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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello TaurusClub:

I am currently in the market to purpose a Ford Taurus. The 6th generation has really caught my eye. I am looking for advice on if there is a specific year or mileage I should stay away from?

There are a few in my surrounding area; I have about $11,000 cash to spend and I would rather not have to finance. Also, does the 6th generation come with the regular halogen headlights, if so how easy is it to install something brighter?

Thanks for the advice; much appreciation.
 

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^^^ Agreed. The Cyclone engine has one fatal flaw - the internal water pump. A pump failure can destroy the engine by dumping coolant into the oil, the coolant in the oil destroys the main bearings = new engine. Replacing the pump can cost well over $1000 even if the failure is caught early before internal engine damage occurs.

Adult daughter has a 13 limited with 125K miles. Recently coolant level started dropping in the surge tank. No obvious leaks on the ground. Oil still looks good (I changed the oil a month or so ago) and no "milkshake" under the oil fill cap yet. I told her to get rid of it ASAP while it still has some resale value.
 
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If I had one, I would over due the coolant changes, maybe every 6 months.
My Buick Lucerne had the pump bearing get noisy. I took it to a local shop and they called me and said it was done. Less than 1 hour and that included getting the part. Charge 1 hour.
Really no excuse for anything else in design. My '03 Sable DOHC at 193K on original pump and all is quiet and dry. The hoses are a pain but the pump is durable. Wagon at 155K and doing fine. I think the wear issue is tension on the driving belt/chain. The G-4 DOHC has little tension. Long life.
My Lin Cont. (past) took 2 hours for me to do the belt, and I had experience. Alt add another half hour.
-chart-
 

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^^^ You would think.

If I was the engineer in charge of the FWD Cyclone design, and someone on the engineering staff would have told me the water pump needed to go inside the engine to get the engine to fit the chassis, I would have fired them on the spot and gone with a redesign using an external electric water pump somewhere under the hood with PWM speed control. Yes, an electric pump could and would eventually fail, but it wouldnt destroy the engine when it failed.
 

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The water pump running off the rear of the cam shaft worked just fine, as in earlier 3.0 DOHC.
Ford claimed it made the engine shorter. Pic of my Buick. Pump is right below the Alt. The pump and the stat are in one aluminum casting. It did not make the engine longer.
I am not a GM fan but sometimes they get it right. And a sidebar, they put the voltage reg on the firewall away from the heat and vibration of the Alt. Coolant tank is old school overflow tank, no pressure there. You can add fluid with the engine hot.
Guess it was too good, GM only used this combo for about 3 years.
-chart-
 

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Depends on your definition of "high mileage". Personally I consider a car high mileage if it is over 200K to 250K miles.

See if you can find out if the water pump has been replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Depends on your definition of "high mileage". Personally I consider a car high mileage if it is over 200K to 250K miles.

See if you can find out if the water pump has been replaced.
Thank you Jeff K, for your response. My price range is about 10-11K cash, I don't want to finance but most are in the 100,000 - 130,000 mileage range. I was planning on purchasing it directly from a ford dealership, paying their asking price (which I usually never do :ROFLMAO:), and have them throw in a 2-year premium esp to be on the safe side.

I have contacted one dealer and asked about if it's been replaced, I got the "let me check on that and call you back". I thought for certain I would've gotten a reply because it was purchased(one owner), serviced (at least all the service records I have seen on carfax) and back to the same dealer ( I am guessing traded in).
 

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^^^ Agreed. The Cyclone engine has one fatal flaw - the internal water pump. A pump failure can destroy the engine by dumping coolant into the oil, the coolant in the oil destroys the main bearings = new engine. Replacing the pump can cost well over $1000 even if the failure is caught early before internal engine damage occurs.

Adult daughter has a 13 limited with 125K miles. Recently coolant level started dropping in the surge tank. No obvious leaks on the ground. Oil still looks good (I changed the oil a month or so ago) and no "milkshake" under the oil fill cap yet. I told her to get rid of it ASAP while it still has some resale value.
When that happened to me I took it in for a pressure test, cost 1450 for pressure test and new water pump with "improved" seals, lol. Did it at a dealership and will have them replace the fluid yearly. Mine also went at around 120K. Now that I fixed it, I love that car...I'll keep it. But I agree I wouldn't have bought it if I knew that, or perhaps I would have haggled a bit more. I bought with 70K.
 

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The water pump running off the rear of the cam shaft worked just fine, as in earlier 3.0 DOHC.
Ford claimed it made the engine shorter. Pic of my Buick. Pump is right below the Alt. The pump and the stat are in one aluminum casting. It did not make the engine longer.
I am not a GM fan but sometimes they get it right. And a sidebar, they put the voltage reg on the firewall away from the heat and vibration of the Alt. Coolant tank is old school overflow tank, no pressure there. You can add fluid with the engine hot.
Guess it was too good, GM only used this combo for about 3 years.
-chart-
My takle on GM is that once the get a design right and all the bugs worked out and its profiable they stop selling the vehicle and do a complete re design. Case in point the rear wheel drive V8 impala SS. They were selling every one they could build, it was a great durable full size car and pulled police duty too...
 
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