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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
At start up my car runs between 13.7-14.1 volts. From there it slowly goes down. In Florida the air runs on High mostly and both cooling fans are running at high speed also but if I drive the car from work to day care to home I usually stay between 12.7 to 13.2 but if I have to run around some more the volts tend to get lower and dip into the the high 11's and my car starts freaking out and sometimes stall. Originally I thought it was a IAC Valve and I replaced it and it seemed to go away for awhile but now I can see my volts whereas before I could not.

When the car stalls I put in 'N' and it starts right back up with no problems and I have never had problems after a stall.

Also, I have never seen a battery light come on either when it starts acting up- reving up and down/bucking but it is neat to see the oil pressure gauge dancing...

Thanks for any help!
 

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I would suspect the alternator, however, the car should not stall from the lack of a functional alternator until battery voltage drops below 9 volts. Below 9 volts, the KAM, Keep Alive Memory, gets erased and will produce terrible driveability and the possibility for stalling, especially if the voltage drops much lower than that.

I believe you have several issues, but dropping below 12.5 volts while driving is definitely a charging system issue.
 

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I would suspect the battery. Heat kills batteries, it also hurts "reserve power". If your stopped at a light, with the a/c blower on high, the cooling fans are on high, the alt dosen't put out enough amps at idle to power all those things, so it depends on the battery to keep things going. I would have your battery and charging system checked, Walmart and Autozone will do that for free. If you need a new battery, buy the more expensive one, like the Everstart Maxx (Walmart), that has more reserve capacity, since you also live in a hotter climate. Mine needed a new battery when my car was only 1 year old. You should also check the cables, and battery water level.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for your insight! Now it makes since with the iratice idle and stalling. This weekend I pulled my old IAC out of the box it had been sitting in for the past couple of months and sprayed the hell out of it with Carb Cleaner then rebolted it to the motor and I haven't had a problem with the idle/stalling since.

Now that I know the battery is about fried I am going to start pricing them out so I don't have any future, unexpected, problems.
 

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there is a small control wire that goes to the alternator that controls
charging. If this terminal losses tension, the alternator output can get flaky.
It could be just the connection, NOT the alternator. they sell pig tail
replacement kits to change the harness side connector.

When you have a low voltage condition, wiggle the alternator wires
and see if anything changes.
 
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