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I have a 2002 Sable with the 3.0 Vulcan I just picked up with about 110K on the engine.
It had the intermittent squeal which is a classic symtom of the cam syncronizer going! Thanks to all the help and advice on this forum, I replaced it last Friday for a total cost of about $56.00 for a A1Cardone reman unit!
Everyone on this forum said to stay away from the Doorman, so I got a re manufactured unit made by A1 Cardone at Parts Plus auto parts.
The unit appears to be a Ford OEM, as the part number matched OEM Ford I believe. Folks on this forum said the A1 Cardone seemed OK, better than the Doorman, so that's what I got!
The re man units came complete with a new cam Position sensor, all for $54.00 plus tax with a $40.00 core. The only tricky thing was when they ordered it, they ask if it has the "step down" connector, or staright non step connector. I had no clue, so I orded both, and figured I would just return the one that was wrong. This step down thing is simply the style of electrical connector on the sensor itself. Its easy to tell by looking which one you have! But really the only way to tell is if you pull the connector of before hand.
The removal and install was easy! Moving the wire bundle and tray it sits in is the worse part of it! That takes longer than the rest of it! make sure you mark the old one before you memove it, so your timing is exactly the same with the new one! there are several posts with this procedure in this forum!

Thanks
 

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I had a local mechanic replace the cheap Chinese syncro with the OEM part. Another mechanic I had pulled the OEM part (for no reason), charged me $700, and then the pin fell out and jammed my oil pump.

I paid $200 from Ford to get the real deal. I'm just worried the mechanic pocketed the part I gave him and put another cheap chinese part in because I'm having some issues.

I'm still getting hesitation when driving on the freeway. If I let up on the accelerator, the engine downshifts.

Does anyone know what causes this? Someone mentioned the cam sensor.
 

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I replaced mine with Dorman part#689-117 about 15k miles ago. So far so good. I think the most important part is when you are placing it back into the motor that you slightly advance the pin, that way when it slides over the curved gear on the cam, the pin will fall back into the gap so that the alignment cap will fit. If you're just dropping it in you are asking for trouble.
 

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Very good info, glad I studied this before I picked up a Reman Cardone cam synchronizer yesterday. I will keep posted on how it turns out.
 

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Check the Cardone part before you take it - I ordered one and got one that was remanufactured by cutting the upper housing off and bonding a replacement one on. It had much more play than the 120k mile failing one it replaced, and I could make it chirp turning it by hand, so I took it back.

I drowned the original one in oil and put it back in for another two days while I waited on the OEM part. RockAuto has it for $95 with no core.
 

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Discussion Starter #208
>>>>>update<<<<<<

I pulled the A1-Cardone unit from my mothers 98......Looks great with minimal wear on gear. The mileage is at 238,0000 at this point and been several year since I put it in back at the start of this thread. My wife and brothers also no problems either.

GOD Bless,

Pro Ford
 

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96 Ford Taurus GL
3.0L OHV

I am going to replace the synchronizer tomorrow and the old one is still in place. I have a few questions.

I just purchased a cam synchronizer from RPT (limited life time warranty)
Part number FD37. It is Chinese made and there is a little play in the shaft. It's approx 1/16th of an inch. I marked the place with a red circle.

The pin appears to be solid. I am just trying to figure out IF there should be any play in the shaft. Are there any concerns in putting this in?
 

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Well this appears to be a waste of time. I replaced the synchronizer with a new RPT one and its squealing...

Is there a chance that this part is defective. It did have a small amount of play in the shaft as I noted in the last post.

Is it worth pulling it out and getting a different one? The squeal goes away once the car is hot and has been driven for a few miles.

The squeal is definitely coming from the cam area! Is there something I have overlooked?

I oiled up the gear and shaft and I also put oil in the cam sensor hole.

Any help appreciated.
 

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try putting motorcraft into it, if that doesnt work start looking at pulleys, and worst case scenario tis something in your transmission
 

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try putting motorcraft into it, if that doesnt work start looking at pulleys, and worst case scenario tis something in your transmission
I replaced the idler pulley and belt as it was squealing, a few months ago. The tranny seems to shift well. I sure hope its not that. Is there a good way to check it? I also changed the fluid less than a year ago.

I pulled the old cam sensor/syncho and there was play in the shaft - more than in the new one. It was also a remanufactured one from Mexico.

I don't know if any codes are being thrown as this is a 96 and I don't think you can hook it up to a code checker. If I'm wrong, let me know.
 

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Well this appears to be a waste of time. I replaced the synchronizer with a new RPT one and its squealing...

Is there a chance that this part is defective. It did have a small amount of play in the shaft as I noted in the last post.

Is it worth pulling it out and getting a different one? The squeal goes away once the car is hot and has been driven for a few miles.

The squeal is definitely coming from the cam area! Is there something I have overlooked?

I oiled up the gear and shaft and I also put oil in the cam sensor hole.

Any help appreciated.

Did the new synchro come out of a MOTORCRAFT box?

This thread is over 20 pages and over 200 comments - How many times has it been advised to be sure to buy a MOTORCRAFT synchro...10 times, 50 times?

:rolleyes2: :rolleyes2: :rolleyes2::rolleyes2::rolleyes2::rolleyes2::rolleyes2::rolleyes2::rolleyes2::rolleyes2::rolleyes2::rolleyes2::rolleyes2:
 

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Did the new synchro come out of a MOTORCRAFT box?

This thread is over 20 pages and over 200 comments - How many times has it been advised to be sure to buy a MOTORCRAFT synchro...10 times, 50 times?

:rolleyes2: :rolleyes2: :rolleyes2::rolleyes2::rolleyes2::rolleyes2::rolleyes2::rolleyes2::rolleyes2::rolleyes2::rolleyes2::rolleyes2::rolleyes2:
And your post is helpful how? I know I screwed up. I appreciate you telling me off and letting me know that I screwed up.
 

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And your post is helpful how? I know I screwed up. I appreciate you telling me off and letting me know that I screwed up.
Sorry, Dude.... you're right. You didn't deserve my spouting off. :oops:

Hopefully, you were able to get your car running better in spite of my bad behavior.

Ryan W
 

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It's all good. No worries.

The Motorcraft one is working well and has no issues.

For others reading this post, learn from MY mistake, don't go cheap, get the OEM one.


Sorry, Dude.... you're right. You didn't deserve my spouting off. :oops:

Ryan W
 

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Tried this cam synchroniser anyway

The posts described it not fitting and not lasting, but were from 2007, its 2013 now.
I call a parts dealer asked him for his history of returns. Said they had problems in the past but they are selling and have not had returns for the last year and a half.
Its a simple fix, it has a guarantee so I went for the discount, Went in nicely, which was good sign as descriptions i read said it didn't always fit well. Been good for a week now.
However, the cam sensor that comes with it would not plug into my 99 24 OHCV so I used the old sensor.
 

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tried the cam synchroniser anyway

That was the dorman I tried.
After reading several more posts I think this is worth pointing out.
You don't need to find TDC. Put it back in exactly as it was.
When installing it is easy to drop it correctly Aligning the gears, as many have described.
The trick is too later turn the device itself a little so the cam sensor lines up with the single tooth exactly as it was. I can see where this could easily be off a few degrees. Then tighten it down.
I would think this has to effect your timing, in the past I would of used a timing light to get this position just right on a distributor.
 

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I just replaced all of these with dealer items. i am getting ingition distfibutor engine speed input circuit malfunction. The car starts for 20 seconds and dies and this is the code every time. Sure could use some help on this one!
 
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