Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

181 - 200 of 234 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
...snip...

6. Bend wiring loom/harness up and out of way, hold it firmly with one hand 1 Minute.

...snip...

First, thanks to all for the great info in this thread, it has definitely saved me a few hundred bucks in the shop. Specifically, thanks to supersmacker for the step-by-step walk-through. I found the Haynes manual to be inadequate for this particular job.

Just a general comment for the next person taking this on... the above step was a SERIOUS pain in the butt for me. I struggled with getting the harness out of the way due to the plastic channel it sits in. It took me about an hour to figure out how to get it up high enough to get at the synchronizer & sensor. I ended up just saying eff it, & applying some serious elbow grease to get it out of the way.

Total time for this job for me was about 3.5hr --- I'm not a mechanic & I ended up having a neighbor talking with me for about 2 hours; combine that with the fact that I was taking my time to begin with, so I have no doubt that people could get this done in an hour.

I'd think that just about anyone that knew their way around the business end of a socket set could take on this job in an hour or two.

Thanks again! :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,300 Posts
What matters is the RELATIVE POSITION of the synchronizer housing and the timing tab as shown here.
http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/attachments/maintenance-repair/60278d1284237177-cam-synchro-screw-up-035.jpg

I added labels to the photo.
The TAB has to line up with the CUTOUT at TDC. That's all the alignment tool does.

Here is the full thread;
http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-maintenance-repair/160034-cam-synchro-screw-up.html

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT: The original photo was uploaded by NYTAURUSABUSER.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Camshaft sychronizer replaced but problem returned

I had a multiple random misfire code, was advised to replace the cam sensor. I replaced it and the car ran get for a few miles and the started running rough and acting like it had before. Looking on these blogs i felt a camshaft sychronizer was needing replaced, took care of that the the car was running great again. This lasted a few days, about 30-50 miles. It's running rough again and I'm not sure what i should do next.

It may be coincidence, this all happened right after an oil chane from walmart. when i pulled the synchronizer out, it was extremely gunked up so i felt that was probably the issue.

The car has 179,000 miles, 1997 Ford Taurus GL.

Thanks/ [email protected]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts
I had a multiple random misfire code, was advised to replace the cam sensor. I replaced it and the car ran get for a few miles and the started running rough and acting like it had before. Looking on these blogs i felt a camshaft sychronizer was needing replaced, took care of that the the car was running great again. This lasted a few days, about 30-50 miles. It's running rough again and I'm not sure what i should do next.

It may be coincidence, this all happened right after an oil chane from walmart. when i pulled the synchronizer out, it was extremely gunked up so i felt that was probably the issue.

The car has 179,000 miles, 1997 Ford Taurus GL.

Thanks/ [email protected]
If your synchronizer was gunked up, it could be due to water in the oil. Which could be from head issue, which would cause rough running....BUT before you do anything pull the codes from your OBD2 computer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Taurus Cam Synchronizer

What is the reason that the cam synchronizer electrical connector has to
positioned at 38 degrees. If the assemby is installed set at TDC, shouldn't the timing be correct regardless of the connector position?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
455 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Thanks for the great information here. I have a quick question of my own: I just picked up a '98 Bull with the Vulcan. Has 200k miles on the clock and it runs great, with no SES/CEL light on, nor any engine noise, except a faint whine from the P/S Pump. Could it be assumed that the Cam Synchronizer has already been replaced during the cars lifetime?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,411 Posts
To throw my 2 cents here too... I wanted to replace the synchronizer in my Ford Explorer. Didn't know better and bought one from NAPA - made in China.
Luckly for me, it didn't mesh with the gears inside the engine so I took it back. I did buy a OEM one from Rock Auto and that slided in with no problems. After that I did read a similar topic about the failing pin and gaskets on the chinese part on another forum, dedicated to Explorers.
The synchronizer is almost identical with the one for tec (Ford #12A362). The original part had the teeth colored in green (chemical hardening - nitriding?), the part the I got from Rock Auto was not treated the same, but was Ford.
Below is the chinese part that didn't fit.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
I used a Dorman a few months ago and it was only a couple weeks before the oil leak...uh, waterfall...started. I hadn't seen this post, and I replaced it with another Dorman. Holding my breath...but so far, no leaks or squeaks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
guys i am having trouble... i got to the part where i try to take the synchronizer put but it does not move... even though i got the 10mm screw out and the part just does not come out and now im lost please any help have a short time for inspection T_T also, how to put the car in tdc step by step!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
So did Dorman get this taken care of (update)? I didnt know they made syncronizers. The ones I put in are always motorcraft.

EDIT: redcamil, I always pull the sensor off the top first, make reference marks on where the "rotor" is that I will be able to make again easily on the new one (casting seams are pretty good reference marks). I make it all line up exactly like the old one slid out. If you do go through with finding TDC, you can use one of those special line-up tools available from many suppliers. I have even had new syncronizers come with plastic line up tools. Now that you have reference marks, you can focus on removing the syncronizer. Once you get the 10mm bolt out, you should be able to twist and pull upward on the syncronizer and it will slide out. I have never had one be hard to pull out on a Taurus, but having a sludgy engine will make distributors and the like hard to remove at times. My vote, twist and pull. If you cant make it turn first, you probably arent going to have any luck pulling on it. I would be careful with any spirited prying since they are made out of thin aluminum and can crack easy. Just some ideas!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Dorman camshaft synchronizer !

I contacted the place I ordered my synchronizer from, and they contacted Dorman to get an update on on what's going on with the bad synchronizer model # 689-104 they were selling. Two years ago they replaced it with model # 689-114 and have had no problems with it.
I bought my part from; Car Parts Discount.com
They have a very nice car forum also, and Chris there will answer all of your questions, and get you an answer from whom ever it takes. He emailed my question about the synchronizer directly to Dorman and got a reply back and notified me. It's a very good site and forum. It's on facebook.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
I noticed that O'Reilly auto parts carries a cam synchronizer made by BWD. The casting looks different than that of the Dorman part. A little research on BWD shows they're owned by Standard Motor Products. I've had good luck with SMP stuff in the past. Does anyone have any experience with their sync unit?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Help with older Taurus

I just sold my 87 LX taurus. I have replaced a lot of parts on the car.I dont blame the car or ford.Anyone that has one parts are cheap for it.Just stay away from Autozone or no name clones.If possible get Motorcraft. Rockauto has been a big help if you wait for your parts.They have Motorcraft.Any ask about The Gen 1 is take good care of them will take care of you.Ask if you need help on this model.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
I just paid $500 to take care of this matter. I had an idiot shop replace the sensor/sync for no good reason. And they replaced a good sensor with the cheap chinese POS. They probably kept the OEM part.

But recently the oil light went on. The same shop said I would need to replace the oil pump. I took it elsewhere. The other place replaced the pump, but found the pin from this POS sensor jammed in the pump.

They didn't replace the sensor, they just replaced the pin. I called the dealership and they wanted over $400 to put in the OEM sensor.

Now I'm worried. The car has been running great since the oil pump replace. I don't want to spend the $400 if I don't have to.

I'd replace it myself, but I'm a little nervous about messing with the engine.
 
181 - 200 of 234 Posts
Top