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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all.

I know all of you get flooded with heating problems this time of year, and I have been one of those for the last 2 years now! My car never heated properly, and i just found out recently that it had the "brown coolant" issue.
So far, I have done these things. I changed the coolant, it was very brown and dark when it came out, and I put a 197F thermostat in with the jiggle valve in 12-o'clock position. Doing that hardly made an iota of a difference.

The temperature used to go up slowly, but now it goes up a bit faster because of the new thermostat/coolant I guess. The thing is the damn heater never blows warm air! Or slightly warm air when on the highway. My '98 Mystique will run for 5 minutes, and its already blowing warmer than my Sable. I'm getting tired of freezing during local commutes. Does anybody have suggestions?
 

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Did you try to flush your heater core? I bought my car in the Summer, did a coolant change. Then with arrival of the Fall, I've discovered ho heat issue and brown coolant. So, I did 'Clinton Flush' with addition of sucking out bottom of expansion tank with Wet/Dry vacuum. Read it here: http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/98-...29385-writeup-clinton-gen-3-heater-flush.html

P.S. Don't forget to put new coolant instead of brown that you have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is it necessary to drain out the coolant when doing this? I checked it out, and it looks like when you disconnect from the engine block, all the coolant will run out of the block because the connection is at a lower point.
 

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Why not try using liquid plumber gel to clean out your HC. What you do is disconnect both hoses, you'll have too loosen alternator bracket to get at the one on water pump. And of course the one at the block. Next, extend the WP hose somehow with a small metal tube or something like that. Then ad about a 2 ft link of hose to this. Put a funnel in this assembly. Pour a little bit of LP gel in funnel letting gravity force it down to core. make sure you pinch of bypass crossover with vice grips or something. After about half an hour run garden hose thru hose flushing it out. Imade the same suggestion to another member couple of months back, but I dont think he tried it'. I think he was concerned tha he my damage something with the LPG. BUT i did this in my '02 vulcan last november and it worked out fine for me plenty of heat. I got this idea online from a man who says his nephew,a mechanic, recomended it.Good Luck!
 

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Liquid Plumber may well clean out your heater core, but it will shorten it's life by at least 5 years, minimum. Do it the right way, NO L.P....
 

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I used clr as suggested without reading the bottle label. It gave me heat...... and a pass. floorboard leak. Ended up changing out the heater core.
Those are some pretty strong chemicals for these little heater cores. Thats stuff is made for thicker copper and even iron pipe, not thin copper or aluminum. I'm sure they will clean great, but at what cost????

You can try to back flush and even pressure clean it, but more times that anything you will be changing the core soon.
 

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Just had top replace a leaking heater core in my daughters 2001.

Very little heat.

Now she has tons of heat.

Feel heater hoses going into and out of the core on the firewall when car is warmed up. They should feel the same temp.

These cars really need the coolant changed at reasonable intervals to keep th rust issue in check.

Seems like adding an anti rust additive would be a good idea too.
 

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I used CLR to flush mine and it got me heat and a leak. Dont know for sure if it was its corrosive properties or the core was about ready to go anyway? Maybe it just cleaned away some old stop leak that was working but plugging the core. I picked a fine time to read the bottle label.....after i had used it! Label said not to be used on aluminum, copper or brass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well I guess I'll flush the heater core this weekend. I've read and heard all the horror stories about using CLR or liquid plumber, so I'll just use some prestone super flush. My dad always said that a chemical reaction to loosen the calcium or whatever is built up in there will happen better when temperatures are hot. Maybe I'll heat the cleaner up a little bit before pouring it in. What I do need to know though is the direction for pouring it in. Will I pour it in opposite the flow (hose going to water pump) or the heater inlet (the hose connected to the engine block). I use these hoses to eliminate having to remove the hoses from the heater core tubes.

All of you guys are a great help, so any answers would be appreciated.
 

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Thats exactly how i did it and poured the solution in both hoses. If its not freezing up there yet, you could fill the system with water and a bottle of cleaner or flush and drive it for a few days to a week prior flushing out and refilling. Good idea not to disturb those fragile heater core nipples!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok. I finished flushing my heater core today, and I get loads of heat! YEAHHHH! First of all, my thanks go out to OldWagon for his thread on the Clinton Heater Flush, which worked amazingly, and to all the other people who helped me out along the way. I do have to ask something though. When I ran the car with the vice-grip pinching the bypass, I got heater temperatures in the 150-160F range. That's pretty damn hot if you ask me. When I removed the vice grip, it seemed a tad cooler. So what I did was make a clamp with two screws and two pieces of wood. I clamped the bypass completely off. Is this a good idea?
 
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