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Discussion Starter #1
2007 Taurus 183,000.
I swapped out my heater core the other day and ever since the blower moter is making a terrible noise...almost like a baseball card in the spokes..kind of sound. Slows down or increases with blower speed. I had to pull the dash to swap out the core, but I didn't touch the blower motor section of the assembly. Now,as I write this, I'm wondering if all the movement may have caused some old insulation to shift and drop toward the blower cage.

I may have to live with it. I'm not in the mood to pull the dash again!
 

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without having to remove dash again?
Yeah, removing the blower cage is easy and doesn't require dash pull. Removing the glove box makes access a bit easier, but that's all you have to do.

FYI if you ever have to do a heater core again, what I do now is just remove all the bolts but one on the driver side (keep it threaded in a few turns), then just sit in the passenger seat, pull the dash towards you a few inches, then just lift it straight up while reaching down with your left hand to yank the core out. New one goes in the same way. Requires some muscle but it's way faster and easier in the long run.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah, removing the blower cage is easy and doesn't require dash pull. Removing the glove box makes access a bit easier, but that's all you have to do.

FYI if you ever have to do a heater core again, what I do now is just remove all the bolts but one on the driver side (keep it threaded in a few turns), then just sit in the passenger seat, pull the dash towards you a few inches, then just lift it straight up while reaching down with your left hand to yank the core out. New one goes in the same way. Requires some muscle but it's way faster and easier in the long run.

Thanks--- I may just lower the blower motor and check -

Oh, also, I did the heater core using the method you described. I removed all bolts except for drivers side upper bolt (just backed it out 90%)and dashboard pivoted right out enough to pull the heater core. I did also remove the steering wheel bolt on the steering post. Worst part of the job is under the hood with those factory FORD hose clamps on the heater core.

Not to mention after the job was done, the heater hose rusted tube assembly started to leak at one of the T-joints! I think it was held together with the rust. That is next weeks job. I'm thinking of just creating my own using 5/8 hose and T-connectors.

my wife keeps telling me to get a new car, but damn if I don't love this old car. It has become like the perfect cup of coffee--just feels so right.

Thanks for your response.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I believe there are only three bolts holding the blower in place.
yes indeed. New development though. Even after new heater core, no heat....but heater box is very hot. I pulled the actuator out and it is not moving no matter the dash setting. I checked Fuse 27 (10amp)--not blown. Bought new actuator and plugged it in and the new one is not moving (not turning/responding to dash board manual control) at all. This is very very frustrating at this point. I'm at the point where I wonder if it is the switch in the middle knob. I have my wife's 2005 as a referece....but I hate taking apart a perfectly good car when I don't need to. (thinking of trying actuvtors on her car, and maybe even pull the variable switch out.
 

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You can try moving dampers by hand without the actuator installed. There is a know issue with the dampers warping, restricting movement. does actuator move plugged in but not installed?
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
You can try moving dampers by hand without the actuator installed. There is a know issue with the dampers warping, restricting movement. does actuator move plugged in but not installed?
does actuator move plugged in but not installed? NOPE. I bought a new one, and both actuators do NOT move when not installed (but just plugged into their power harness)- Which leads me to believe there is another issue up-stream...I checked fuse (#27 10amp)--The fuse is good. So, only things upstream are wire-harness or the variable switch.

Oh--and I had the fan running on high--making the noise and all of a sudden...it went away...LOL...I guess whateve was stuck got unstuck.
 

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Make sure you are buying the right actuator because there are two types, one for manual and one for electronic climate controls. It will work plugged in and not installed. I replaced the center control knob on one of my Taurus because it just spun in a circle but still controlled. I pick one up at the junkyard. You may want to pull the control panel and check the plug into the center control knob.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Make sure you are buying the right actuator because there are two types, one for manual and one for electronic climate controls. It will work plugged in and not installed. I replaced the center control knob on one of my Taurus because it just spun in a circle but still controlled. I pick one up at the junkyard. You may want to pull the control panel and check the plug into the center control knob.
Well, I purchased the 207 manual version. So both old and new do not work in my 2007 Taurus. So, I took them both to my wifes 2007 taurus and again, both fail. I double checked her installed acuator and it was working fine. we both have manual controls. So now I'm am back to thinking I have a bad 'new' unit? I also pulled the radio out and checked the connections at the control knob and the are sound. I'm going to return the 'new' acuator for a refund and get a different one. It is a pain when you don't have faith in the new parts you are using.

Also, I mentioned that my heater hose assembly is leaking at the "T" area and is rusted out. My friend and I are just going to splice in some new 5/8 hose and leave old unit in place That thing is a pain to get out--the upper nut I can't barely get to.

I just checked and they (Advance auto) sold me a Dorman 604-207 acutator, but I looks like I need 604-206---I'll exchange it in the AM and see what happens.
This car is now trying my love for it!
 

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Well, I purchased the 207 manual version. So both old and new do not work in my 2007 Taurus. So, I took them both to my wifes 2007 taurus and again, both fail. I double checked her installed acuator and it was working fine. we both have manual controls. So now I'm am back to thinking I have a bad 'new' unit? I also pulled the radio out and checked the connections at the control knob and the are sound. I'm going to return the 'new' acuator for a refund and get a different one. It is a pain when you don't have faith in the new parts you are using.

Also, I mentioned that my heater hose assembly is leaking at the "T" area and is rusted out. My friend and I are just going to splice in some new 5/8 hose and leave old unit in place That thing is a pain to get out--the upper nut I can't barely get to.

I just checked and they (Advance auto) sold me a Dorman 604-207 acutator, but I looks like I need 604-206---I'll exchange it in the AM and see what happens.
This car is now trying my love for it!
Yep that is the one for the electronic climate control so hopefully that is the reason it doesn't work. I had to replace the manifold on my one 2001 but never on my on my 2006 and the other 2001, That was years ago and I paid $125 at Ford for one. I think there were not to many aftermarket manifold available then. I have a bad taste in my mouth with Dorman actuators because the one I installed in my 2006 was off a tooth internally and it made my AC temps about 10 degrees hotter than before. It took me a year to troubleshoot that and I had to drill holes in the ductwork to actually see the temps after the evaporator vs coming out of the vent.

Some people replace the whole heater manifold with heater hose and plastic fittings.
 

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Yep that is the one for the electronic climate control so hopefully that is the reason it doesn't work. I had to replace the manifold on my one 2001 but never on my on my 2006 and the other 2001, That was years ago and I paid $125 at Ford for one. I think there were not to many aftermarket manifold available then. I have a bad taste in my mouth with Dorman actuators because the one I installed in my 2006 was off a tooth internally and it made my AC temps about 10 degrees hotter than before. It took me a year to troubleshoot that and I had to drill holes in the ductwork to actually see the temps after the evaporator vs coming out of the vent.

Some people replace the whole heater manifold with heater hose and plastic fittings.
In my experience the manual actuator rarely ever fails, mostly because the average person doesn't use anything in between full hot and full cold. As for Dorman stuff, I don't think they make a single product for a Taurus that I would trust, but I suppose if that's what you've got, then that's what you've got. I'd pull a junkyard one first if I could. Actually I guess that's not 100% accurate, I did use a Dorman power steering o-ring and that seemed to work OK.

Agreed on using heater hose and plastic t fittings (metal is better if you can find it) instead of even worrying about trying to replace all that crimped hard line BS. Finding heater hose at auto parts stores is getting hard these days though, both Autozone and Orielly's stopped carrying it at all, at least here. NAPA had some and so did Home Despot.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
In my experience the manual actuator rarely ever fails, mostly because the average person doesn't use anything in between full hot and full cold. As for Dorman stuff, I don't think they make a single product for a Taurus that I would trust, but I suppose if that's what you've got, then that's what you've got. I'd pull a junkyard one first if I could. Actually I guess that's not 100% accurate, I did use a Dorman power steering o-ring and that seemed to work OK.

Agreed on using heater hose and plastic t fittings (metal is better if you can find it) instead of even worrying about trying to replace all that crimped hard line BS. Finding heater hose at auto parts stores is getting hard these days though, both Autozone and Orielly's stopped carrying it at all, at least here. NAPA had some and so did Home Despot.
I tried my actuator (2007 Taurus) in my wifes car (2005 Taurus) and it did not work. I reconnected hers and witnessed the actuator move the metal rod up and down. So unless there was a huge shift between the two years, that is my next focus.

I can't totally blame Dorman (yet)---I did buy the wrong part. The 604-207 is for the newer 2010 Taurus and the 2007 Taurus model year is not even listed as compatible. When I was in the store the guy looked it up, and brought it to me and it looks exaclty the same-- I have to take some responsblity for that too, as I'd looked up the Dorman part number, but didn't write it down--I called ahead and asked them to put one aside and they didn't so when I arrived they had to start the look up all over again, and I didn't remember the part number.

Funny you should suggest the metal fittings, as I bought the metal fittings (only ones available) and pushed one into the 5/8 hose and it felt loose..I could even see a gap around the hose inner wall and the fitting (paper thin, but enough). While the plastic fitting was tighter and more secure. You could see the hose 'bulge' a little --like a snake eating a mouse. I just need to find straight plastics ones. I only have the T fitting. Finding heater hose was not bad...Both Autozone and Advance had it in stock. Less than $2/foot.

Why the hell would they stop carrying heater hose? Of course, I had to go to 2 different stores for the connectors as they only inventory one or two at a time now-a-days. Supply chain inventory. A person needs to keep a personal inventory of emergency repair supplies in their garage.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
In my experience the manual actuator rarely ever fails, mostly because the average person doesn't use anything in between full hot and full cold. As for Dorman stuff, I don't think they make a single product for a Taurus that I would trust, but I suppose if that's what you've got, then that's what you've got. I'd pull a junkyard one first if I could. Actually I guess that's not 100% accurate, I did use a Dorman power steering o-ring and that seemed to work OK.

Agreed on using heater hose and plastic t fittings (metal is better if you can find it) instead of even worrying about trying to replace all that crimped hard line BS. Finding heater hose at auto parts stores is getting hard these days though, both Autozone and Orielly's stopped carrying it at all, at least here. NAPA had some and so did Home Despot.
Original Actuator was broken so I replaced it and now getting some heat. I had to buy actutor from a different autoparts store, which allowed returns if that was not the problem.

Advance Auto sold me the 604-207 for my 2007 Taurus, which according to Domans web sit is not the right one. AGAIN--Advance looked at my old one, picked it out of their inventory for me! I went back to Advance Auto this morning and they refused to either refund or exchange--saying it is a policy in electronic parts. I did not see the policy in writing anywhere. I have to get a manager now to OK the return.

NOTE TO ALL-- Beware what you by from Advance and ask ahead on the return policy. Frankly, I'm ready to call my credit card company and put in a dispute.

I'm doing the hose by-pass later this morning--
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Seems if they sold you the wrong part, it should returnable because of their mistake.
What a bunch of BS. I have 4 auto parts stores in town ( Advance Auto, Autozone, Pep Boys, Norwood Auto parts)-- Sadly, this Advance happens to be very close to home--- I sure as heck won't buy anything electrical there again..not even a fuse!

I accualy went on the Advance Auto site and opened a chat window with them and explained and they are escalating it up to what they call ' store leadership' and will be in touch with me in a day or two.
 

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What a bunch of BS. I have 4 auto parts stores in town ( Advance Auto, Autozone, Pep Boys, Norwood Auto parts)-- Sadly, this Advance happens to be very close to home--- I sure as heck won't buy anything electrical there again..not even a fuse!

I accualy went on the Advance Auto site and opened a chat window with them and explained and they are escalating it up to what they call ' store leadership' and will be in touch with me in a day or two.
I had an issue with Advance Auto years ago about a warranty issue on a part. They wouldn't honor it and had to get the regional store manager involved. They eventually honored it. I also took back a seven year old strut that rusted and fell apart. The clerk said no because it was too old but the store manager said yes. I have gotten to the point that I buy quality when I can and forget the warranty because it doesn't represent quality like it year many years ago. Now it is just a numbers game and game of chance.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I had an issue with Advance Auto years ago about a warranty issue on a part. They wouldn't honor it and had to get the regional store manager involved. They eventually honored it. I also took back a seven year old strut that rusted and fell apart. The clerk said no because it was too old but the store manager said yes. I have gotten to the point that I buy quality when I can and forget the warranty because it doesn't represent quality like it year many years ago. Now it is just a numbers game and game of chance.
At least they gave you the correct part!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Job is now complete: Replaced Heater Core, and 1/2 the heater hose assembly. From Thermostat to core with the by-pass-- Created my own hose assembly from 5/8 hose with T-connector, and standard 5/8 straight connectors. Cut off the hose on the existing bypass, and hose at the inlet for the heater core and just ran hose from top of T-connector directly back to engine. Easy from a parts standpoint---near impossible from a location/access stand point. We put the car up on ramps, and used a utility knife extended to about 2 or 3 inches to cut the 5/8 factory hose. Again, easier said than done. 5 foot of hose (only used about 3.5 of it)--and some connectors/clamps. I also switched out my acutator.. Car is now blowing 160 degrees out of the dash panel vents. If anyone is interested, I can take some photos if that helps anyone out.

Took much longer than expected, but then I also had the luxury not not needing the car for a few days. I also removed the front passenger seat and center console (column shift) so working inside the car was a little more roomy.

I think I'm going to document the job, and the lessons learned, and how I would diagonose and with a 'no heat' situation again. Thanks to all for your help.
 
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