to let air back into the cabin. Have you popped out that foam piece in the rear deck for the center 6x9? And if you have that carpeting along the bottom of the rear deck, removing that will let more pressure into the cabin.
*Edit*: If you would like any help designing the enclosure I'd be more than happy to give you a hand. I can draw you a CAD model of it and a cutsheet and everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Haha. It does happen. I was originally going to do 2 15's but i decided to do 4 12's instead. A bit more cone, double the motor force and power handling. And i can do a lower profile box to let air back into the cabin. Have you popped out that foam piece in the rear deck for the center 6x9? And if you have that carpeting along the bottom of the rear deck, removing that will let more pressure into the cabin.
*Edit*: If you would like any help designing the enclosure I'd be more than happy to give you a hand. I can draw you a CAD model of it and a cutsheet and everything.
yeah i did do that but it looks ghetto. i just removed that baby seat latch thing cover. and the stuff around it. sometime i will make it bigger and make a custom grill to go over it.

for the box i have came up with a few designs, i have a little engineering experience, but not in sound so could use a little help. i wanted to try to make it out of fiberglass sine i don't work with wood that much.
 

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A wooden box will give the best results. Fiberglass ones look nice, but acoustically are usually terrible. The best thing you can do, is when you buy wood at lowes, have them cut the pieces to what they need to be. glue and screw it all together. Then fiberglass resin and mat the inside of the box. Box building isnt crazy woodworking. I've build entire boxes using nothing but a jigsaw and a cordless drill for tools. I'll take some measurements of my trunk and get started on a box design for you. Any idea what subs and how much power, also what tuning do you want? I have to take that all into account.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i hate working with wood the last time i made a speaker box it looked like the leaning tower of pisa with nails sticking out. but it is better for sound so i'll try it again this time i will get a better saw. does lows charge for that?
Also i will like to make the box upgradable what mean buy that is i can just cut a bigger hole in it when i my new subs.
these are the sub i want to get Boss P156DVC (P156-DVC) 15" Dual 4 ohm Phantom Car Subwoofer

i'll post up one of my design to show what I'm thinking.
 

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i hate working with wood the last time i made a speaker box it looked like the leaning tower of pisa with nails sticking out. but it is better for sound so i'll try it again this time i will get a better saw. does lows charge for that?
Also i will like to make the box upgradable what mean buy that is i can just cut a bigger hole in it when i my new subs.
these are the sub i want to get Boss P156DVC (P156-DVC) 15" Dual 4 ohm Phantom Car Subwoofer

i'll post up one of my design to show what I'm thinking.
Lowes has never charged me for it. And what do you mean by upgradeable? 2 15's will want at least a 6-8 cube enclosure. 2 12's will want like 4 cubes. Putting 2 12's in a box designed for 15's will bottom the subs out like its nothing.
 

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i knew what you meant. was informing the op that the manufacture of subs have the specs for enclosure based on development and testing.
 
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