Acdelco Spark Plugs For Vulcan?
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Your kidding right? ACDelco's in a Ford product? And, second why change plugs unless you use some platinum or iridium long life plugs. And, just as important is to replace the plug wires with say a bosch premium wire set or anybody's premium wires. I bought my Bosch Iridium Plus 4's from RockAuto and got a great price for a great plug. Over 20,000 trouble free miles and still going strong.
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QUOTE (jndejure @ May 29 2010, 10:32 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=807779
motorcraft or the autolite plugs are the best. I have used boschs before but i hear they can get knock issues on the 3.0 and 3.8 engines. I think acdelco wont make your engine run bad per se but for the price and peace of mind i would rather buy the motorcraft.
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QUOTE (jndejure @ May 29 2010, 07:32 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=807779
Stick with Motorcraft or Autolites.
Your kidding right? BOSCH plugs in a Ford product? They are known to misfire in our cars which is why most people on this forum would be discouraged from using them. If it works for you, great, but i would expect the next set or the set after that to misfire.
Stick with Motorcraft or Autolites.
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QUOTE (taursadise @ May 29 2010, 05:59 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=807757
Here's a better deal, get Motorcraft plugs from Rockauto using the TCCA discount code or Autolite single plats from Super K-mart or Wal-Mart whatever it's called.
QUOTE (fdogg96 @ May 30 2010, 03:11 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=807835
Stick with Motorcraft or Autolites.
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NOPE, I am not kidding at all. I believe the reason some have had bad results with Bosch plugs is because of their ether not replacing the wires or using inferior wires of a lesser quality than the OEM components. And, since Bosch is probably the number one replacement plug for those looking for a better plug than originally installed in their cars the chances of a poor installation causing problems is much higher than with other brands. That is why I stress using anti-seize on the threads and a torque wrench calibrated in inch/pounds along with ss wound core wires (premium wire set) whenever doing any plug change. And, of course using plenty of dielectric grease in both end boots (coil & plug) to avoid moisture and dirt from causing problems down the road. You will notice that people who changed to Bosch Plus 4's in the Duratec motors with the "coil on plug" systems usually have no problems with the Bosch plugs. It's the wires that are causing most of the alleged problems. Change your wires first and use a premium wire set, then change the plugs.
Your kidding right? BOSCH plugs in a Ford product? They are known to misfire in our cars which is why most people on this forum would be discouraged from using them. If it works for you, great, but i would expect the next set or the set after that to misfire.
Stick with Motorcraft or Autolites.
[/b][/quote]
NOPE, I am not kidding at all. I believe the reason some have had bad results with Bosch plugs is because of their ether not replacing the wires or using inferior wires of a lesser quality than the OEM components. And, since Bosch is probably the number one replacement plug for those looking for a better plug than originally installed in their cars the chances of a poor installation causing problems is much higher than with other brands. That is why I stress using anti-seize on the threads and a torque wrench calibrated in inch/pounds along with ss wound core wires (premium wire set) whenever doing any plug change. And, of course using plenty of dielectric grease in both end boots (coil & plug) to avoid moisture and dirt from causing problems down the road. You will notice that people who changed to Bosch Plus 4's in the Duratec motors with the "coil on plug" systems usually have no problems with the Bosch plugs. It's the wires that are causing most of the alleged problems. Change your wires first and use a premium wire set, then change the plugs.
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QUOTE (JATO @ May 30 2010, 03:32 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=807847
QUOTE (jndejure @ May 30 2010, 08:52 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=807873
Stick with Motorcraft or Autolites.
[/b][/quote]
NOPE, I am not kidding at all. I believe the reason some have had bad results with Bosch plugs is because of their ether not replacing the wires or using inferior wires of a lesser quality than the OEM components. And, since Bosch is probably the number one replacement plug for those looking for a better plug than originally installed in their cars the chances of a poor installation causing problems is much higher than with other brands. That is why I stress using anti-seize on the threads and a torque wrench calibrated in inch/pounds along with ss wound core wires (premium wire set) whenever doing any plug change. And, of course using plenty of dielectric grease in both end boots (coil & plug) to avoid moisture and dirt from causing problems down the road. You will notice that people who changed to Bosch Plus 4's in the Duratec motors with the "coil on plug" systems usually have no problems with the Bosch plugs. It's the wires that are causing most of the alleged problems. Change your wires first and use a premium wire set, then change the plugs.
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The +4's have the same performance ground as your firewall "ram air" theory. :rolleyes2:
I used high quality taylor wires and had problems with the bosch double plats....dont tell me I used **** wires.
Seriously a waste of money in comparison to NGK double plats.
The Vulcan Hates Bosch plugs. Stay away from them. Also, I'm not a fan of delco products.
Stick with Motorcraft, NGK, Autolite, and make sure they're double plats.
Stay away from Splitfires, diamond fires, E3's, and +4's +3's +2's -8's or any other gimmick plug. You'll thank me later. I've wasted enough money on useless **** to know.
You're one of the lucky ones. Congratulations.
QUOTE (jndejure @ May 30 2010, 08:52 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=807873
Your kidding right? BOSCH plugs in a Ford product? They are known to misfire in our cars which is why most people on this forum would be discouraged from using them. If it works for you, great, but i would expect the next set or the set after that to misfire.
Stick with Motorcraft or Autolites.
[/b][/quote]
NOPE, I am not kidding at all. I believe the reason some have had bad results with Bosch plugs is because of their ether not replacing the wires or using inferior wires of a lesser quality than the OEM components. And, since Bosch is probably the number one replacement plug for those looking for a better plug than originally installed in their cars the chances of a poor installation causing problems is much higher than with other brands. That is why I stress using anti-seize on the threads and a torque wrench calibrated in inch/pounds along with ss wound core wires (premium wire set) whenever doing any plug change. And, of course using plenty of dielectric grease in both end boots (coil & plug) to avoid moisture and dirt from causing problems down the road. You will notice that people who changed to Bosch Plus 4's in the Duratec motors with the "coil on plug" systems usually have no problems with the Bosch plugs. It's the wires that are causing most of the alleged problems. Change your wires first and use a premium wire set, then change the plugs.
[/b][/quote]
The +4's have the same performance ground as your firewall "ram air" theory. :rolleyes2:
I used high quality taylor wires and had problems with the bosch double plats....dont tell me I used **** wires.
Seriously a waste of money in comparison to NGK double plats.
The Vulcan Hates Bosch plugs. Stay away from them. Also, I'm not a fan of delco products.
Stick with Motorcraft, NGK, Autolite, and make sure they're double plats.
Stay away from Splitfires, diamond fires, E3's, and +4's +3's +2's -8's or any other gimmick plug. You'll thank me later. I've wasted enough money on useless **** to know.
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QUOTE (taursadise @ May 30 2010, 06:57 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=807979
NGK over Autolite, Autolites tend to be cheap according to many.. though personally I never had a problem with them in my Taurus, they were the OEM plugs on mine.
Not all Delco's are NGK's. (not NKG) NGK is contracted out on many manufactures works. Just like Autolite at one point made Motorcraft plugs.
NGK over Autolite, Autolites tend to be cheap according to many.. though personally I never had a problem with them in my Taurus, they were the OEM plugs on mine.
In the past, I never had luck running NGKs in domestic vehicles. This was also when I owned a 1980 F-150 and a 1982 Cadillac Eldorado. I put standard heat range plugs in both of those and neither set lasted 2 weeks. Now, if we're talking about a long lasting plug, I'll defend Champion Coppers until I'm blue in the face. I only put the +4s in my car because I happened to be slightly intoxicated when a friend of mine drove me to the parts store.
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QUOTE (JATO @ May 31 2010, 03:29 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=808037
The only catch is with Coppers you gotta change em every 30K vs the 100K intervals Double Plats or Iridiums give you.
This wasn't a problem on my Jeep being it was a 4cyl and easy to change... (at least 3 of them..damn A/C compressor....) however maybe more of a pain in the ass on the Taurus being the rear 3 are difficult on the Vulcan and almost impossible with the 'tec.
Thanks for your input. I've never used NGK's in my Taurus, but have used them in many other applications. I put Champion Coppers in my Jeep (that ran Bosch double plats..... :angry: and misfired like hell under load) and had GREAT runs with it and made better mileage.
The only catch is with Coppers you gotta change em every 30K vs the 100K intervals Double Plats or Iridiums give you.
This wasn't a problem on my Jeep being it was a 4cyl and easy to change... (at least 3 of them..damn A/C compressor....) however maybe more of a pain in the ass on the Taurus being the rear 3 are difficult on the Vulcan and almost impossible with the 'tec.
Ease of change is part of the reason why I went with +4s for my '06. While it's not impossible to get to the back 3 plugs, it's just inconvenient. I already hat the UIM off when I was doing the roller rockers so I figured why not the plugs while I had access. NGK does make a good plug but I limit their use to my motorcycles. As for more testament to the quality of Champ. Coppers, I recently did an ignition tune up on my '93 F-150. The old Copper plug had roughly 50,000 miles on them and when I pulled them they were still gaped within tolerance and they were a perfect shade of tan. I replaced them anyway because at the time I was chasing down an intermittent misfire which turned out to be a faulty injector.
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QUOTE (JATO @ May 31 2010, 04:43 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=808048
Gotta remember these cars have waste spark.. so the plugs wear out twice as fast.
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I would use NGK or Motorcraft as well.
Mediarocker seems to lack the ability to be objective when examining anybody's opinion including his own. If he were objective he would be trying to explain why so many people on this forum have reported no problems whatsoever over long periods of time using Bosch Plus 4's in their Taurus/Sable motors, both Vulcan's and Duratec's. One of his statements is that Vulcan's just cannot stand Bosch Plus 4's yet my 96 Taurus with Vulcan power ran beautifully with the Bosch plugs for many years. And, I am not alone as others have reported the same on this site. If he cannot think logically about pressure variances under the hood of a moving car, how does anyone think he can extrapolate worthwhile information about a brand of spark plug that seems to work just fine for many on this site and other sites. The Bosch Plus 4's are a take off of the surface gap plugs used with great success by many manufacturers at least since World War II including Mercury Marine and numerous airplane engine manufacturers. Firewall forward differential pressure build up is not a theory since every manufacturer is aware of this and some even attempt to modify and/or lower it's affect by limiting or redirecting air flow through the engine compartment to minimize its' affect on performance.
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QUOTE (jndejure @ May 31 2010, 05:21 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=808169
I based my comment on your profile.
Also, Marine and Aircraft engines DO NOT EQUAL a Vulcan. They run different compression ratios. And on a Vulcan, they are merely a GIMMICK. they provide no increase in performance for their price. Hence, they are USELESS. YOU FAIL TO GRASP THIS ASPECT. Many people have problems with Bosch plugs in their vehicle. Not because of lack of quality, but merely because the plugs do not function optimally under their engine's specifications. Instead of suggesting someone to buy plugs that have had a MINOR success rate, and whom is NOT seeking performance, we're gonna stay away from suggesting the bullshit +4 plugs for that reason.
Extrapolate THAT.
Insulting my intelligence due to your lack of forethought further expresses your lack of consideration in the fact that a OHV Vulcan is NOT a ###### European car that can benefit from 10 dollar plugs!
Congratulations. 5 Vulcan out of 20 can run +4's. You want an award? I refuse to support a product and will advise people AGAINST buying a product if I've failed to have good performance out of it under multiple conditions. Bosch plugs ran like **** in my Jeep, my Taurus, and my Fathers Sport Trac. So I've learned to stay the hell away from them. My buddy runs them Just fine in his BMW. I got a guy running them Just fine in his Supercharged Cobalt. Does that mean it should be a recommended plug for an average user? NO.
The fact of the matter is, if someone wants SURE RELIABLE Performance without having to chance it working or not on their vehicle, the tip is to stay away from Bosch on your Taurus. At least until everyone (and I mean EVERYONE.) starts saying otherwise. Not to down JATO, or You for running Bosch. I Just fail to see the need to increase material that will maintain more heat in the engine bay (the +4's) if there is no definitive performance gain.
Not just that but your fixation on putting a intake at the firewall of a Taurus makes no god damned sense being the temperature at the firewall of a Taurus NEGATES the effect of a ram air. That 1 PSI of pressure is 1PSI of 200* air. Which means that your making ~0 PSI of ~75* air. A Taurus CAN NOT. and WILL not Benefit from this kind of setup! No matter if Mario ###### Andretti uses the god damned setup! I understand the issue of having to redirect flow out of the engine bay. I've understood this since day one. However the firewall will never produce enough pressure to benefit the engine's induction in the Taurus.
If I still had my Taurus I'd go out right now and fit those +4's and that firewall ram air JUST to see if your theory has ground. Being I ran a HAI and actually LOST power, and running Bosch Double plats I misfired worse than my buddy's Vauxhall Corsa. I'd do it, and dyno it chancing grenading my engine just to prove to you that none of these euro mods would benefit this vehicle.
You're logic is lacking.
You have a Duratec according to your profile. A Duratec DOES NOT EQUAL VULCAN. :rolleyes2:
I based my comment on your profile.
Also, Marine and Aircraft engines DO NOT EQUAL a Vulcan. They run different compression ratios. And on a Vulcan, they are merely a GIMMICK. they provide no increase in performance for their price. Hence, they are USELESS. YOU FAIL TO GRASP THIS ASPECT. Many people have problems with Bosch plugs in their vehicle. Not because of lack of quality, but merely because the plugs do not function optimally under their engine's specifications. Instead of suggesting someone to buy plugs that have had a MINOR success rate, and whom is NOT seeking performance, we're gonna stay away from suggesting the bullshit +4 plugs for that reason.
Extrapolate THAT.
Insulting my intelligence due to your lack of forethought further expresses your lack of consideration in the fact that a OHV Vulcan is NOT a ###### European car that can benefit from 10 dollar plugs!
Congratulations. 5 Vulcan out of 20 can run +4's. You want an award? I refuse to support a product and will advise people AGAINST buying a product if I've failed to have good performance out of it under multiple conditions. Bosch plugs ran like **** in my Jeep, my Taurus, and my Fathers Sport Trac. So I've learned to stay the hell away from them. My buddy runs them Just fine in his BMW. I got a guy running them Just fine in his Supercharged Cobalt. Does that mean it should be a recommended plug for an average user? NO.
The fact of the matter is, if someone wants SURE RELIABLE Performance without having to chance it working or not on their vehicle, the tip is to stay away from Bosch on your Taurus. At least until everyone (and I mean EVERYONE.) starts saying otherwise. Not to down JATO, or You for running Bosch. I Just fail to see the need to increase material that will maintain more heat in the engine bay (the +4's) if there is no definitive performance gain.
Not just that but your fixation on putting a intake at the firewall of a Taurus makes no god damned sense being the temperature at the firewall of a Taurus NEGATES the effect of a ram air. That 1 PSI of pressure is 1PSI of 200* air. Which means that your making ~0 PSI of ~75* air. A Taurus CAN NOT. and WILL not Benefit from this kind of setup! No matter if Mario ###### Andretti uses the god damned setup! I understand the issue of having to redirect flow out of the engine bay. I've understood this since day one. However the firewall will never produce enough pressure to benefit the engine's induction in the Taurus.
If I still had my Taurus I'd go out right now and fit those +4's and that firewall ram air JUST to see if your theory has ground. Being I ran a HAI and actually LOST power, and running Bosch Double plats I misfired worse than my buddy's Vauxhall Corsa. I'd do it, and dyno it chancing grenading my engine just to prove to you that none of these euro mods would benefit this vehicle.
You're logic is lacking.
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Stick with Autolite spark plugs and the Motorcraft Plug wires.
I have used Bosch in the past with some knock issues but i am now using the Bosch IR Fusion with no issues, although next time i will go with Autolites.
I have used Bosch in the past with some knock issues but i am now using the Bosch IR Fusion with no issues, although next time i will go with Autolites.
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