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Trying to figure out a front end problem : Vehicle pulls to the right, the top of the left wheel is tilted in more than the bottom(negative camber?)but the right wheel looks fine, and the front tires both have much more inner tread wear.

I tried to check the ball joints and tie rods by moving the wheel left to right and up and down but there was no play. However, only the front left wheel was off the ground - do both front wheels have to be off the ground for this test?
 

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Trying to figure out a front end problem : Vehicle pulls to the right, the top of the left wheel is tilted in more than the bottom(negative camber?)but the right wheel looks fine, and the front tires both have much more inner tread wear.

I tried to check the ball joints and tie rods by moving the wheel left to right and up and down but there was no play. However, only the front left wheel was off the ground - do both front wheels have to be off the ground for this test?
[/b]

Both wheels need to be off the ground. Grab at 12 o'clock and 6, then 3 and 9. Yes, what you described is high negative camber and that will cause inner tire wear.
 

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QUOTE (spridget @ Feb 16 2009, 06:20 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=702875
QUOTE (G2 Street Taurus @ Feb 16 2009, 04:02 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=702866
Trying to figure out a front end problem : Vehicle pulls to the right, the top of the left wheel is tilted in more than the bottom(negative camber?)but the right wheel looks fine, and the front tires both have much more inner tread wear.

I tried to check the ball joints and tie rods by moving the wheel left to right and up and down but there was no play. However, only the front left wheel was off the ground - do both front wheels have to be off the ground for this test?[/b]

Both wheels need to be off the ground. Grab at 12 o'clock and 6, then 3 and 9. Yes, what you described is high negative camber and that will cause inner tire wear.
[/b][/quote]

The caster/camber is *not adjustable* (without drilling out the top plate). Mine was out, like yours, and I found that the top mount in the strut had badly cracked rubber. I replaced the struts mounts, and upper bearings.
Stupid AAA repair place blamed my problems on inner tie rod and bearings on passenger side only. My outer tie rod on the drivers side was bad, and there was minimal bearing play, so I also bought new hubs and bearings too. total: about $500 from Rock Auto. This $%#^ car better last, since I also put in a new tranny this year too.
 

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You can adjust the caster/camber slightly by moving the subframe. Moving it left/right will adjust camber (on both sides at the same time) and moving it forward or back will adjust caster. Depending on how far out of spec it is, it could possibly be set right again just by shifting the subframe, without having to drill out and move the strut mounting plates.
 

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Start by checking for wear before buying parts. The tierod ends on GenI and GenII have a usable service life of about 100K miles. So if you haven't replacement already, the odds are that they are shot.

The rubber upper strut mounts deform and crack with age, and this could be the cause of your camber problem, if hitting the curb and bending the inner fender/s was not. You can buy camber plates and have them installed to correct the problem, but they are not cheap. So, it pays to try replacing the upper strut mounts first.

Don't buy cheap strut mounts. The ones sold by NAPA are sourced from the Lowest Bidder and the ones that I looked at were very poor quality. I ended up buying new Ford parts. Mkake sure that you replace the bearings at the same time. Test the struts to see if they are any good while you have them off. If you have more than 100K miles on them the odds are that they are dead. The old technique of bouncing the car to see if the struts and shocks are any good does not work any more. Springs are too stiff to allow the bounce you need to determine strut and shock condition. You're probably better off just replacing them while you are in there.
 
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