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Discussion Starter #1
I just flushed my coolant, replaced my thermostat, I am preying it was because I bought a cheap one from autozone, because the one I picked up today was a lot better from carquest, was absent of the 'jiggle valve' autozones had on it. Anyway I get no heat, well I do get some heat, but not a lot. I have replaced the coolant after flushing it with some new, I put 50/50 in it, and it didn't seem to help. Even after the car is at max operating temp, with the blower on full blast it blows warm, but not hot air. The heatercore does not appear to be stopped, leaking, or even bad. The water pump seems to be pumping right. I did let it run for a bit, and I felt the top radiator hose, and it did take forever to warm up, and when it did, it seemed like it wasn't flowing very well through the thermostat. The water pump isn't leaking, and when I flushed it, I could hear it pumping.

I have another question, is there a programmer, or tuner thing for the OHV Vulcan V6? I have heard there was, then I heard there wasn't. I also was wondering what would be required to make my car have a cold air intake, or even perhaps just a cone filter like you see on some of these other cars... I had heard of people making their own work, which is not really a big deal, but what about that sensor on the side, I would need that I know, theres also a little grey colored thing that I can clearly see up inside the air-intake hose that has a little hole, is that something I'd need to put in the new air filter system if I did ?
 

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These engine don't like aftermarket thermostats. Try getting a Motorcraft thermostat and see if that fixes the problem.

Yes, SHOZ123 is the person you'd want to contact regarding a tuner.
 

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If it didn't seem like it was flowing very well, it could be the water pump, but I would rule out the thermostat, and the possibility of a clogged heater core before going through the trouble of replacing the water pump. If you've read other threads on this problem, the Vulcan engines don't always overheat when the pumps go bad, they start to have no/low heat problems first. Are both heater hoses hot, both warm, or one hot, the other warm or cold?
 

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I also was wondering what would be required to make my car have a cold air intake, or even perhaps just a cone filter like you see on some of these other cars... I had heard of people making their own work, which is not really a big deal, but what about that sensor on the side, I would need that I know, theres also a little grey colored thing that I can clearly see up inside the air-intake hose that has a little hole, is that something I'd need to put in the new air filter system if I did ?
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It's not worth the effort, because the stock air intake is more than enough for what the engines need. That sensor is the MAF, and it's location is tuned to the rest of the intake. Too much of a hassle for zero gain.

People have done it but if you're looking for a "better" setup there isn't one.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If it didn't seem like it was flowing very well, it could be the water pump, but I would rule out the thermostat, and the possibility of a clogged heater core before going through the trouble of replacing the water pump. If you've read other threads on this problem, the Vulcan engines don't always overheat when the pumps go bad, they start to have no/low heat problems first. Are both heater hoses hot, both warm, or one hot, the other warm or cold?
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Actually they were both extremely hot. The one where the thermostat was took long time to get hot, even after the engine was well in range of operating temperature. I got a thermostat from carquest. As for back flushing, I did buy a kit, didn't use the clamp though, and I was unsuccessful at getting the bottom radiator hose to drain it from there. As far as flushing I just undid the cap on the overflow, and let it flush from there, and it was pretty dirty I must say, however it didn't help. I cut into the little hose that crosses, which I found weird.
 

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Then it could be the blend door actuator, it opens and closes the blend door from the heater core. The hose that crosses I think is the heater core bypass.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Then it could be the blend door actuator, it opens and closes the blend door from the heater core. The hose that crosses I think is the heater core bypass.
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thats where I put the flush to begin with. I tied into it there. It was an actual kit that I purchased from PEAK at my local advanced auto. I probably didn't flush it very well, but that door you're speaking of what would make it do this?

My car is very weird. When I flushed it, it appeared to even get worse, but then better to sort of. I drove it for a bit and at one point it was putting out hot enough air that I couldn't bare it, and then I shut it off, and went inside, started it about 30-45 minutes later and to my disappointment it didn't get hot again, even after I drove it back home, which isn't that far but far enough it should be producing heat. Since then I've driven it greater distances, and its not really ever produced very good since. It does seem to produce better heat when I floor it then it does when I don't, but again the thermostat was what lead me to believe it wasn't opening far enough, and the weird way the thermostat looked with some little 'jiggle valve' on it, it was flimsy and lighter then the one I got from carquest which doesn't have a 'jiggle valve'. I believe it was a valuecraft that I got from autozone.

Anyway once I get the car back I am going to try a few things that people have recommended on here, hopefully it will give better results. If it was the actuator door where would I find it? I am a diesel guy, and these little engines are new to me really. I mean I never worked on them before, or been interested until now. Either way its a Ford, and I do love all of my Fords they've been great!
 
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