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Here's the scoop. I installed 2 bass shakers, hooked them up to my amp, to the same channel my subs are on (2 polk 10's). Switched on the stereo and everything worked for about a half second, then i lost all the speakers/subs that are hooked to the amp. None of the fuses are blown anywere. I unhooked the bass shakers and now the amp turns on, and stays on, as long as the volume is at or below 4. anything higher and it cuts out. there is also a faint beep when the whole audio system turns on. Any ideas?
oh, and it's a 600W 4 channel Jensen (i know...there's the problem, it's a jensen)
 

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What is your charging voltage like? Jensen is not neccearily the best amplifer, but IF it can't run on anything lower than 12 or 13, then you could run into a lack of power. it is possible the amp is toast, altohough my first bet would be it would either not turn on, or stay in protect mode.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don't think that's the problem. I drove around for a couple hours today and it still wouldn't come on. Any other ideas?
 

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your remote wire isn't shorted out some where is it? un plug it and just get a small wire and touch the positive battery terminal and the remote connector at the same time.. do that with the car off so your only giving the remote lead a 12.5 volt charge..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
all the wires are connected good and strong. is it possible that i put too much of a load on one channel?
 

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I dunno, did you just wire everything up in paralell? like the subs pos-pos-and the shakers pos-pos-pos? cuz if thats what you did that you probably reduced the impedance down to like 1/2 ohm or something on a cheap amp.. perhaps it is toast...
 

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here's how everything is wired up.... I'm not the greatest at audio setup, so that's why it's so screwed up, and probably why the amp when kaflewie... the subs are running on the same channel, each one has seperate wires going to the amp, and the bass shakers run off of one set of wires, and also on the same channel as the subs (probably my downfall right there) the 6x8's run off different channels
 

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I imagine you downloaded the one channel to low and it over heated so fast the amps thermal protection didn'tr have time to kick in. if it has one. I'd start looking around for a new amp
 

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yeah...one step ahead of you on looking for a new amp...hehe. sucks though because I just dropped a lot of money on rims and tires.
 

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Well, went down to Enormis Audio and orderd a Pioneer 1000W Class D amp... got a good deal on it too... It pays to know people who know people.
I'm going to take apart the jensen to see if i can find out what went wrong... I'm hoping there will be some melted metal or something cool like that
 

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ya sounds like u had alot of stuff on that 1 amp. maybe too much)
 

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Just be careful you dont wire it wrong, then s*** starts smoking and people start swearing.......

You had to be there.

-DC
 

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You definitely underloaded that amp and probably fried the power supply. It's fixable, but on a Jensen I wouldn't worry about it.

What's the model of the Pioneer amp? Knowing Pioneer it will be rated for 1000 watts and put out about 400. :|
 

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PIGMD510M... brand new amp, just came out. i was talking to the owner of the store and he assured me it would put out more than 400
 

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Originally posted by Ryne@Mar 7 2004, 02:42 AM
here's how everything is wired up.... I'm not the greatest at audio setup, so that's why it's so screwed up, and probably why the amp when kaflewie... the subs are running on the same channel, each one has seperate wires going to the amp, and the bass shakers run off of one set of wires, and also on the same channel as the subs (probably my downfall right there) the 6x8's run off different channels
Okay, have you ever heard of polarity? What about parallel vs. series wiring? Speakers must be wired in phase with proper polarity. All + leads go to + leads , and all - leads go to- leads to be wired parallel. That means 2 8 ohm speakers, wired in parallel will give you a 4 ohm load. If you run a + lead off one speaker to the - off the next, it becomes a series hookup. That means 2 8 ohms speakers would then have 16 ohm impedance. Now, on to the idea of phase. It's real important that all speakers move in the same direction when positive voltage is applied across the + terminal. You can check it with the + side of a 9 volt battery. See if the cone of the speaker moves out, or in. If, with the voltage applied on the + terminal, the speaker cone moves in, then you must reverse the wiring and make the - lead the positive..... Understand?? If you have these speakers wired wrong, they will OVERHEAT the cones, warp them, and overheat the amp!!!!!! Maybe any of the above are your problems.
 

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all my positive, or power, wires go to positive terminals, and the same with negative, or ground, wires. So, this would give my two 4 ohm speakers a 2 ohm load on the amp, if I understand correctly.

So anyway.... I got a 1000W Pioneer Class D mono amp. Subs wired on it in what would be the equivalent to parallel wireing (each sub has it's own positive and negative wire going to the amp) Can I put the bass shakers on there too, or should I get another amp for those? I'm thinking another amp....
 

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Definitely another amp. Say if your amp puts out 250x2 @ 2 ohms (example) If you put those right on in parallel with the subs the bass shakers and the subs will be getting 125 watts RMS. Not good enough for your subs, bad for your bass shakers. You could always use some crappy Pyle amp or something for the bass shakers, they don't exactly need a lot of power nor do you need good SQ out of them.

If your amp is a 2 channel you may eventually want to get some dvc 4 ohm voice coil subs so you can run 2 ohms per side and get the most out of it. Unless the amp is 1 ohm stable stereo and 2 ohm stable bridged, then you could bridge the amp and run both of your subs parallel.

post the specs on the amp when you get it.


edit - The amp is mono? Much, much better. You told me yesterday it was 2 channel...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
yeah, mono amp...wasn't thinkin when i talked to you. that happens a lot at night...

specs:
Puissance maximale de sortie... oh wait, that's the french side....*flips paper over*

continuous power = 300W X 1 @ 4 ohms
500W X 1 @ 2 ohms
can handle 2-8 ohms... Pioneer GM-D510M. Makes the subs hit and sound better than the crappy jensen. I can get them to play a lot louder before they distort...
 

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Originally posted by Ryne@Mar 10 2004, 03:39 PM
all my positive, or power, wires go to positive terminals, and the same with negative, or ground, wires. So, this would give my two 4 ohm speakers a 2 ohm load on the amp, if I understand correctly.

So anyway.... I got a 1000W Pioneer Class D mono amp. Subs wired on it in what would be the equivalent to parallel wireing (each sub has it's own positive and negative wire going to the amp) Can I put the bass shakers on there too, or should I get another amp for those? I'm thinking another amp....
What is the nominal impedance load that your amp is designed for??? Usually it's 4 ohms. If you are running a 2 ohm load, you are frying the output transistors in the amp and it will shut down and/or burn up. Effectively, you are making the amp work twice as hard as it's designed for. If your amp needs a 4 ohm load, wire the speakers up in series. Split the fronts and rears up into "zones" so you have a proper impedance load presented to the amp. There's one thing I really know, and that's hooking up stereos and electronic equipment!
 
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