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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Sometimes it's amazingly good to drive. So good that I forget it isn't new; punchy acceleration with very little foot on the gas, effortless steering wheel turns while maneuvering, gliding down city streets once up to speed...

Sometimes I have to mash the pedal a bit more to get any kick out of the engine, steering is more stiff while maneuvering, and it feels like I'm having to fight to keep the car at street speeds and if I take my foot off the gas the speed drops like a rock - like it did today as the RPM gauge dropped to around 2,000RPM to 1,000RPM very quickly and slowed the car as it happened. But within a second or two RPMs kicked back up to where they normally are while cruising.

I've done wires, plugs, fuel filter, air filter...

What else should I look into? I've also got a rough idle, but like the behavior above it's only sometimes.

I'm just hoping to get this car free of quirks because I spent $1,800 on it fairly happily. But I've since dropped over $400 in maintenance, most of which voluntarily, so that I could get the car to what I consider top driving behavior - and yet it still seems to have some fairly obvious quirks. Sometimes I feel like I paid too much for the car and have put too much into it to quickly, but... eh. Maybe it's just that fact that I didn't know anything about the importance of maintenance of my first two cars and was ignorantly none the wiser as I kept my wallet fatter.

Anyways, thanks again for your insights car gods. :)
 

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Hows the pcv hose under the throttle body? Brake(s) hanging up? After a drive, feel center of lug covers and see if one is much warmer than the others. Could have a sticking caliper, slide pins or internally collapsed rubber brake hose at the wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I actually tried to take a peek at my PCV hose a few days ago and couldn't see much of it past the bit immediately under the EGR.



That's the hose, correct? Is there any secret to getting a clearer look at it full-length?

(Credit to SoNic67 for the original pic, btw ;))
 

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No, not the oil separator hose the pcv valve sits in, the u-shaped hose atop the valve connected to the manifold. Might be able to feel if its soft and mushy, but best to remove the throttle body as in the pic and check/replace valve and hose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ah, alrighty. Then it looks like the PCV valve is much easier to get to in earlier Duratecs like mine than it is in later models because the video I saw on YouTube for an '02 made it seem like the valve itself was practically in the middle of the engine.

I'll check it out tomorrow when the sun's back up. ;)

Also, I inherited the car with a clogged EGR port (and accompanying code/light) which I had to get cleaned out a month or so ago. I've been starting to wonder if the EGR itself bit a bullet long ago and if it could be affecting the performance/behavior of the car?

Cheers sheila. :)
 

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Easy to check. With car idling in park, remove vac. hose atop egr valve and replace with a scrap piece of vac. hose and suck by mouth introducing egr flow to manifold. Engine should stumble or die signaling valve diaphragm is ok and passageway to the uim (upper intake manifold) is open sufficiently. Remember, there should be no egr flow to the manifold at idle or wot (wide open throttle). Of the 3 egr components on your engine, valve, evr (egr solenoid on pass. side of uim) and dpfe sensor (egr pressure feedback sensor), all are pretty reliable except the dpfe. If suck test fails to make eng. idle falter, this tells you egr valve is carboned up (dirty) and needs to be cleaned/replaced and/or the passageway to the uim is plugged.
 

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PCV removal

Ah, alrighty. Then it looks like the PCV valve is much easier to get to in earlier Duratecs like mine than it is in later models because the video I saw on YouTube for an '02 made it seem like the valve itself was practically in the middle of the engine.

I'll check it out tomorrow when the sun's back up. ;)

Also, I inherited the car with a clogged EGR port (and accompanying code/light) which I had to get cleaned out a month or so ago. I've been starting to wonder if the EGR itself bit a bullet long ago and if it could be affecting the performance/behavior of the car?

Cheers sheila. :)
Added pic of where PCV valve is on a '01. I use a 7/8 12 point socket and extension. The square on the valve is ~3/4" square. It turns half turn CCW to remove. Then it is O-ring in so you have to pull on it with pliers.

You do not have to remove EGR valve or intake as in the pic. Air cleaner and throttle body you do have to remove.

As others have posted the hose is often a problem.

Pic attached of hose. ~$17 at RockAuto.

-chart-
 

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do the easy stuff first, but consider that if you havent serviced the transmission for sometime, then you could be looking at a sensor that is starting to go out of range and not letting the torque converter unlock, or the converter itself is sticking.

if you have a scan tool, pull the codes and see what tests you need to run to determine the problem.
 
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