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Discussion Starter #1
going to need to remove the belt to replace water pump, and the tentioner looks to have a female torex bolt that needs loosend before it will swivel. Is this correct, and if so what size torx socket? 97 vulcan
Thanks
 

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THe books say it is a 15mm, but if you look on the tensioner you can also find a receivere for a 3/8 inch rachet which I found much easier to use
 

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He is talking about takingthe actual tensioner itself off. On my 94 It is a Torx but I don't remember suze, sorry
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Originally posted by maceslin@Jan 13 2004, 08:17 AM
THe books say it is a 15mm, but if you look on the tensioner you can also find a receivere for a 3/8 inch rachet which I found much easier to use
This must be for a tech engine mine looks nothing like the picture in the Haynes book on page 1.19, or the picture on page 2A-3 illistraition 1.1a

must have ben more the one type used
 

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It is either a T21 or T22, I am leaning towards the T22
 
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You don't need to loosen it to relieve the tensioner. The Torx bolt is on a bearing allowing the tensioner to move freely.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Originally posted by Bob Gervais@Jan 18 2004, 05:23 PM
You don't need to loosen it to relieve the tensioner.  The Torx bolt is on a bearing allowing the tensioner to move freely.
Bob, thats what I tried first putting a wrench on the pulley bolt and tried to relieving the tension, but the tensioner would not move in either direction. So thats when I started this post. When I did loosen the torx bolt I could relieve the tension. I ges the bearing is seized up? I tighten the torx bolt back up.
The car is running ok but I have all the parts to do that cooling system recall
and I am trying to see how thing are going to come apart and what special tools I will be needing so once the weather brakes and I have a full weekend to do this I will be prepared.

PS.
I am a fairly new member and want to complement you, the staff, and members. this is a great club.
 
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Thanks for the compliments! I don't think you'll find another group of more helpful people!

On the tensioner, it's function is to provide constant tension on the belt using the spring that's inside the tensioner. If it wouldn't move without loosening the bolt, something must be seized up as you mentioned. This will eventually cause problems, because if it doesn't move, it won't properly tension the belt as it stretches. I have a spare off the donor engine I just swapped into my 97. If you'd like it to compare to the one you have, let me know.
 
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some of the tensioners do seem to need some gorilla strength to budge. I haven't found the Haynes to be too useful, but a combo of that and the chiltons will usually give you images/illustrations of what you need.

QUOTE
I am a fairly new member and want to complement you, the staff, and members. this is a great club.[/b]
Thank you, and if I haven't said it yet...Welcome to TCCA!
 

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i just put on a new belt, and that tensioner was a PITA to move. i ended up just going to autozone, and paying 20 bucks for the belt remover tool, but you will also need to get some crowfoot wrenches (15mm), because there is not enough room for a socket to fit onto the tensioner. it makes it so much easier. i can relieve the pressure on it with one finger, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
well I took the tensioner off the engine and it was defenetly seized up. the wear pointer was still indexed in the middle of the slot and should have sprung over to one side. After trying to free it up with WD40 and soaking in oil I gave up on it. Dayco makes a after market one cost $58 bucks, and replaces the tapered torx bolt with a standard hex bolt and washer, also the bolt on the end of the pulley is much easier to grab with a crows foot because its not recessed in the pulley. The only down side is the pulley is plastic.
 

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my mechanic (whos name also happens to be Green.
) had to change the tensioner (the ome was seized up wouldnt move.).. he used one from carquest that has a std bolt not torx....
It dosent appear to be plastic. But dosent have the wear indicator thingy
 

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Has anyone here changed the belt on a duratec? To me, it seems like there is now way to get a socket/ratchet in there, as the space between the tensioner pulley and the fender is just too small. Any ideas?
 

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Originally posted by Deniz@Feb 4 2004, 10:30 AM
Has anyone here changed the belt on a duratec? To me, it seems like there is now way to get a socket/ratchet in there, as the space between the tensioner pulley and the fender is just too small. Any ideas?
I've done it on mine. I bought the special tool set from Advance Auto. It's basically just a set of several sockets that are about half as tall as regular and a long flat bar on which you can attach one of the sockets. The short sockets will fit between the fender well and tensioner pulley.

Here's a few tricks I figured out after doing it a couple times. Don't try to hold the tensioner wrench with one hand and work the belt off with the other. Get a piece of twine and run it from the tensioner wrench to something in the front of the engine bay (I used the upper rad support). Then you can you two hands to work the belt. [Note: If that doesn't make sense now, it will when you're standing there with the wrench on the tensioner
]

If you have trouble getting the belt back on it is helpful to remove the front passenger wheel and the plastic shield inside the fender. Then you can reach up inside and work the belts onto the pulleys from the bottom.
 

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wow this topic came at a good time ... I need to replace the belt on my 96 and check the status of the other pullies. Im gettting a sound that seems like the bearings on one of the pullies is going south - metal on metal screeching.

I hate changing belts...
 
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Originally posted by Grn96Taurus@Feb 4 2004, 02:40 PM
wow this topic came at a good time ... I need to replace the belt on my 96 and check the status of the other pullies. Im gettting a sound that seems like the bearings on one of the pullies is going south - metal on metal screeching.

I hate changing belts...
15mm wrench with a larger wrench or pipe used as a lever will move the tensioner for you. Get a Gatorback belt, they don't make any noise. If you need an idler or tensioner, well, you know how to get a hold of me.
 

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dayum, i spent abtt 55 bucks on the carcuest tensioner. some how I dont like it..
the oem tensioner looked cool with that wear indicator thingy
 
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