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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We have a 99 Taurus with a 3.0, 6 cylinder. The A/C is not working right. If you turn it on, it blows warm air, but not hot like the heater. I turned it on Max, and hooked up a guage, it reads about 35 pounds. The condensor is cold, and dripping with water, but it seemed like it should have been colder. What do you think? I didn't want to put in a can of freon until I got some opinions. Thanks.
 

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Cake monster
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I wouldn't charge it, what if you overcharge it?

What is the compressor doing? Can you explain how it's cycling? Get a temp reading off of the evaporator, too. I would make sure the condenser isn't covered in crap. If you overcharge, it won't work right at all. Do you have a manifold gauge set? The condenser is the warm part of the A/C, what ports are you getting a reading from? I think high side in is in the front, low side is by the firewall on the passenger side (I haven't hooked up a set of gauges to a Taurus in about 2 years though).

We'll need a little more info, it might even be unrelated to the A/C system. But it's never a good idea to randomly add refrigerant, there's an exact amount that you need to put in.

Hope this helps!
 

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^ 10-4 on the service ports locations. High (discharge) port is the vertical pipe behind the pass. headlight. Low (suction) port is at pass. side firewall. Really need both readings to get an idea. If needed, you can get a decent set of manifold gauges at harbor freight tools for $30-40.
 

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If condenser is cold, it is undercharged. The high pressure side needs to be in the warm range so that the low pressure side can become cold. If your system runs on R134a, 35 psi is low for Tampa today. You may not want to add the whole can. I would add 1/2 can first and measure pressure again. If 1/2 can doesn't make any difference in cooling, measure high pressure to make sure nothing is wrong on the high pressure side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The only guage that I have is for adding freon. I put it on the low side (one by firewall), which is the one for adding freon. I started the car after I attached the guage, then turned on the A/C to Max, and the needle went to about 35 pounds, which is right in the middle of the blue. I didn't want to add freon until I came here, even though it will take more. I don't believe freon is the issue.

I posted this in a truck forum I belong to, and someone suggested the blend door is sticking. I checked fuse 6 because the blend door actuator is supposed to use that fuse, or at least my service manual says that. The owners manual said the reverse lights share that fuse, and they were working fine.

Here is a pic of my guage.

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The part I called the condensor is down below the low side port, near the firewall, and is a metal hose that usually gets cold when the A/C is on. It's where the water drips from that drips down on the driveway.
 

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My bad. Ignore my previous post. (By the way, it's called evaporator.)

Someone here said 25 psi is the cutoff pressure. 35 is above the threshold, but still on the low side. For today's Florida weather (I live in Orlando), you need about 50 psi for better efficiency. But it's not the issue.

I think you need to focus on blender door, actuator, etc. Sorry I cannot help you. I am sure someone can lead you in the right direction.
 

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^ Evaporator area. Evap. is in heater box alongside htr. core. Thats the evap. drain that drips on pass. firewall. Evap. absorbs heat from the cabin and sends it to be expelled at the condenser.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I just put a 12 oz can of freon in, and it didn't even raise the needle. I might go get another can tomorrow, but I'm still not sure the freon is the problem. How do I get to the blender door?
 

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Brian, you can access the blend door actuator by removing the radio with din keys. Turn key to on and rotate temp. knob to observe its action. Leave radio and hvac hooked up resting on ashtray and/or shifter.
 

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You might want to check out the low pressure switch. Ended up being the problem on mine this last summer. A friend with a shop only charged me $50 to fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm going to go to Sears tomorrow, and get the guages I need to check the low, and high sides. I am guessing I would have them both hooked up at the same time, and get both readings at the same time. I also believe the car needs to be running with the A/C on maximum. Does anyone know what those two reading ranges should be for proper working conditions? After I put in a 12 oz can of freon last night, it didn't even raise the pressure at all. So I'm going to check both sides, and if they check out, them I'm going to pull the radio and check the blend door. Thanks everyone for the help.
 

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Brian, start with the car off. Hook up the yellow hose so that it loops back on itself closing it off. Close blue and red manifold valves. Caution: Never open red manifold valve with ac operating! Hook up the blue quick-connect to lo service port and red to hi. Turn on both quick-connect valves if so equipped. With eng. still off, note the static pressure. Should be equal on both gauges (apprx. mid 90s). Now start car and set ac to max. Let it stabilize 5-10 mins. All readings are dependent on ambient temp. and relative humidity. Lo side should stay somewhere around 35-45 psi. Rule of thumb for the hi side is 2.5 times ambient temp. For example, if its 85 degrees F, hi side should read 212-213 psi. If pressures are lower, system undercharged. If pressures are higher, system overcharged. Either is detrimental to your cooling. You can use the yellow service hose to add freon or connect to a vac. pump. Simply turn on blue manifold valve when doing so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well, I had some things happen, and I was not able to look at the car until now. I hooked up the guages that I bought at Auto Zone, because Sears doesn't have them. So here are my readings.

Temerature outside = 75
Hi side pressure with car off = 125
Low side pressure while car was off = 125
Low side guage only went to 100, and the needle went beyond that, so it is probably close. even though it went past, the needle could have gone a little further.
The car was warm when it was off.

Hi side after car ran 10 minutes = 180
Low side after car ran 10 minutes = 43

The compressor would come on when the A/C was first turned on, and seemed to stay on. I never heard it kicking on and off. I had the little women turn it off and back on a few times to see if it was kicking off and on then, and it was. So that all seemed to be working. Everything seemed to be getting the accumulation of condensation as usual.

I need to pull the radio to check the blend door. Do I need the special radio removal tool, or can I remove it without it. I don't have the tool.

How do those readings sound?

Thanks for all of the help.
 

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Brian, readings are in spec. I would get the din (ford radio removal tools) keys at walmart or any parts store for about $5 and keep them in your glovebox or console.
 
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