I have two 15" Rockford Punch HE2s in my g3, they barely fit in there, i also have two 1200 watt amps. I'd have to say i've had no luck when it comes to vibration damping. The trunk rattles, i dynomatted it, the rear bumper rattles, i dynomatted that too, i did the license plate too. Everything still rattles, and since I installed a second amp you can see the rear door panels inflating on the outside of the car. The right front window rattles also if i turn the bass all the way up. Soon i'll break something. Maybe i'm just overdoing it but does anyone have problems with vibration in g3s.
Anyone Have Vibration Trouble?
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Try turning them around so they are firing inside. This way they are not firing right into the trunk lid.
How much airspace do those things need? Those boxes are huge!
Derek
How much airspace do those things need? Those boxes are huge!
Derek
The boxes probabyl aren't really that big, the way the G3 trunk is designed probably makes it neccessary to have to have them pushed forward that much.
I don't think you are overdoing it by any means, any car audio buff will agree.
I had four 15" subs in my car (2 type R's, and 2 15" HE's) and two 1000bd amps. I wouldn't waste time on the spray foam, maybe only if you need to build up a surface (like the trunk lid) so you have one flat surface to apply the dynamat to.
I used two rolls of brown bread on the trunk lid, and it made little difference, you could tell but it wasn't worth it. you need to go with more than two layers.
Good luck
I don't think you are overdoing it by any means, any car audio buff will agree.
I had four 15" subs in my car (2 type R's, and 2 15" HE's) and two 1000bd amps. I wouldn't waste time on the spray foam, maybe only if you need to build up a surface (like the trunk lid) so you have one flat surface to apply the dynamat to.
I used two rolls of brown bread on the trunk lid, and it made little difference, you could tell but it wasn't worth it. you need to go with more than two layers.
Good luck
Those boxes are relatively large compared to other boxes because the subs require 2.5 cu.ft. each, the boxes are 2.4. I built an amp rack behind the subs which is why they are pushed forward. I wonder if i should be concerned about vibration when there is none inside the car.
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I would try cutting a whole from the cabin on the top parcel shelf down into the trunk. Someone else did that and put some nice trim around it and it looked really nice. That way when the subs hit, it will give the pressure waves somewhere to go rather than just blasting the trunk panels outward.
-mobiuslogic
-mobiuslogic
Theres a bad spot on the inside of the trunk lid and that would be the trim ..I had to put a foam block between it and the lid.But you'll find out theres other rattles that will come from under the car that you will just have to find , like heat shields and such.
Attachments
Does that dynamat spray stuff (or similar product) that looks like black primer work, because if it does, i would just spray the underside of my car with it. Since i started this post, i've turned the boxes around and it changed the sound of the bass on the inside of the car, but everything still rattles just as much.
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Greetings spy2529,
Looking at some of the other posts, I can tell you that they're partially, correct.
When I started professionally installing sound systems in vehicles in 1983, I didn't find many cars that suffered from sympathetic vibrations because the systems simply weren’t as sophisticated as today. To be quite clear, the systems aren't as sophisticated today as they were ten years ago. We've gone backwards.
I commonly did show vehicles designed for â€Sound-off Competitionsâ€, and these had many sympathetic vibration issues.
“Filling your whole door panels with that foam-in-a-can stuff†won’t solve many issues. If you were to perform this procedure, the vibrations would still be so great that the surface of the hardened foam would de-bond from the inside surface of the doors or body panels, and cause exponential db (Decibel) rise. You would really hear it outside and, in!
As for the “Dynamat spray stuffâ€, in order for it to work correctly, it would need to be so thick, that it would be scraping on the road, and there wouldn’t be much room in the trunk or the cab. I think what result you’re wanting, is rigidity.
Cutting a whole in the rear deck, into the cab of the vehicle, will, allow a considerable amount of restricted pressure to escape and not aid you in the hunt for those nasty buzzes all over, in and under your car.
The size of your enclosures means nothing when it comes to vibrations.
“Sound is subjectiveâ€. It’s what you like, not what someone else thinks you should like.
Like ‘Jays97sho’ mentioned in his post on Aug 12 2004, 05:11 PM. What we’re saying is, if you really desire to rid yourself of these, you’ll have to tackle them ONE by ONE by ONE in layers.
“Striping the car down†is a real good idea. Only remove what can be replaced within a forty five minute period. “Dynamating everything in the process†may not be the only thing that you’ll want to do. As for Dynamat, it peals away from what it’s sticking to, no matter how well you prepare the surface. What I’ve always done is start with the obvious, and then inside the cab, and work out.
Now, if you read all the way through this long post, I’m now going to give you, and everyone reading this, the way I have found all of the vibes in all of the show cars I’ve done. If you have access to a tone generator, with a sweep capability, you can find all of the vibrations at any frequency by connecting it where your head unit is. Now if you don’t have access to a tone generator, you can go to the music store and buy a ‘TEST’ CD. These will give you a generated sweep from high to the lows where you’re having problems. You’ll want to disconnect your other speakers other than the woofs. You don’t need them on blasting you as you’re inside listening for the offending buzzes and rattles.
For your license plate, run a few beads of silicone on plastic rap, the dimensions of your plate, let harden, and place between the license plate ring and behind the plate and body with a thin coat of silicone for adhering the hardened pieces to the plate. This same procedure works well with most parts of an auto. It’s so much lower in price, and more customizable.
I hope this helps.
Tim
P.S: If the Bass sounds better the way you had them before, put them back. What sounds better counts much more.
Looking at some of the other posts, I can tell you that they're partially, correct.
When I started professionally installing sound systems in vehicles in 1983, I didn't find many cars that suffered from sympathetic vibrations because the systems simply weren’t as sophisticated as today. To be quite clear, the systems aren't as sophisticated today as they were ten years ago. We've gone backwards.
I commonly did show vehicles designed for â€Sound-off Competitionsâ€, and these had many sympathetic vibration issues.
“Filling your whole door panels with that foam-in-a-can stuff†won’t solve many issues. If you were to perform this procedure, the vibrations would still be so great that the surface of the hardened foam would de-bond from the inside surface of the doors or body panels, and cause exponential db (Decibel) rise. You would really hear it outside and, in!
As for the “Dynamat spray stuffâ€, in order for it to work correctly, it would need to be so thick, that it would be scraping on the road, and there wouldn’t be much room in the trunk or the cab. I think what result you’re wanting, is rigidity.
Cutting a whole in the rear deck, into the cab of the vehicle, will, allow a considerable amount of restricted pressure to escape and not aid you in the hunt for those nasty buzzes all over, in and under your car.
The size of your enclosures means nothing when it comes to vibrations.
“Sound is subjectiveâ€. It’s what you like, not what someone else thinks you should like.
Like ‘Jays97sho’ mentioned in his post on Aug 12 2004, 05:11 PM. What we’re saying is, if you really desire to rid yourself of these, you’ll have to tackle them ONE by ONE by ONE in layers.
“Striping the car down†is a real good idea. Only remove what can be replaced within a forty five minute period. “Dynamating everything in the process†may not be the only thing that you’ll want to do. As for Dynamat, it peals away from what it’s sticking to, no matter how well you prepare the surface. What I’ve always done is start with the obvious, and then inside the cab, and work out.
Now, if you read all the way through this long post, I’m now going to give you, and everyone reading this, the way I have found all of the vibes in all of the show cars I’ve done. If you have access to a tone generator, with a sweep capability, you can find all of the vibrations at any frequency by connecting it where your head unit is. Now if you don’t have access to a tone generator, you can go to the music store and buy a ‘TEST’ CD. These will give you a generated sweep from high to the lows where you’re having problems. You’ll want to disconnect your other speakers other than the woofs. You don’t need them on blasting you as you’re inside listening for the offending buzzes and rattles.
For your license plate, run a few beads of silicone on plastic rap, the dimensions of your plate, let harden, and place between the license plate ring and behind the plate and body with a thin coat of silicone for adhering the hardened pieces to the plate. This same procedure works well with most parts of an auto. It’s so much lower in price, and more customizable.
I hope this helps.
Tim
P.S: If the Bass sounds better the way you had them before, put them back. What sounds better counts much more.
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