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Discussion Starter #1
This weekend I am going to drop my pan and change the filter. The reason I'm not going use the flushing method to change the fulid is because I have heard of bad things happening on a high mileage trans after you flush out all of that bad fluid.

I'm going to use a method where I only change what is in the pan every 20K. I don't want to drop the pan each time so I got a little plug repair kit at sears hardware. It is a nut and bolt with a hole in the nut where another nut fits. It is genious. I figured with a good drill bit and some pipedope I could get a perfect drain plug like the factory should have done.

I was wondering if anyone had ever done this before? Is this a good idea? What would be the best spot?
 

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Nope, have never done this before but i'm curious to see how it comes out for you. I'm looking to install a Tranny Temp gauge and from what i've read from the install instructions i'm going to have to drill a hole in the pan for the temp sensor.

My only worry would be that the pipe dope (depending on how you plan on using it in your install) could end up in the ATF fluid and that would obviously be bad. Also, what temp range can pipe dope handle? The directions i have read for the Tranny Temp gauge i plan to install says to weld or braze the sensor adaptor nut into the pan.
 

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Is there an aftermarket pan available with a drainplug already installed? Such pans exist for C-4's, C-5's and C-6 Ford trannys...
 

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If it's a high mileage trans, you should be pulling the pan to get to the filter each time you change the fluid anyway. I wouldn't go installing a drain plug with pipe dope, as I would be afraid that it would contaminate the ATF and make things go all screwy...If I were you, I woulg go to a junkyard and pull another pan, then try to solder a plug in. This way, if you screw it up, you're not ruining your own.

JR
 

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Originally posted by davesbedroom@Jun 3 2004, 10:01 AM
This weekend I am going to drop my pan and change the filter. The reason I'm not going use the flushing method to change the fulid is because I have heard of bad things happening on a high mileage trans after you flush out all of that bad fluid.

I'm going to use a method where I only change what is in the pan every 20K. I don't want to drop the pan each time so I got a little plug repair kit at sears hardware. It is a nut and bolt with a hole in the nut where another nut fits. It is genious. I figured with a good drill bit and some pipedope I could get a perfect drain plug like the factory should have done.

I was wondering if anyone had ever done this before? Is this a good idea? What would be the best spot?
I think you're just better off sticking to the standard method and changing the fluid every 30k. If you put in the drain plug, you won't end up dropping the pan and cleaning out all those little metal bits at the bottom of the pan, plus you won't clean out the magnet or change the filter. I think that's probably the reason the manufacturer doesn't put the plug in there in the first place.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys, I have been scared off. I think I'm just going to go ahead and drop the pan to change the fluid and filter every time. How often would you do that? Trans has 65K.
 

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Originally posted by davesbedroom@Jun 3 2004, 01:22 PM
Thanks guys, I have been scared off.  I think I'm just going to go ahead and drop the pan to change the fluid and filter every time.  How often would you do that?  Trans has 65K.
More frequently... :rolleyes:
 

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I do mine every 30,000. Some guys/gals here do it every 15,000. I did mine last weekend. My fluid was in great shape after 30,000 this time. Still red and no burnt smell. I was surprised. I buy a case + a quart, flush it with 6 quarts, then drop the pan and change the filter, clean the pan and magnet, etc.

To flush, pull the hose off of the drivers side of the cooler, put a 12" or longer hose on the output of the cooler, start the car and let about 2 quarts come out. Never let it run to the point of spitting air out of your drain hose. This would mean you are running it dry and that's bad. Shut the engine off and fill it with 2 quarts of fresh. Repeat this 2 more times, except after dumping in the 6th quart, start it and let 2-3 quarts come out, stop it and then drop the pan. This way the pan isn't so full in case you have issues doing the "drop one side" method.

You could flush it with more, but Mercon V isn't cheap, especially these days. It cost me $41 for Castrol from Autozone.

BTW, my 99' AX4N had a green seal filter. Good thing I bought both because I was guessing orange.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Originally posted by Sablewagon+Jun 3 2004, 01:40 PM--><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (Sablewagon @ Jun 3 2004, 01:40 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-davesbedroom@Jun 3 2004, 01:22 PM
Thanks guys, I have been scared off.  I think I'm just going to go ahead and drop the pan to change the fluid and filter every time.  How often would you do that?  Trans has 65K.
More frequently... :rolleyes: [/b][/quote]
Thank you
 

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You can buy a universal drain plug at any auto parts store. You will have to have the pan off and drill a hole in it and the plug is threaded with o rings and nuts on both sides. Just make sure there aren't any clearance issues where you drill it.

It makes it a big difference in ease when draining the pan but I wouldn't use it not to change the filter.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Originally posted by mwt@Jun 3 2004, 06:26 PM
You can buy a universal drain plug at any auto parts store. You will have to have the pan off and drill a hole in it and the plug is threaded with o rings and nuts on both sides. Just make sure there aren't any clearance issues where you drill it.

It makes it a big difference in ease when draining the pan but I wouldn't use it not to change the filter.

Mike
have you done it?
 

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I have never done it on a taurus but I have done it on about twenty GM TH350 and TH400. On the Gm units you had to make sure it didn't hit the filter.

These were mostly drag racing and street hot rod applications that had 9 or 10" converters and the heat was ungodly. There were no Synthetic fluids back then and a weekend at the strip would burn the fluid. We would just change it out instead of dropping the pan. The torque converters usually had drains on them also.

B)
Mike
 

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Originally posted by davesbedroom+Jun 4 2004, 10:24 AM--><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (davesbedroom @ Jun 4 2004, 10:24 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-mwt@Jun 3 2004, 06:26 PM
You can buy a universal drain plug at any auto parts store. You will have to have the pan off and drill a hole in it and the plug is threaded with o rings and nuts on both sides. Just make sure there aren't any clearance issues where you drill it.

It makes it a big difference in ease when draining the pan but I wouldn't use it not to change the filter.

Mike
have you done it? [/b][/quote]
Bob did it on his transmission, but hes got an MTX.

I think im gonna do it to mine in the near future, perhaps in the next 30K when I drop the pan again (just did it last month).

-DC
 

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Originally posted by godspunk32@Jun 3 2004, 08:51 AM
If it's a high mileage trans, you should be pulling the pan to get to the filter each time you change the fluid anyway. I wouldn't go installing a drain plug with pipe dope, as I would be afraid that it would contaminate the ATF and make things go all screwy...If I were you, I woulg go to a junkyard and pull another pan, then try to solder a plug in. This way, if you screw it up, you're not ruining your own.

JR
I was just going to suggest that idea as well. I wouldn't attempt this on your only oil pan.

I think this is a good idea. If anyone has every changed their own trans fluild it's messy. I would love to have a drain plug to let out the fluid and then unbolt the pan and replace the filter. It would be so much easier. I don't understand why it isn't like that to begin with.
 

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....Bare. Oh, and use the original gasket. Don't use the cheap aftermarket ones that come with the filter kits. They are crap.
 

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Originally posted by davesbedroom@Jun 4 2004, 02:58 PM
do you guys put any purmatex on the gasket or just use it bare?
I don't know what car you have but if it is a later model with the reuseable gasket you don't need anything. If it is an old type make sure you clean all the old gasket material off.

You can use a spray on I think it is called Perma Tac It it is just sticky enough to hold the gasket in place while you get your bolts started. It is a red aerosol and I have always had good luck using it.


What ever you do use a torque wrench when you tighten everything up.

JUST thought of the name of it

Hi-Tack

B)

Mike
 

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Adding a drain plug sure would make it less messy to change the filter. I think I'm going to do this next time I drop the pan. I just did it a few weeks ago so it won't be for till next year.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks Mike,

I have a 97 so I think my gasket isn't reusable. That hi tack stuff sounds cool.

Everyone in my town was out of the motorcraft part! So I had to go to autozone and get their no-name-brand filter and gasket. Anyone have any problems with these or want to turn me off of them?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I did the job today and everything went great. Only hang up was when the seal for the old filter stayed in the trans. I had to work it out with a punch. Filled her back up with 6 1/2 quarts. She is very happy. After all those miles the magnet was completly covered with a metalic sludge, the fluid wasn't burnt but it wasn't pretty. Next time I drop the pan I might put the drain plug in the middle of the magnet.

I forgot to mention, 97 taurus with the AXOD has a
:banana: RE-USEABLE GASKET!! :banana:
 
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