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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
To make a long story as short as possible, I'm basically curious about what people have done for wiring high power components, and also mounting the comp crossovers.

I have comps already: Lanzar OPTI6C Component Systems at Onlinecarstereo.com
And an amp: Lanzar OPTI4X400D 4 Channel Amplifiers at Onlinecarstereo.com

In the past I've run the amp bridged and gain limited it to about 250x2 rms. So naturally I've run heavier than stock wiring. I'm concerned about getting any wire at all through the driver's side wiring doo-hickey on the door.

It seems the best option for the crossover is on/in the door somehow, but this x/o is pretty good size, 6 x 4 x 2 if I were guessing. Not sure where they'll fit or if they'll fit.

Experiences?
Ideas?

FWIW - LOC, sub, sub amp are already in place.

BTW - '99 SHO, Mach, Auto climate
 

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For mounting X-overs. Take the door panel off. Use a piece of cardboard to mock up where the mounting holes will be. Use this in the INSIDE of the door panel to drill the holes where you want the x-over to be on the inside of the pocket on the other side Run all your wires up and through the door panel cleanly. Wire the crossover. Then put it in place. Pulling the wires through on the other side. And drop tiny bolts through. Tighten the nuts on the other side. And remount the door panel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
locating and installing the x/o makes sense.

Still don't know what I'm going to do about getting 12 awg spkr wire into the door through the big wiring interface in the door jamb.
 

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There is a write-up on how to add or modify pins in the connector block at the drivers door. Unfortunately, there may be no way to get 12ga wire into the pins, even though you can replace the pins with new ones. Check the write-up to see if there is any mention of the maximum wire gauge acceptable.

Edit: In the second post of that thread, a user indicates he has used this method to upgrade his speaker wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I believe I've read that thread before. One word comes to mind...UGH.

My old contour had a similar device and there was a similar tutorial for it, but I "circumvented" it by simply boring a hole through the middle of the connector. I was actually able to get 2 prs of 16 awg through it that way w/o effecting the stock wiring.

Not sure if that's an option on this car.
 

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Here's how I get wires past that damn thing.

Unplug it
Get the connector loose from the door. There are 2 little screws holding it on. pull it out of the door to where you can get at it. I drag it through the speaker hole.
Cut a notch in the flange on the back side (that you wouldnt see when it's plugged in) of the deal that mounts to the door. Use a dremel or similar.
Run wires through the notch you just made, and bolt it back to the door, make sure you're not pinching the wires.
Cut a slit in the rubber boot just below the connector on the body side of the plug. (Again, on the back side where you wont see it.
Fish wires through the boot and into the cabin.
Reconnect the plug.


Now the wires will be exposed on the back, but will not be visible when you open the door, unless you're just absolutely trying to find them. I've run 16ga wires this way with a lot of room to spare.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I wonder what the possibilities are -- instead of repinning the connector like this: http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/117...-visual/147509-adding-circuits-door-jamb.html -- just removing the existing speaker wire pins, or better yet, using blank holes, possibly enlarging them slightly, and just running wires straight through the connector?

It seems like a viable option. Something I will check out...this weekend if I'm lucky.
However, time consuming car mods are a little tricky with a hyperactive 3 y/o and mom out of town :D
 

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I have 110watt RMS components in my doors with a 160watt RMS channel powering each side. I put the crossovers in the cabin. Why? So I can tweak tweeter attenuation without opening the door panel (well, in the end, the default 0db setting worked out best though, Alpine Type-R tweets become fairly smooth with break in). The crossovers were attached to the inside of the black plastic plate underneath the dash storage box. The speaker wires run from the amp to the crossovers. From the crossovers, two sets of speaker wires run into each door. The right side was easy. The driver side was a mess. Eventually, I routed the wires out of the door through some random hole and then it they run into the accordion rubber thing (I made a hole in it), and then into the cabin. If you're not sure how this could work, I could post a pic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I did some investigating today and discovered a couple things.
I took the molex cylinder apart. I got the door side of the connector loose and pulled it out of the door through the speaker hole. I had to take the bolt out holding the window track in place for clearance.
There are 3 unused holes for the larger wire pins.
I see no reason I can't take a small drill bit and enlarge those holes slightly to feed 12 awg into the door using two of those vacant holes - one (+), one (-).

Also - there is a large, relatively flat area at the bottom middle of the door that will allow for the crossover to be mounted. Like I said earlier, my crossovers are quite large. They're actually 7-1/4 x 4-1/2 x 1-3/4, but they will fit in the above location.
The only hang up is there are voids in the door panel metal right where my crossover mounting holes are. I'm going to have to make some - basically huge washers - to cover this opening and allow for mounting the x/o's.

Optimistically I will be bringing my front stage to life sometime in the next month or so. Could be longer though, depends on how long the lake and golf weather hangs around :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update if anyone cares:

I was able to make my above theory work regarding getting heavy awg speaker wire (12) through the driver's door molex. I THINK I used a 3/16" bit which ever so slightly enlarged the existing (unused) holes to feed the wires through. I'm nearly certain you could feed 16 awg through with no drilling. Well, almost no drilling. There's a rubber plug of some sort filling the unused holes - that has to be drilled out.

Passenger's side was pretty straightforward. Threading it through the boot is the hardest part.

My right component set is mounted, but still running on factory power.
Doesn't sound much different from stock at 20w (its a 250w rms component set, that's 250w per side) although it does seem a little smoother in the mid range.
 

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I'm very curious to hear your impressions of the Lanzar comps with some real power going to them. I've heard some very good things about the Lanzar's. I've owned some very good comps in my time (Focal K2's, Infinity Kappa Perfect's, Alpine Type-X Pro's, Dynaudio Esotec's, and my personal favorite Alpine F#1's). The one thing they all lacked was the ability to take a lot of power. I switched to the DIY route with my wife's car and used Dayton Reference Series drivers. At this stage in the game though I need to stay on a tighter budget and I love a good value. My current favorite bang for the buck are the Infinity Kappa's. Great sound and fantastic sensitivity. Their down fall is power handling though. Even running them active I've cooked a couple of voice coils with 60 watts RMS on tap for the tweeter and 100 watts RMS for the woofer. If the Lanzar's sound half as good as they handle power, I may have to give them a try. I'm really looking forward to your thoughts on them.
 

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Hey MS,

A Russian web site reviewed these speakers. It was not their favorite in that batch, but it scored 8/10 in overall sound which is decent. Their favorite speakers usually get 9/10 (Like Polk DB in the same review). They mention in this review as pros: good power handling, good sound dispersion (off axis), and good bass capability. Cons: low sensitivity, increased harmonic distortion in bass region. What I personally like is the frequency response curve in the upper end that shows a fairly linear response for tweeters, specially 50 degree of axis. To put things into perspective, the FR graph for Infinity Reference components linked above on that page is a lot worse, with tweeters clearly playing much louder than mids on axis and huge drop in FR off axis, which is very typical of a lot of mass market car speakers. Bass response looks good down to 60-70Hz. The only problem is the Taurus doors. No matter how much you sound proof them, they still rattle a little when drums hit. The worst culprits are the electric window buttons.

By the way, this web site seems like a gem. They have reviews of numerous high end speakers, such as Focals and Hertz speakers, subs, and amplifiers hidden deep. There are measurements as well as subjective reviews. Unfortunately, its all in Russian. Google perhaps can help translate it.
 

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My understanding is that the current favorites of the internet forums in the area of "bassy speakers" with good SPL capability are Massive Audio CK6III and the more expensive Massive Audio RK6. However, people with good ears have reported that RK6s are a lot muddier. They're also harder to mount. CK6 are reportedly on the same level with Peerless and Dayton mids. Both sets have bright tweeters. Massive Audio has reworked the crossovers of CK6 and just released the CK6V set. Sonicelectronix is accepting pre-orders for something like $169. Although I have never heard them, I'll trust the reviewers that these are worth at least this much. People had been paying happily over $200 for the older CK6III. I have been thinking of buying them, but decided against doing it. I want to try something else (Hybrid Audio Imagine, maybe I'll post my review).
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
FWIW - I had this set up in my old Contour for a couple years.
My comp set is pieced together, but to make a long story short it's the Opti6c's with a cheaper tweeter.

My amp was/is an Opti400x4d, supposedly capable of 360x2 rms bridged.
The speakers can definitely take the power.
I had the gain conservatively adjusted so the voltage would never exceed about 30v (~250w), hp at 75-80hz.
At high volume I never heard any sign of the speakers struggling.

I wasn't by any means blown away with sound quality, but I wasn't disappointed either, especially considering the far-from-ideal door location of the woofers.
The price along with the volume they will produce w/o distorting makes them well worth checking out IMO.

Easily found for <$130 shipped.
 
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