The temp is inferred still from the iat sensor. As far as showing the current clamps Yes I could have but decided to just post this only in the forum section where the system is present and also titled it for which model years it is on too. All 2013 and newer Taurus vehicles have this system.Good video. I haven't been able to get my hands on a new enough vehicle with a scan tool to check that out personally, but it is something to keep in mind. Only thing is I wish you would have shown are the battery terminals with the temp/current sensor so people know if they have the newer system or not.
I want to know what happens if they replace the battery but don't reset the battery age. Will the battery not get charged fully? You can almost bet anyone that changes a battery besides the dealer will not know about this.
Since you have a IDS, could you do a video about how to enable or disable DRLs? It would help some folks on here to prove it can be done for dealers that aren't as familiar with available SJB options.
Correct, it will relearn it but it will not know the age of it which is a big part of the charging strategy software. Ford is very adament about us not resetting the age unless told to or battery has been replaced.So, I have to visit the dealer after changing the battery? No other way to reset?
I think this is what you are looking for. Basically the system will note a parasitic draw overnight yes, and as long as you connect a charger to the batter positive post and the body ground post and not the battery neg terminal it will note the new charge correctly also.I have another question. Let's say I decide to charge my battery overnight. Will the system adapt to that the next time it's started? Same is true if you had a parasitic draw that drains the battery a good amount overnight? Do you know how long it takes to adapt to a sudden change in battery state?
I would not reset the life unless you have a battery charger to bring it to full capacity or after a long drive 30min or more of driving not stop and go then reset it.When my Taurus was new, the battery was shot when I tried to leave the lot. They replaced it and off I went. However, they never ran the reset procedure as they should have.
The car is at 200 days, I estimate the battery is closer to 80 days. I imagine that the battery has recalibrated by now (has had countless opportunities to sit idle for the BCM to get a new hold on the battery).
Any reason to reset it anyway, now that I have a scan tool to do it? Or leave it alone?
What's so scary about it? I mean, it's a massive PITA to have to reset another system, but if it's making better use of the battery and charging system...Yeah, these systems scare me away from buying a new car. I'm sure I'll have to upgrade eventually, but...
1 No still on the negative side onlyThis thread is very informative, I was wondering if you could comment on aftermarket stereo installations WRT alternator loading and secondary batteries.
So I added a 0awg from my front battery to the chassis and noticed my volts DROPPED about 0.5v. After seeing your video about the current clamp, i took the 0awg off, my volts went back up. To supplement again I fished a 4awg through the clamp ring and grounded to the chassis. My volts seem fine. I basically want to take advantage of the large stock battery to supplement the car audio amplifier install, and make sure the alternator ramps up appropriately when its under load.
1) Do you know if a '14 taurus would have a current clamp also on the positive side? I didn't see one.
2) Do you know the part number for this current clamp & would I be able to add additional current clamps and splice in parallel or something to feed data to PCM about additional loads?
3) Do you know how additional batteries effect alternator load? I have some car audio batteries in my spare tire well and I'm wondering how this affects the new way it does charging.