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Good video. I haven't been able to get my hands on a new enough vehicle with a scan tool to check that out personally, but it is something to keep in mind. Only thing is I wish you would have shown are the battery terminals with the temp/current sensor so people know if they have the newer system or not.

I want to know what happens if they replace the battery but don't reset the battery age. Will the battery not get charged fully? You can almost bet anyone that changes a battery besides the dealer will not know about this.

Since you have a IDS, could you do a video about how to enable or disable DRLs? It would help some folks on here to prove it can be done for dealers that aren't as familiar with available SJB options.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Good video. I haven't been able to get my hands on a new enough vehicle with a scan tool to check that out personally, but it is something to keep in mind. Only thing is I wish you would have shown are the battery terminals with the temp/current sensor so people know if they have the newer system or not.

I want to know what happens if they replace the battery but don't reset the battery age. Will the battery not get charged fully? You can almost bet anyone that changes a battery besides the dealer will not know about this.

Since you have a IDS, could you do a video about how to enable or disable DRLs? It would help some folks on here to prove it can be done for dealers that aren't as familiar with available SJB options.
The temp is inferred still from the iat sensor. As far as showing the current clamps Yes I could have but decided to just post this only in the forum section where the system is present and also titled it for which model years it is on too. All 2013 and newer Taurus vehicles have this system.
Here is info on what happens when you don't reset the battery-

If the vehicle battery is replaced, carry out the Battery Monitoring System Reset using the scan tool. If the Battery Monitoring System Reset is not carried out, measurement data collected for the old battery is not deleted and future state of charge measurements will be inaccurate. For example, if an old battery has a state of charge of 60% and the new battery has a state of charge of 90%, the BCM will recognize battery state of charge being 30% lower than it actually is. With the battery state of charge being perceived lower than it actually is causes shedding of loads earlier than is necessary. This also impacts the smart regenerative charge system by causing the battery to be maintained at a higher state of charge than perceived by the BCM, reducing fuel economy benefits.

The enabling and disabling of DRL is spotty at best I have only seen this option available to us in the sjb parameters on a handful of vehicles.
 

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So, I have to visit the dealer after changing the battery? No other way to reset?
Correct, it will relearn it but it will not know the age of it which is a big part of the charging strategy software. Ford is very adament about us not resetting the age unless told to or battery has been replaced.
 

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I have another question. Let's say I decide to charge my battery overnight. Will the system adapt to that the next time it's started? Same is true if you had a parasitic draw that drains the battery a good amount overnight? Do you know how long it takes to adapt to a sudden change in battery state?
 

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I have another question. Let's say I decide to charge my battery overnight. Will the system adapt to that the next time it's started? Same is true if you had a parasitic draw that drains the battery a good amount overnight? Do you know how long it takes to adapt to a sudden change in battery state?
I think this is what you are looking for. Basically the system will note a parasitic draw overnight yes, and as long as you connect a charger to the batter positive post and the body ground post and not the battery neg terminal it will note the new charge correctly also.

If the vehicle battery is charged by connecting the battery charger to the battery negative terminal or the battery is replaced, carry out the BMS Reset using the scan tool. If the BMS Reset is not carried out, it takes approximately 8 hours for the BCM to learn the new battery state of charge. During this 8 hour period, the vehicle must be undisturbed, with no doors opened or keyless entry button presses. If the vehicle is used before the BCM is allowed to learn the new battery state of charge, engine off load shedding can still occur and a message may display.
If the vehicle battery is charged by connecting the battery charger to the engine or chassis ground, the BMS Reset using the scan tool is not necessary.
 

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Well, it's good to know they did add an auto-learning provision to account for people that don't do it right. Good info if you hook up a battery charger.

FYI, it looks like FORScan can be used to do the battery monitoring system reset (version 2.1.9 and later).
 

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When my Taurus was new, the battery was shot when I tried to leave the lot. They replaced it and off I went. However, they never ran the reset procedure as they should have.

The car is at 200 days, I estimate the battery is closer to 80 days. I imagine that the battery has recalibrated by now (has had countless opportunities to sit idle for the BCM to get a new hold on the battery).

Any reason to reset it anyway, now that I have a scan tool to do it? Or leave it alone?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
When my Taurus was new, the battery was shot when I tried to leave the lot. They replaced it and off I went. However, they never ran the reset procedure as they should have.

The car is at 200 days, I estimate the battery is closer to 80 days. I imagine that the battery has recalibrated by now (has had countless opportunities to sit idle for the BCM to get a new hold on the battery).

Any reason to reset it anyway, now that I have a scan tool to do it? Or leave it alone?
I would not reset the life unless you have a battery charger to bring it to full capacity or after a long drive 30min or more of driving not stop and go then reset it.
 

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Yeah, these systems scare me away from buying a new car. I'm sure I'll have to upgrade eventually, but...
 

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Yeah, these systems scare me away from buying a new car. I'm sure I'll have to upgrade eventually, but...
What's so scary about it? I mean, it's a massive PITA to have to reset another system, but if it's making better use of the battery and charging system...
 

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What's so scary about it? I mean, it's a massive PITA to have to reset another system, but if it's making better use of the battery and charging system...
Because it's one more system to break ten years down the road. :lol2:
 

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This thread is very informative, I was wondering if you could comment on aftermarket stereo installations WRT alternator loading and secondary batteries.

So I added a 0awg from my front battery to the chassis and noticed my volts DROPPED about 0.5v. After seeing your video about the current clamp, i took the 0awg off, my volts went back up. To supplement again I fished a 4awg through the clamp ring and grounded to the chassis. My volts seem fine. I basically want to take advantage of the large stock battery to supplement the car audio amplifier install, and make sure the alternator ramps up appropriately when its under load.

1) Do you know if a '14 taurus would have a current clamp also on the positive side? I didn't see one.

2) Do you know the part number for this current clamp & would I be able to add additional current clamps and splice in parallel or something to feed data to PCM about additional loads?

3) Do you know how additional batteries effect alternator load? I have some car audio batteries in my spare tire well and I'm wondering how this affects the new way it does charging.
 

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This thread is very informative, I was wondering if you could comment on aftermarket stereo installations WRT alternator loading and secondary batteries.

So I added a 0awg from my front battery to the chassis and noticed my volts DROPPED about 0.5v. After seeing your video about the current clamp, i took the 0awg off, my volts went back up. To supplement again I fished a 4awg through the clamp ring and grounded to the chassis. My volts seem fine. I basically want to take advantage of the large stock battery to supplement the car audio amplifier install, and make sure the alternator ramps up appropriately when its under load.

1) Do you know if a '14 taurus would have a current clamp also on the positive side? I didn't see one.

2) Do you know the part number for this current clamp & would I be able to add additional current clamps and splice in parallel or something to feed data to PCM about additional loads?

3) Do you know how additional batteries effect alternator load? I have some car audio batteries in my spare tire well and I'm wondering how this affects the new way it does charging.
1 No still on the negative side only
2 That clamp is pulse width modulated so there can only be one input.
3 The charging is still done all based on battery voltage so it should, it used the amp clamps more for batter load shed strategy key off loads and calculating state of charge which also includes the voltage itself.
 

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The issue with the car audio batteries is that they sit at a higher voltage. so with the car off my factory front battery may be about 12.6v, and my car audio batteries will sit at about 13.6v. I'm wondering if those batts will artificially inflate the line voltage the pcm is reading for its calculations and delay the charging. I'm currently using a relay to turn link the rear batts in after ignition, but I suppose I could swap that to a battery isolator instead to alleviate a voltage issue like that.
 
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