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Discussion Starter #1
This is regarding a 2002 Sable with SOHV Engine.

When you start the vehicle, the ABS Light, Engine Light and Gas Cap light are all on solid. Oil pressure is fine. When you drive down the road the brakes jitter as if the ABS system is kicking. Once you get into the last gear all those lights go out and then the brakes work properly. They don't come on again, even if you stop at a a sign and let it idle. If you go into park it doesn't change. However, if you shut off the engine and restart then this will happen all over again in the same manner.

Chassis and Engine grounds were checked and they are good. I have checked grounding under the dash yet - no quite sure where to look.
It's a weird problem.
 

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Sounds to me like a failing battery or alternator causing low system voltage. Use a GOOD scan tool to look any for B, C or U series codes to see if there are any low system voltage codes present. Have the battery load tested and alternator checked by someone who knows what they are doing (i.e., NOT the 17 year old kid behind the counter at the discount parts store).
 

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Thanks for your help. Just recently the battery light has been flickering on for short duration. It has a new battery, plus there is squeaky pulley.
 

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The warning lights come on if the voltage during cranking drops too low that some modules dont boot up correctly and communicate correctly on the HS CAN network. Every time I have had this happen, it was a weak battery, but then again I am anal about having clean battery terminal connections and good solid grounds. Damaged cables, dirty battery and ground connections, etc can also cause low crank voltage.
 

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I had recently put brand new terminals on the battery. The smaller of the two positive terminals had came out so I wound up replacing both terminals. The other day I had put a voltmeter on it and accidentally I put it on AC instead of DC. There was no reading and suddenly there was an AC reading -- I've heard that when the regulator in the alternator in starts to go bad that it would be intermittently putting out some AC like this. I have a used alternator I'm going to install and see what happens.
 

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I had recently put brand new terminals on the battery. The smaller of the two positive terminals had came out so I wound up replacing both terminals. The other day I had put a voltmeter on it and accidentally I put it on AC instead of DC. There was no reading and suddenly there was an AC reading -- I've heard that when the regulator in the alternator in starts to go bad that it would be intermittently putting out some AC like this. I have a used alternator I'm going to install and see what happens.
V regulators have nothing to do with AC. Bad diode can make some AC ripple but you will have noisy ALT. If your DC volts are 13.8 to 14.5 with lights and blower max, at ~2K rpm you are fine. Expect same volts at idle with thing off and you are OK. Any diode issue will make a rpm variable whine.
-chart-
 

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Thanks for your help. Just recently the battery light has been flickering on for short duration. It has a new battery, plus there is squeaky pulley.
Have the belt system checked and address that squeaky pulley. It could be the tensioner itself, which can squeak like that. If there is improper tension or belt slippage, that can cause your problem. Check this BEFORE having the alternator tested (if testing on vehicle).

The belt and tensioner are a regular maintenance item. If the tensioner is the original, consider just changing it if you are trying to get a good amount more miles out of the car.
 

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The alternator was replaced today with another used alternator. The squeak is totally gone and the old alternator had some white dust deposited on things underneath it. They test the replacement battery and alternator at Autozone and it passed all their tests I did have to replace a battery terminal also which had cracked from overtightening.

The weird problem of the Oil, ABS and Gas Cap lights on until you drive a short distance is still there. I really think this is either grounding or something related to the CPU.
The annoyance with the ABS light is that it thumps the brakes and apparently that looses fluid over the course of a week.
 

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The alternator was replaced today with another used alternator. The squeak is totally gone and the old alternator had some white dust deposited on things underneath it. They test the replacement battery and alternator at Autozone and it passed all their tests I did have to replace a battery terminal also which had cracked from overtightening.

The weird problem of the Oil, ABS and Gas Cap lights on until you drive a short distance is still there. I really think this is either grounding or something related to the CPU.
The annoyance with the ABS light is that it thumps the brakes and apparently that looses fluid over the course of a week.
Take a look at the electrical connections to the fuse box, pcm, etc and see if you notice any corrosion anywhere. I would specifically investigate the fuse box connections.
 
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