ANY info on 2.5L motors in 1991?

Put a large scoop (i.e. dragster) on the hood, connect it directly to the intake and you still won't measure positive pressure (greater than a few inches of h2o) at 100+. Forget anything less.

As for measuring boost at closed throttle, how does that mean anything for performance? With a closed end pipe, any air moving in the same plane will produce a very slight positive pressure. Look up Pitot Tube and you'll notice units of measure as inches of water, which are fractions of one PSI.

I'm with loudsho92. If there was an effective, true ram-air system, it would be on every car made to help CAFE.

PerformanceWithEconomy said:

Outside of that, your comments about "ram air" improving CAFE is absolutely 110% backwards. Cold air is denser than warm air and requires more fuel. More fuel means higher emissions AND lower mpg's. Most manufacturers are specifically working with warm air intakes for this reason. I've seen multiple Mopar's that draw air in from directly behind the radiator for this very reason. Then again, they were working with Smokey Yunick, the "inventor" of the hot air engine. I do something like this every winter with my daily driver. The difference in MPG's is VERY measurable.

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PerformanceWithEconomy said:

Outside of the increased net cylinder pressure due to greater cylinder fill, for every 10*F reduction in intake temperature, a 1% increase in power will be realized. If drawing in hot air from under the hood behind the radiator in a low pressure zone, moving your intake to an outside high pressure zone will help you to realize some of the potential that you have for power gains in this area.

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If you are attempting to argue a theory, why do these paragraphs contradict each other? If you want a warm air setup, go back to the round filter sitting on top of the engine. Find a major manufacturer using that design. I dare you.