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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
02 Taurus DOHC

Some of you may remember me posting back in 9/09, in which I had a vacuum leak and misfire on Cyc 2, and a leaky injector. They fixed my injector and everything was running smoothly until recently.

Misfiring again at first rotations, and misfire on cyc2 again. I took the car to one shop and they decided I needed new plugs, wires, coil, valve cover, etc. total of $650 in repairs. Since I had the wires and plugs replaced about a year ago, I assumed they were just adding additional costs to be repair. So I decided to get a 2nd opinion.

Took the car to Monro and asked them to see what they felt the problem was. They said they checked for vaccuum leaks, as well as valve cover leaks and was unable to locate any issues. They did not change anything and recommended I took to dealership. They mentioned it could be the coil pack but it would cost several hundred in labor to get to coil in order to test.

After reading that my initial issues in 09 and now in 10' could be tied to the coil I went ahead and purchased a new one as I got it on sale locally for $64. Since I have done my own crowl rain hat repair, I assumed I could do this repair as well. I had not idea I would not have remove anything from the engine in order to get to the coil. Is there a reason shops do not use this process?

Is there anything else I should attempt prior to switching out my coils later on today? Also if the coil does not fix the issue, do you have another suggestion?

Chris
 

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My 01 had a missfire on cyl 1 so i replaced coil and plugs and wires. i removed the wiper cowl and i had enough room to get in there
 

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huh, I always thought 2000+ DOHC engines used coil on plug design.

But apparently not if you've got spark plug wires and a coil pack.

You can test the coil pack.

Basically, you connect an ohmmeter to pin 4 on the coil connector (blue/white wire) and the other end to each other pin, one by one (with pin 4 always staying connected). The resistance is supposed to be 0.5 ohms.

then theres another test where you connect the ohm meter between where the spark plug wire connects to (on cyl 2 for you) and the #3 coil (for cyl #2). The ohms there should be 13,600ohms.

If its off, you'll know its the coil pack.
 

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You can get them pretty cheap on Rockauto.com too.

They have them as low as $46.99.

You could even get a Motorcraft one through them for $86.89
 

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huh, I always thought 2000+ DOHC engines used coil on plug design.
2000, 2004-5 Duratecs are coil on plug, the 01-03s are wires & coil pack.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Tonight I removed the crowl and sprayed with water bottle in order to verify a leak. I could not get it to stutter. I looked at plug two and it was much dirtier then 1 and 3. Could that still be an issue with the coil pack since something is leaking or not being used. Should I just continue with te coil change or do coil plugs and wires even though wires were replace about 2yr ago.
 

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man sounds like they are a pain to change on those years... The 06 is so easy it takes 5 mins. to swap (sits right on front valve cover 3 bolts blam....)
 

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I'm not saying this could be the case for everyone, but its my experience that the coil is rarely the issue. 9-10 times its the wires or plugs. If the coil is cracked or cracking... replace it. The electronic coils on these newer cars stand up better and don't have coil fade like the old oil filled coils of days gone by.

Tonight I removed the crowl and sprayed with water bottle in order to verify a leak. I could not get it to stutter. I looked at plug two and it was much dirtier then 1 and 3. Could that still be an issue with the coil pack since something is leaking or not being used. Should I just continue with te coil change or do coil plugs and wires even though wires were replace about 2yr ago.
Not saying this is the issue but, good rule of thumb, buy good wires. Cheapo wires will go bad in a few years. However you don't need race wires like Taylors.. A good set of Autolite pro wires will be fine.

If theres crap on the plug.. that means you have a much bigger issue than a malfunctioning coil.. matter of fact I think your plug is fowling from some other more extensive issue.. if the plug is fowled it will misfire.... so dont waste money on a coil yet.

Got some pics?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah I can try and take some pictures, the only real issue is its my only transportation. I drove it around 20 miles yesterday and I was unable to re-create the codes after a reset. Today I have to drive to work. According to Pepboys they claimed the following needed replaces, plugs, wires, coil, valve cover, water pump. It seems like they just kept adding parts. When I took to Monro and explained I wanted a second opinion. They were unable to locate a leak in the valve cover, and explained that in order to check coil, or look deeper the cost in labor would not be worth it and recommended taking to dealership.

What all areas would you like pictures of?
The replacement wires I have are Autolites, though not sure if they are pros.
 

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huh, I always thought 2000+ DOHC engines used coil on plug design.

But apparently not if you've got spark plug wires and a coil pack.

You can test the coil pack.

Basically, you connect an ohmmeter to pin 4 on the coil connector (blue/white wire) and the other end to each other pin, one by one (with pin 4 always staying connected). The resistance is supposed to be 0.5 ohms.

then theres another test where you connect the ohm meter between where the spark plug wire connects to (on cyl 2 for you) and the #3 coil (for cyl #2). The ohms there should be 13,600ohms.

If its off, you'll know its the coil pack.
There's some posts previously about the resistance testing of coils. Basically it is not definitive. The problem is that the resistance might be okay but if the insulation is bad due to cracking, you can get internal arcing at high voltage which the resistance testing cannot predict. So best to look for cracks and replace when needed.

Also, the OP said why does shops don't use the remove cowl cover method to replace the coil. There are two cases to this. First they actually don't know... which means they are dumb. Or more likely they do remove the cowl and can get it replaced in 30 minutes but they tell you otherwise so that they can charge 2 hours of labor for it.
 

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Also, the OP said why does shops don't use the remove cowl cover method to replace the coil. There are two cases to this. First they actually don't know... which means they are dumb. Or more likely they do remove the cowl and can get it replaced in 30 minutes but they tell you otherwise so that they can charge 2 hours of labor for it.
The cowl doesn't need to be removed to change out the coil. I have larger hands and can still change out a coil without removing the cowl on the Taurus. Sure, removing it might save a few minutes on the process, but that's also time spent removing the clips, etc. off of the cowl - and praying that you don't break one of the pins that hold it in place. Actually, I've replaced all of my pins with stainless steel screws after the plastic ones broke.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well guys I drove the car to work today and I will be driving home as well. Roughly 50miles each way. I did not run the AC as I did not want to cause the stutter. It did not throw the code on the way to work.

I will attempt to take pictures tomorrow, I have not switched out the coils cause I would assume once it's installed it's not returnable. I want to ensure it is the issue prior to switching.

I know that someone recommended in another thread, switching the wires to see if the misfire followed the wire. I figured since the code is not instant that switching and running plug 2 as plug 3 and vice versa may cause more of an issue. Am I correct?
 

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Well guys I drove the car to work today and I will be driving home as well. Roughly 50miles each way. I did not run the AC as I did not want to cause the stutter. It did not throw the code on the way to work.

I will attempt to take pictures tomorrow, I have not switched out the coils cause I would assume once it's installed it's not returnable. I want to ensure it is the issue prior to switching.

I know that someone recommended in another thread, switching the wires to see if the misfire followed the wire. I figured since the code is not instant that switching and running plug 2 as plug 3 and vice versa may cause more of an issue. Am I correct?
You want to switch the wires on the coil pack and the plugs, not just on the coil pack. If the misfire moves, you know it's the wire causing it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
UPDATE:

After 270miles the CEL came back on, I have not been able to get to Autozone in order to check the readings. The funny thing was it didn't happen until I drove the car during the end of a rain storm. Makes me think there is a leak somewhere, however with the hood closed would there be much rain hitting the coil pack? Or does this point me into a completely new direction?
 

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UPDATE:

After 270miles the CEL came back on, I have not been able to get to Autozone in order to check the readings. The funny thing was it didn't happen until I drove the car during the end of a rain storm. Makes me think there is a leak somewhere, however with the hood closed would there be much rain hitting the coil pack? Or does this point me into a completely new direction?
Did you apply a bit of dielectric grease on the plug connectors before installing them into the coil?
 

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I don't know why anyone would say the coil pack isn't common problem. I don't know why people still say you can check resisitance in the coil pack. It's a useless test. Can't you just go to a junkyard? Pull one and switch it out. Still not definitive because the coil from the yard might be bad. If you have a p0300, p030x, and the plugs and wires are year old, I'd replace the coil. I'd be very surprised if that doesn't fix it.
 

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One thing you might want to check is your ground under cowl. The higher amp load from the A/C goes through this ground and might be a contributing factor, plus it's free and easy. remove wire terminals, sand paint and corrosion and cover with dielectric grease after you tighten the bolt.
 
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