Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
yeah, i've had my car for a year, and my system for bout 6 months, i notice the subs, neons, and every other gadget i got running in my car tends to dim my headlights and suck alot of juice, i've now heard of people gettin 2 batteries for their cars, and i've read a little deeper into that and i guess you need a capacitor?? i'm not for sure, but i want to know how you set something like that up all the wiring, and i know to place it in the trunk in a plastic or metal case,

but id like to see some install pics, or any pics of someone whos done this before, and what kinda hardware i should need, i would guess just offhand you run some wire from the + post on the car bat to the + on the 2nd batt, or the capacitor, this i dont know, then just ground out to some metal part in the trunk

check out more bout this "Kupplerfahrt" (german for pimp ride) at my cardomain page http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/379333
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
746 Posts
you dont need a capacitor, they are not good. i would recomend a new alternator, one that does higher output. you can also do a second battery, that is a nother option, it is better than a cap, but not as good s a new battery.

if you go the route of the second battery, you have to make sure you get an isolator, otherwise the two batteries will drain themselves.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
yeah i searched for this topic, but i didn't come up with anything in the search, but yeah, what is an isolator, whats its purpose, and where can i get one of these, and someone just clearly explain to the very dumb(such as myself) how i would set this all up, with a second battery that is, i would rather go this route then adding a new alternator, i've heard that you would also get a dry cell battery instead of a normal wet cell, and so i looked at that and they recomended you get a cap with the battery, but i guess you guys know way more than me on this subject, so i will leave it up to you to help me along here
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,022 Posts
the real question is: how do you keep the second battery charged? You still need the alternator to keep the battery charged, or the battery isn't going to do any good for long. I would get a higher output alternator, and upgrade the alternator and battery wiring. if that doesn't work, then you can get a second battery and wire them in parallel. That will give you better storage capacity.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
746 Posts
with the second battery you get a battery terminal going from the battery under the hood and run power wire all the way back to the second batter, this is what keeps it charged. then you just go from the battery in your trunk to your amp(s). you dont need a cap with the new battery, a person trying to sell you a cap is just trying to make more money with the sale, especially if they know you are getting a second battery.

when you get the second battery you need the isolator to keep the batteries from discharging each other. what the isolator does is to kind of make the entire system think that the new battery doesent exist until it is ready to use it. when you have the two batteries the charge on them will always be slightly different, and they will try to equalize the charge between them. however they are not very good at doing this, and they will continue to draw off each other until both batteries are dead, and then you cant start your car.

definitly go and upgrade all your wires, including the big three under the hood, and your power wire. this will help with a good bit of the dimming, the smaller wires are very restrictive to the current flow.

also, if you are contemplating a HO alt, i would go that route first. that is a very good fix and helps out more than anything.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,288 Posts
Whats wrong with a capacitor hoss? By definition and design they are built to store energy for time of high peak power, like a bass hit. How is it the main purpose that they are built and designed for, they are not good for that? Wtf?


-mobiuslogic
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,090 Posts
may want to search on that topic...me and hoss like to go at it.

The end result:

SMall systems: Cap
bigger systems: cap OR battery (not both....kinda a waste)
Big ststems: battery and reccomended bigger alternator.

Youd you agree hoss????????????????????????????

Brad
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
746 Posts
i guess you can sum it up like that brad, but im still not completely going to agree with that statement. just something we will have to agree to disagree on.

i just dont like caps because i have a very good understanding about what they do, what they dont do, what their uses are, and many of the caraudio myths about their uses. everything i learned came from people who hold world records, design speakers/amps, and are very well regaurded in the car stereo field.

i wont get into it here with you brad, we have done that enough... but if someone wants a disertation ill explain(in one post) why i dont like them, and brad can tell why he likes them
. that way you can get both sides of the coin and make a decision.

and mobiuslogic... to answer your question in a nut shell - caps werent designed for car stereo use. someone just had the idea to make them shiny and sell them for a huge profit
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,126 Posts
What you need is bigger battery cables and a deep discharge, high capacity, quick discharging type battery. No need for capacitors or two batteries or isolators or bigger alternators.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
746 Posts
Originally posted by SHOZ123@Jan 31 2004, 03:18 AM
What you need is bigger battery cables and a deep discharge, high capacity, quick discharging type battery. No need for capacitors or two batteries or isolators or bigger alternators.
that will help too. better power wire, and the big three.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
OK heres my opinion, having been in the car audio industry for 13 years this I will tell you caps do store energy for very short bursts (12v-0v in about a second) a battery will hold up for deeper current draws, and upgraded alternator can help but in one of the 2 SPL cars we built we used a stock alternator (94 camaro V6, 8 lightning audio batteries + stock batt, 8 1000D amps and 4 12' subs) we however di not ever use an isolator, the batteries do not drain each other the purpose of an isolator is charge both batteries when the ignition is on but only use the secondary battery(s) when the key is in the ACC position ( trust me I have installed many, and removed all of them plus more because we figured out that they are more of a marketing thing [kinda like caps and woofers that aren't round {I'm gonna get flamed for that}]) the other car 89 hyundai excel 150 amp alt (stock ait gonna cut it on that) 11 lightnig audio batteries + front battery 12 1000d amps and 3 15" subs, we could hit 163dB with that consistently but nowadays that number aint nothing compared to other #'s

to sum it up, second battery, no isolator but do use a fuse up front and upgrade your factory ground and cable to the alternator

sorry for the long post, please don't flame me for my opinion
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top