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I have a 96 with dohc. The auto thermostat can be set to 70. And one day can blow cold air one day. Or it will blow air as hot as it can. And its completely random. Any suggestion on sensors or switch?
 

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YOur AC may have slowly leaked over time. Generaly, if the presure is the system is to low, the computer will turn off the compressor to save it from running dry, and ruining it.

YOu can now by a charger can with seal conditioners to the lowside that has a guage on it, so you can add enough refridgerant to the proper level. Overcharging is just as bad as undercharged! It need to be in the sweet spot.

It would be good to buy some guages to see where your system pressure is at, assuming nothing else is wrong with it. I bought a cheap set from Harbor Freight.

BTW, my dryer hose with the black can connected to it rusted and burst where the foam padding is wrapped around it. I suspect that this is a common thing with the Taurus. My car is a 98. Check for any oily residue around this hose.
 

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As many have stated on these boards, monitoring ONLY the low side does not ensure proper charging of the system.

I just did this this past weekend when I changed out the Compressor and Condenser Coil. Here's what you want to do.

Go to Autozone and rent a set of A/C Gauges ($200). When you return them you get your money back.

Start w/ Car off

Hook up the yellow hose so that it loops back on itself (essentially closing it off and preventing anything from getting into the system).

Close your Blue and Red Gauge valves

Hook up the blue line to the Low side port and the red line High side port. The connectors are meant to be pushed on. When you want to take them off you pull back on the quick release and remove them.

With the car still off, take note of the static pressure. There is a chart that you can use to figure out what the pressure should be. Also, this pressure should read the same on HIGH/Red Gauge and LOW/Blue gauge. This is b/c at this point the entire system *SHOULD* be equal.

Link: http://www.hantech.com/support/documents/H...ratureChart.pdf (if link goes down at any point, do a Google search for 'r134a tables')
1st column is the temperature degrees in F
3rd column is the PSI for 134a.

Example: If it is 85 degrees out, your static pressure on both HIGH and LOW lines should read 95.2 psi.

Once you can establish that the static pressure is good, it's time to turn on the A/C to the MAX setting (leaving the windows or doors open).

First, check to see that the A/C clutch engages and stays engaged.
Second, notice the pressures on the HIGH and LOW sides of the gauge set. The Low side should stay somewhere around 35-45psi. The High side (as a general rule) should be about 2.5 times the temperature. So, using the 85 degrees F as an example, the High side should be around 212-213 psi.

If the pressures are lower = System Undercharged.
If the pressures are higher = System Overcharged.

Either one will give you less performance for the COLDNESS of your A/C.

Post back with your findings.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
QUOTE (ricer333 @ Jul 23 2009, 09:29 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=741378
As many have stated on these boards, monitoring ONLY the low side does not ensure proper charging of the system.

I just did this this past weekend when I changed out the Compressor and Condenser Coil. Here's what you want to do.

Go to Autozone and rent a set of A/C Gauges ($200). When you return them you get your money back.

Start w/ Car off

Hook up the yellow hose so that it loops back on itself (essentially closing it off and preventing anything from getting into the system).

Close your Blue and Red Gauge valves

Hook up the blue line to the Low side port and the red line High side port. The connectors are meant to be pushed on. When you want to take them off you pull back on the quick release and remove them.

With the car still off, take note of the static pressure. There is a chart that you can use to figure out what the pressure should be. Also, this pressure should read the same on HIGH/Red Gauge and LOW/Blue gauge. This is b/c at this point the entire system *SHOULD* be equal.

Link: http://www.hantech.com/support/documents/H...ratureChart.pdf (if link goes down at any point, do a Google search for 'r134a tables')
1st column is the temperature degrees in F
3rd column is the PSI for 134a.

Example: If it is 85 degrees out, your static pressure on both HIGH and LOW lines should read 95.2 psi.

Once you can establish that the static pressure is good, it's time to turn on the A/C to the MAX setting (leaving the windows or doors open).

First, check to see that the A/C clutch engages and stays engaged.
Second, notice the pressures on the HIGH and LOW sides of the gauge set. The Low side should stay somewhere around 35-45psi. The High side (as a general rule) should be about 2.5 times the temperature. So, using the 85 degrees F as an example, the High side should be around 212-213 psi.

If the pressures are lower = System Undercharged.
If the pressures are higher = System Overcharged.

Either one will give you less performance for the COLDNESS of your A/C.

Post back with your findings.[/b]
The system works, so i know its not under or over charged, its a sensor of some sort, because if it was trying to blow cold air it would be warm, but this air is HOT as it can get, like heater is stuck open. but its random, i can get in car and hit auto, and its ice cold one day, and next day, it can push air out, and as the car wams up , the hotter the air gets, i know when i hit the auto button, the compressor kicks on, like some valuve is stuck shut or sensor is not working properly.
 

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just went out and checked car again, and an update........

I hit auto, and the compressor kicks on, and rpms drop like normal, and it blows air but not cold, and as the car warms up, the air gets hotter and hotter, till it is hot as you can imagine. which is why i think its some sensor of some sort, because compressor kicks on, and when ac works, its ICE cold. so i dont beleive it is part of the compressor or any leak, its eletrical i beleive.
 

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Have you tried running the EATC diagnostics?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
024 Blend door actuator malfunction
025 Intermittent blend door actuator malfunction
is the codes i get, i googled it and found out how to get the codes


i would assume these are controlled by vacume lines in the car somewhere?
 
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