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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok this is what I did. I changed the compressor with a used one the compressor is cycling, but it appears that it is cycling rather fast... Click 1, 2, 3 click. The ac blows nothing but warm air and within the last few days, the blower motor stopped working. It is binding on something, if you slam the hood shut or pound on the dash board, it starts up really slow and sometimes goes to regular speed, sometimes it doesn't ever speed up. The display window shows the level that the blower motor should be spinning on the heater control window I mean. I'm wondering if I made a mistake with adding refrigerant with the stop leak added to it. I do not have the right guages or a vacuum pump. When I hook the filling gun with empty can on it to the low port near the firewall, it reads to the blue area and then drops down to 25 or so, with the compressor cycling. The refrigerant doesn't seem like it wants to to go in at all. What happened?
 

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You really need to see what the high side pressure is. Why was the comp replaced? If it came apart internally, pieces can go thru the system, often plugging the orifice tube. Plugged tube will result in no cooling and sky high high side pressure.
 

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Fast cycling means too high or low pressure. The stop leak was a mistake. Although stores sell it, AC guys always NO! when you mention stop leak. They won't evacuate a system with the stuff because it clogs up their vacuum machines.
Why was the compressor replaced originally?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
the compressor was shot, I had it making noise and alot told me that it was going bad fast. I worried about it taking the serpentine belt with it along side the road, so I went and got the compressor, came home and opened the hood so the engine could cool before I worked on it. While inside, I heard a big snap coming from outside. When I went out, it was the serpentine belt that snapped from the heat of the pulley i would guess. Ironic huh? So there I was in the driveway, can't drive the car any where now. So I couldn't prepare and get the right tools, had to do what I could in the driveway. How should I flush it out now? Get a removing tool and take the stems out of high side tube and flush it all out? I'm almost thinking there's got to be a way to do it without opening the system again??:huh: The funny thing is what's happening to the blower motor? It's almost like something is rubbing and stalling the squirrel cage. I'm thinking the blockage is inside the plenum, that blower motor has never acted up at all until after this incident. I've been trying to find a diagram of the system online. I threw out the thought of getting a repair manual, they leave a lot out and sometimes leave you guessing anyway. I've got a lot of other issues that are mounting. I need to change transmission fluid and probably take the valve body out for rebuild, because when the engine is cold, if you take off in over drive, you get a little ways up the street and it starts to slip. It only does this when it's cold though. I love that car when nothing is wrong with her. I called it 'kate' because it's obviously a female in the way she acts sometimes. Someone once told me if it's got **** or wheels, you are bound to have trouble with it!
 

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You need to bite the bullet and take it to a shop with A/C equipment, you're going to destroy the new compressor running it as-is. It has to be evacuated, and you may need more parts like the orifice tube and dryer if black sludge or shrapnel was circulated through the system.
 

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X2 on what WJC said

Sounds like you need to invest in a FSM. Found mine on Ebay for $35.

Good Luck with Kate's issues :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK now how about this...

I've been thinking a lot about what I did. I know that when I released the system seal when I put the compressor in. There was a lot of pressure and if the orfice tube had been plugged, it would of only came out the one side with that much force. I thought this cycling of the clutch, 1,2,3, and I thought ok... what's it going to hurt by trying to add another canister of refrigerant. $7 or $8 is all I'll be out. I administered it slowly and it came to the point that it would not take any, I felt the frosty can and let it sit on top the manifold in between shots. I was feeling inside the car, and by God, it was starting to get cool. I did notice the bottom line frosted up. It is the high side line, frosted and I'm trying to remember what that meant. Everything I've read says if there is a line frosting up, it's because there wasn't enough refrigerant in the system. I continued to add slowly, and as the can would melt up. It started to get really cold inside the car. Then it got REAL cold and within a minute at most, that line that was frosted up, thawed. Did I just get lucky or what? I test drove it, IT WAS COLD, no matter what engine RPM or speed, it's blowing real cold air. The hard take off from one stop light made the check engine light flash, as well as like it was bogging down. I am almost thinking it might have something to do with the transmission or a bad fuel injector. What would make the check engine light flash, while and when it is bogging down on a hard take off? :unsure:
 

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Flashing CEL = serious missfire that will damage the cat in short order.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Miss fire and the SRS airbag light on

Ok here is what I found... I crossed a pot hole filled street and the air bag light came on. It was the frontal crash sensor that was so corroded inside the plug hard shell that one of the two prongs from the sensor was stuck in the hard shell loom when I unhooked it. So I've changed the sensor and the plug, the crash module in the front of the passenger cabin, right under the heater plenum to no avail... The light is still on. So today I'm looking under the dash driver's side and notice a wire that looks almost like a ground strap wire but then I realized that it isn't a silver braided wire, Ford has never used a wire bare like that in any of the wiring looms I've ever seen. Ground straps yes, but this is just a wire that looked gray from being cooked when that crash sensor grounded and shorted out. I now have to trace that wire and find out wtf is up with it. Probably run a new wire. As for the missing... I believe it was the IAC that was making part of the missfire when the A/C compressor cycles with the A/C or defrost and heat on. The idle was not lifting slightly when the compressor cycled, which would put a draw on the motor. I just can't wait to dig into that loom under the dash as well and find out what's up with the bare wire. That might also have something to do with the miss fire when the heat or a/c is on. I will report back with what I find...
 

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Did you vacuum the system before charging it?

I thought ok... what's it going to hurt by trying to add another canister of refrigerant. $7 or $8 is all I'll be out.
Well, that's actually a pretty bad idea. You need to put the right amount in, like by weight. I think it should be a 34oz charge. If you bought 3 12oz cans and added it, you would have a 36oz charge, for example. How did you handle adding the oil?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
After well almost two years, the end result (COLD A/C)

Wow looking back at these posts and remembering how befuckled I was when it came to A/C . The advice that I got from you guys here definitely helped and I didn't do things the way I was suppose to, but that's how you learn!!! The end result and major cause of a lot of what my A/C was doing, was that the front of the radiator was lined with either cotton wood lint or dandelion fuzzies, after I blew out condenser and radiator, problem solved!:clap2::salute:
symptoms were:
A/C would blow cold when driving down the freeway, warm air in traffic...
A/C would make the car misfire spit sputter and act up drastically...
A/C would make the car and transmission overheat...
A/C compressor took a major ****, squealed, grinding disc tambourine sound...
A/C compressor pulley got so hot from being driven like this, serpentine belt snapped, as I was coming home from the junk yard with a used compressor...

Things I did good and bad:
Added a can of refrigerant, replaced compressor with used unit, thinking I had a leak in the lines, I got cans of refrigerant with leak seal because it was the same price. Added another two cans of refrigerant without the leak seal. I over charged the system I'm sure and did not change parts that I should of changed because of when the original compressor took a ****, possibly having debris from it in the system. Realized the radiator situation, blew it out and the problem could of been solved if I had knew about BETWEEN the radiator and condenser like a year earlier. Long story I hope it helps you if you experience the same symptoms... B)
 

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^+1. I, periodically, with black plastic air dam removed, take a garden hose with nozzle attached, and spray up between condenser and radiator. You'll be amazed at the crap that washes out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
That's what the problem with my car was and it just sucks that it evaded me for that long while I learned more about A/C, but anyone having a similar problem will know that I didn't just have a problem... it's plural, I had f#@K!^& problem(s) and I may have blown a gasket in the mother board in my mind, the slave drive doesn't look good either, so leave a message after the beep! :rolleyes2:
 
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