Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 20 of 234 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
102 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Fellow Members,
I installed 3 new Dorman(CHINESE) syncro units back the 2nd week of October (2) #689-104 (1996-1997 3.0L Vulcan) and (1) #689-107 (this was for a 98 3.0L Vulcan) . I put one in my brothers 97 GL, 1 in my mother-in-laws 97GL an the other into my mothers 98 SE.
The reason I went a head and chaged these 3 is in a thread I made about my wifes GL Here>Read Here
Fast forward to last night, my brother said his car was leaking oil horribly. I checked it out and it was coming out of the sensor on top the new syncro. When I pulled the sensor off it was completly full of oil. WTF! I yanked the syncro unit out and I was totally Horrified. The roll pin in the gear was split in half and falling out of the gear and the gear was loose on the damn shaft....this is a press fit application(supposed to be). It also wore the thrust washer on top the gear. JUNKED! 2500 miles. I was fortunate it did not grenade his engine.

So I go pick up the mother-in-laws and pulled it out.....the freaking gear was loose on that one and had play in it also...not totally failed yet but was already stressing the pin horribly and it has oil weeping under the sensor already. JUNK #2. around 1500 miles.

I then go pick up my mothers 98 and you guessed it...the freaking pin and gear are loose here also...JUNK.

These units WILL FAIL! I fortunatly had all the old units lying on a shelf and put them back in till my Reman units(A1 Cardone...USA) come in Monday. The parts house was astonished but not suprised....loose tolerances and sub-standard metallargy.

Do yourself a favor if you are using one remove it and inspect it ASAP! I could understand finding a bad part out of a barrel but all three is a whole other ballgame.
BTW, Im going to pull the Reman-Napa(actually A1 Cardone) out of my wifes tommorow to see how it looks. I BET it is perfectly fine.
Yours Truly,
Pro Ford
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,433 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
102 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
UPDATE.

I pulled the Remanufactured NAPA(Actually A1 Cardone...USA!) out of the wifes 97GL this morning and it is in perfect condition @ 4000+ miles. Dry under the sensor and perfect contact in the gear mesh...ALL was tight with no play in any component.

No need to say more. I knew better than to use the Dorman(cheap) parts but I have had good luck with some of their products in the past(not major mechanical tho.) Im not bashing but this is a real life testimony...the DORMAN SYNCROS are Worthless POS!

Good Day,
Thomas.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
274 Posts
This is wonderful...I just performed this install about two months ago. I did notice that the assembly seemed to move (not as sturdy as the one (factory Ford) that came out) a little. I guess I better put this on my list of Spring maintenance. I haven't had any trouble, but I will inspect it asap. Thanks for the thread!
Regards,
Jordan
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,800 Posts
There's nothing wrong with my OEM Ford one yet at ~84k, but I'll remember not to buy a Dorman replacement when the time comes :noes: Thanks for the heads up!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
GREAT! I just performed this repair last weekend! I used the Dorman part also. It fit well though. Nice and tight with no play. Looks like I'll have to tell my cash strapped son the good news...... more $$$$ to keep your car alive! I have to replace an O2 sensor this weekend. I had to replace the oil pan gasket and trans pan gasket last month, the cam sync last weekend, It also needs tires. It might be cheaper to sell it and get something different. The AC is blowing fuses also.... more $$$$. I guess what I heard is true..... great cars until they get to 90,000.... then they blow up! :rolleyes:
 

·
Don't Be Stupid
Joined
·
7,049 Posts
GREAT! I just performed this repair last weekend! I used the Dorman part also. It fit well though. Nice and tight with no play. Looks like I'll have to tell my cash strapped son the good news...... more $$$$ to keep your car alive! I have to replace an O2 sensor this weekend. I had to replace the oil pan gasket and trans pan gasket last month, the cam sync last weekend, It also needs tires. It might be cheaper to sell it and get something different. The AC is blowing fuses also.... more $$$$. I guess what I heard is true..... great cars until they get to 90,000.... then they blow up! :rolleyes: [/b]
:dunno:

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
102 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I actually think the Gen #3 Tauri(Vulcan Engine) I have delt with are good cars for the most part. The wifes is pushing 183,000 miles and only a syncro assembly, speed sensor, and a fuel pump assembly are the only real hiccups the car has had. The front ends get rather worn out in the 130,000 mile range. I have replaced the inner and outer tie rods and plan on quick strut package eventually to restore the ride where it was when I bought it used with 50,000 miles in 99. It has the factory origional AX4N Trans and still going strong(fluid and filter changed regularly). I have only ran full synthetic oil in the car since I have owned it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
I actually think the Gen #3 Tauri(Vulcan Engine) I have delt with are good cars for the most part. The wifes is pushing 183,000 miles and only a syncro assembly, speed sensor, and a fuel pump assembly are the only real hiccups the car has had. The front ends get rather worn out in the 130,000 mile range. I have replaced the inner and outer tie rods and plan on quick strut package eventually to restore the ride where it was when I bought it used with 50,000 miles in 99. It has the factory origional AX4N Trans and still going strong(fluid and filter changed regularly). I have only ran full synthetic oil in the car since I have owned it.
[/b]
I have already gone through the front end on this car. New struts, Tie rod ends, sway bar links. It rides great and holds the road like a dream. I got Falken tires on it. They are semi performance and have done a great job. The engine runs great... we haven't had any major issues with it until recently. The gaskets started leaking. I found out that the oil pan gasket had split and caused it to slide out causing a serious leak at the crankshaft. The exhaust system had to be dropped in order to get the pan out. Everything looked great in the bottom of the engine. I am also a stickler for maintenance. The only thing that had to be replaced on the engine itself, has been an idler pulley, belt, coil pack, and coolant bottle. Other than those items and the front end it's been great! The synchro has me a little concerned though. I am not really happy to hear that they are failing. Before I rip it out, I will keep my eye on it. If it starts to act up the least little bit, then out it comes! The dealer has one for $144. I might be able to find it cheaper. I am also having a minor problem with the AC, which I now know is the high pressure switch. I was hoping it wasnt a compressor or condensor. It worked on day and the next day it didn't. This board is great, a lot of information.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Fellow Members,
I installed 3 new Dorman(CHINESE) syncro units back the 2nd week of October (2) #689-104 (1996-1997 3.0L Vulcan) and (1) #689-107 (this was for a 98 3.0L Vulcan) . I put one in my brothers 97 GL, 1 in my mother-in-laws 97GL an the other into my mothers 98 SE.
The reason I went a head and chaged these 3 is in a thread I made about my wifes GL Here>Read Here
Fast forward to last night, my brother said his car was leaking oil horribly. I checked it out and it was coming out of the sensor on top the new syncro. When I pulled the sensor off it was completly full of oil. WTF! I yanked the syncro unit out and I was totally Horrified. The roll pin in the gear was split in half and falling out of the gear and the gear was loose on the damn shaft....this is a press fit application(supposed to be). It also wore the thrust washer on top the gear. JUNKED! 2500 miles. I was fortunate it did not grenade his engine.

So I go pick up the mother-in-laws and pulled it out.....the freaking gear was loose on that one and had play in it also...not totally failed yet but was already stressing the pin horribly and it has oil weeping under the sensor already. JUNK #2. around 1500 miles.

I then go pick up my mothers 98 and you guessed it...the freaking pin and gear are loose here also...JUNK.

These units WILL FAIL! I fortunatly had all the old units lying on a shelf and put them back in till my Reman units(A1 Cardone...USA) come in Monday. The parts house was astonished but not suprised....loose tolerances and sub-standard metallargy.

Do yourself a favor if you are using one remove it and inspect it ASAP! I could understand finding a bad part out of a barrel but all three is a whole other ballgame.
BTW, Im going to pull the Reman-Napa(actually A1 Cardone) out of my wifes tommorow to see how it looks. I BET it is perfectly fine.
Yours Truly,
Pro Ford
[/b]
:( Great!
I JUST REPLACED mine yesterday...it took me four hours, too! The guy at the AutoValue store told me Dorman had a great reputation as far as re-engineering problem parts for a variety of cars.
There must be some sort of warranty on that thing... especially if it's failing at less than 2,000 miles.


Fellow Members,
I installed 3 new Dorman(CHINESE) syncro units back the 2nd week of October (2) #689-104 (1996-1997 3.0L Vulcan) and (1) #689-107 (this was for a 98 3.0L Vulcan) . I put one in my brothers 97 GL, 1 in my mother-in-laws 97GL an the other into my mothers 98 SE.
The reason I went a head and chaged these 3 is in a thread I made about my wifes GL Here>Read Here
Fast forward to last night, my brother said his car was leaking oil horribly. I checked it out and it was coming out of the sensor on top the new syncro. When I pulled the sensor off it was completly full of oil. WTF! I yanked the syncro unit out and I was totally Horrified. The roll pin in the gear was split in half and falling out of the gear and the gear was loose on the damn shaft....this is a press fit application(supposed to be). It also wore the thrust washer on top the gear. JUNKED! 2500 miles. I was fortunate it did not grenade his engine.

So I go pick up the mother-in-laws and pulled it out.....the freaking gear was loose on that one and had play in it also...not totally failed yet but was already stressing the pin horribly and it has oil weeping under the sensor already. JUNK #2. around 1500 miles.

I then go pick up my mothers 98 and you guessed it...the freaking pin and gear are loose here also...JUNK.

These units WILL FAIL! I fortunatly had all the old units lying on a shelf and put them back in till my Reman units(A1 Cardone...USA) come in Monday. The parts house was astonished but not suprised....loose tolerances and sub-standard metallargy.

Do yourself a favor if you are using one remove it and inspect it ASAP! I could understand finding a bad part out of a barrel but all three is a whole other ballgame.
BTW, Im going to pull the Reman-Napa(actually A1 Cardone) out of my wifes tommorow to see how it looks. I BET it is perfectly fine.
Yours Truly,
Pro Ford
[/b]
:( Great!
I JUST REPLACED mine yesterday...it took me four hours, too! The guy at the AutoValue store told me Dorman had a great reputation as far as re-engineering problem parts for a variety of cars.
There must be some sort of warranty on that thing... especially if it's failing at less than 2,000 miles.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
102 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
A warranty wont do your engine anygood if it fails to drive the oil pump very long. I to have used some Dorman products in the past thats why I bought those to start with. Trust me on this one. I was horrified with the way they looked after running 2 months. The one in my brothers was almost at complete destruction. If it had not been for the massive amounts of oil seeping up thru the assembly and running out from under the sensor and on the tranny to the ground we would have not caught it. Like I said it was self destructing. The roll pin was broke and falling out and it was only by the grace of GOD we caught it before it sliped out completly. If that had happened it would have toasted the engine. The other 2 were in the process of self destruction as I stated. I dont want to beat a dead horse but only telling TRUTH. The cars I put them on are very good mecahnical condition and nothing is wrong with their engines period.........except for the junk I had installed in them...LOL
Thomas
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
A warranty wont do your engine anygood if it fails to drive the oil pump very long. I to have used some Dorman products in the past thats why I bought those to start with. Trust me on this one. I was horrified with the way they looked after running 2 months. The one in my brothers was almost at complete destruction. If it had not been for the massive amounts of oil seeping up thru the assembly and running out from under the sensor and on the tranny to the ground we would have not caught it. Like I said it was self destructing. The roll pin was broke and falling out and it was only by the grace of GOD we caught it before it sliped out completly. If that had happened it would have toasted the engine. The other 2 were in the process of self destruction as I stated. I dont want to beat a dead horse but only telling TRUTH. The cars I put them on are very good mecahnical condition and nothing is wrong with their engines period.........except for the junk I had installed in them...LOL
Thomas
[/b]
Which brand do you recommend replacing the Dorman with? and, were there any other symptoms that preceeded that oil leaking from the synchronizer assembly ? I will keep a close eye on this one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,584 Posts
I think that a lot of people bought the Dorman Product because is the first aftermarket part sold by Rock Auto (who many of the people on this board use because of the board reference to the Rock Auto Website). This is the first report of problems with the Dorman Part in close to what? Three years?

Maybe Dorman changed sources, or maybe only the last lot made was defective.

Maybe, like the Chinese Manufacturers making toys for Mattel, the contract factories tried to sneak inferior (defective or flawed) product past Dorman after supplying a decent product for a period of time.

I suggest that people who bought the Dorman Product a couple of years ago, pull them out and check them for defects to see if this is a longterm problem.

In the meantime, the rest of us in the market for replacement parts can use the go ahead and buy the Cardone Part. Cardone supplies some good products, AND ALSO SOME LEMONS. But Cardone Products usually include a lifetime warranty. While the Cardone Part would cost slightly more upfront, in the long run those of us who keep out cars for a long time will come out ahead.

When the distributor for my 87 Taurus with Vulcan went bad, I bought a Cardone rebuilt, and the first one that I received was defective (mechanical timing advance was not working correctly). In the past, I have also bought some Cardone rebuilt clutch discs for some of my manual transmission cars, and when inspecting them before installation found cracks in the lining (after this happened, I switched to buying new OE manufacturer clutch discs).

So, I would say, buy the Cardone part (I am personally going to print out the Rock Auto Web Page and drive down to the local Kragen (Parts America) where they will beat the price by 5%. That way if the part is defective, I can get an instant/immediate warranty replacement, and will never have to buy another one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Thanks, I will check that other brand. Anyone else who replaced OEM part with the Dorman part have any probs??
One reason I checked out this forum was because I had a hard time getting the new one in exactly as I had the old one. It just seemed to be a few degrees off from the original. However, I had the alignment tool, and figured that as long as the tab lined up (with the tool) in relation to the syncho body that everything would be OK, even though my marks on the outside of the engine didn't quite line up with the marks I had made on the cam synchro assembly.
The car started right up and I've driven about 7 miles or so since. Of course, now that I think about it, I'm not entirely certain I had the engine at TDC, since I merely turned the crack pully until I could get the alignment tool to fit onto the top of the synchro, as one clubber suggested on an old post. I then marked the location of the old synchro on the engine body and removed it. But when I went to put the new one in, I couldn't quite get the notch on the new synchro body to line up with the marks on the engine. But, i figured, as long as the alignment tool fit onto the top of the assembly, the timing tab would be in the right position in relation to the sensor on the top. I guess that as long as I don't get a CEL, I'm OK.
Any thoughts on this, anyone?
Thanks for any help on this. I just want to make sure I'm not going to fry my engine or anything like that. The computer would sense if the timing's too advanced, or retarded, right?
Should I maybe post this query in another thread??
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
102 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
It may line up just a bit off from the origional but not by much. It would be obvious if you are off a tooth either way it would make it a very noticable difference from the origionals location. If you turned the engine from the location from when you pulled the origional and did not locate TDC for #1 and stabed it by the tool you would be quite lucky to have hit it right. Is it running normally?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
It's running just fine. Nothing out of the ordinary. Of course, I haven't driving enough for the computer to completely reset the fuel trim, but it should be there tomorrow.
If it was even just one tooth off, it wouldn't run, right? Or I'd throw a CEL ... so, I'm figuring I am OK.
thanks for your advice!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
OMG I just came to the maintenance and repair section here to post a question about oil leaking through the cps. I just spent $600 locating a drastically leaking (oil) engine! I can't believe this, because on of the leaks reported to me was from the CPS and the other leak was from the gasket under the lower intake manifold...and I just saw it with my own eyes. I will get an OEM one (CPS) and replace it immediately. DO NOT BUY THE DORMAN part, in fact, I am contacting Rock Auto right now.

Mine was on a 2001 Taurus.

Did you have any trouble getting the Dorman out of the car in the failed condition?
 
1 - 20 of 234 Posts
About this Discussion
233 Replies
124 Participants
Pro Ford
Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
A forum community dedicated to the Ford Taurus and SHO models, Mercury Sable and Lincoln MKS. Join the discussions on EcoBoost, aftermarket performance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Top