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I have a 95 Taurus and lately the shifting is goofing up. When I go to shift into reverse, I find that I'm not really in reverse and I have to adjust the shifting lever slightly to actually be. This also happens when shifting into drive. The gear indicator looks like it's in drive, but there's so much play in it, that I find I'm actually in neutral and have to adjust again. What's wrong and how much (ballpark) will it cost me to fix this? Is this a DIY project or a mechanic thing?

While I have your ear, how do I find out if my car is already equipped with a keyless door entry system? I would love to buy one of those keyless remotes but it wouldn't do me any good if it wasn't equipped, would it? :blink:

Yep, I'm blonde and female.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Originally posted by amlaboy@Oct 14 2004, 12:32 PM
I have a 95 Taurus and lately the shifting is goofing up. When I go to shift into reverse, I find that I'm not really in reverse and I have to adjust the shifting lever slightly to actually be. This also happens when shifting into drive. The gear indicator looks like it's in drive, but there's so much play in it, that I find I'm actually in neutral and have to adjust again. What's wrong and how much (ballpark) will it cost me to fix this? Is this a DIY project or a mechanic thing?

While I have your ear, how do I find out if my car is already equipped with a keyless door entry system? I would love to buy one of those keyless remotes but it wouldn't do me any good if it wasn't equipped, would it? :blink:

Yep, I'm blonde and female.

Thanks in advance.
I *THINK* to get the keyless entry on the keyfob you have to have the numbers pad on the door.

My GenIII has the numbers on the door and I have the keyfob opener.
 

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Don't apologize for being Female or blonde. That only perpetuates the myth. Both of my D-I-L's are blonde and good moms. They're both Female, too... :rolleyes:

To your question: It sounds like you have something loose in the shift mechanism; I'm assuming you have the gearshift on the steering column. There's a few mechanical links with adjustments, and they might need a simple tightening of a nut & bolt. Most of the same would apply if you had a floor mounted shifter.
The column mounted shifter also could have some issues within the steering column itself, which could open a whole 'nother can of worms.

Do you have a "significant other" or a trusted friend with a tool box that could peek at the car?

As far as the Keyless entry gizmo goes, there's a module stashed away somewhere if the car is so equipped. Do you already have power locks on the car?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My shifter's on the column.

My hubby doesn't know anything about it either. Does this require pulling the dash out? How would I find out if it just needs a tightening of a nut & bolt? I haven't noticed any other problems with the steering column.

Keyless entry: Yes, I have power locks. Any idea where that module would be stashed? I saw some remotes on ebay for pretty cheap. The whole kit and kaboodle they sell has a ton of wires. Looks complicated to add to your car.

Oh yeah, I'm a good mom too...;)
 

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I believe Qwertz9586 has properly diagnosed the situation for you. It probably involves only a linkage adjustment. Suspect the transmission range sensor (gear position switch--P-R-N-D-L), if the linkage adjustment doesn't solve the problem. It's the major switch the linkage is attached to and is subject to wear.

I would say it's a DIY project for some, but not for others. If the transmission range sensor needs to be replaced, it will probably cost about $25 for the part.
 

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Yes, the keyless entry is the number pad on the door. Do you want that, or do you mean the remote keyless entry, which is just the keyfob? My advice, aside from going to to dealer to have them check for the module, is to have an aftermarket one installed. Future Shop (i dunno if you have that store in the US, but there must be an equivalent) always had remote car starters on sale around this time of year. Last year we had one installed on my mom's car for her for Christmas. I've done a couple, but i can't even buy the Ford system at my cost for what Future Shop sold their system installed for. The total cost to buy and have them install their Nordic Start system was under $200 Cdn, incl. hookin up the power locks to the remote. I'd go that route. That way you get the keyfob for the locks, and the remote start, which is very convenient, and Future Shop offers a lifetime warranty on the system, as long as they install it and do any repairs, should it ever need them.

As for the shifter linkage, it's easy to adjust. Just loosen that nut that holds the shift cable to the top of the MLP (manual lever position) sensor and slide the cable back or forward a bit, then try shifting and see if it's in gear or not. Once that's set up right, you can also adjust the way the indicator on the dash sits. Just remove the knee bolster trim panel and the sheet metal behind it (that's the flat panel on the bottom of the dash under the steering column - just a couple of bolts that hold it on at the bottom, and a couple clips at the top. Once you have that off, look at the underside of the steering column down near the end of the shroud. You should see a think black cable that wraps around from the left side of the column, underneat it, and to a white plastic retainer on the right side at the bottom of the column. Coming out of the end of that plastic cable sheath and going up from that white retainer is a thin metal wire that loops around a little nib on the shifter mechanism. This cable is what pulls the PRNDL needle back and forth to show what gear you're in. You'll notice on the white retainer that there's a small little thumbwheel that you can turn to adjust the cable. Put the gearshift in neutral, then turn the thumbwheel to move the needle left or right to line up in the centre of the N. Then shift it into all the gears and see how the needle lines up, and adjust it if you need to. That's it. Actually pretty simple, despite how my description may sound. Good luck.
 

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Hey! That's that picture I took of Vanessa's speedo cable for the cluster illumination mod!!! :banana:

Sorry.... :p

Some things to repeat/add:

- Qwertz was on the money I think with the linkage bolt being misaligned. To align it right, make sure the car is in park (not rolling when you let off the brake), loosen the nut, and move the lever until it's in the upmost position. Tighten the nut, and then work through the range to make sure the lever is selecting the proper gear as indicated. Also, the play our anonymous blonde poster (sorry I don't know your name) wouldn't be attributed to a worn or faulty range sensor. The detent mechanism is located in the transmission.
- Not all blondes are dumb. Case in point... well, re-read your first post. Not one bit of airheadedness in it! Go you! :thumb:
- If you have the keypad on your drivers door, there's a good chance that you have some sort of a keyless entry system in your car. If not, no biggie. Installing an alarm, while not as inexpensive as grabbing a remote from eBay :lol:, will serve the same functions, as well as helping to keep your car where you left it.

And lastly:

Welcome to the club!!! :tcca: :D
 

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I don't know if the Gen 2 will be the same as my Gen 4, but I have remote locks and no door keypad. I do know though that the controller/reciever for the remote lock system is in the trunk on the drivers side very near to the antenna. It'll be behind the trunk side panel and mine is a box about 8"x4"x2." I'm pretty sure it's near the antenna because it uses the antenna to recieve the signal, but I may be wrong. My Ford CD refers to it as the WIM (wireless interface module) or something close to that.

-mobiuslogic
 

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Ford Taurus
Year  1995
Engine  6cyl - 3.0 Yamaha
Transmission  Automatic
Body type  Sedan
Trim level  GL
I was peeking through your profile and some things don't line up.

?
6cyl - 3.0 Yamaha
Automatic
GL
?

from the sound of things you don't have a yamaha 3.0 because that engine was only offered in the MTX (5 speed) SHO (you have a GL in you profile)

from the sound of thing this would be correct.

*
6cyl 3.0 vulcan
Automatic
GL
*

just informing not trying to give you a hard time. ;)

soulds like a reasonably simple adjustment on the shifter, feel free to ask for pictures if you need any.

welcome!!
 
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Originally posted by Sablewagon@Oct 14 2004, 02:21 PM
They're both Female, too... :rolleyes:
:lol: I literally almost fell off my chair when I read that!

OK, on to your regularly scheduled repair session....
 

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I don't know if the Gen 2 will be the same as my Gen 4, but I have remote locks and no door keypad. I do know though that the controller/reciever for the remote lock system is in the trunk on the drivers side very near to the antenna. It'll be behind the trunk side panel and mine is a box about 8"x4"x2." I'm pretty sure it's near the antenna because it uses the antenna to recieve the signal, but I may be wrong. My Ford CD refers to it as the WIM (wireless interface module) or something close to that.
Actually, that's the Rear Control Unit for the audio system. It's hooked up to the antenna because it receives the signal for the radio from the antenna and sends that to the radio. Also, if you have a cd changer in the trunk, it will be plugged into that unit as well. All the speakers are run from that, not actually right off the deck. So a bit of info - if you decide to install your own aftermarket deck and a gen 3 or newer taurus, you will have to do a lot of wiring work, since just hooking the speaker wires from the deck right to the wires behind the radio won't work. The factory system uses its own protocol that is not compatible with anything else. You would have to disconnect/remove the RCU from the trunk, and patch the speaker wires together where to them in from the deck, and go out to the speakers. I had an aftermarket shop install an amp, sub and speakers into my Gen3, and that's what they did. I kept the factory deck, put in a factory 6-pack changer in the trunk, which plugged right into the RCU, and took it to them. They replaced all the speakers, then cut the wires coming from the RCU to the speakers to run to the amp, then to the speakers. I don't know why Ford made the system like that, cuz it makes it a real pain in the butt to do things, but that's how it is.

The remote keyless entry has it's own module called the Remote Anti-theft Personality module (or RAP module) On the gen 3's it's located under the instrument panel to the right of the steering column. (I'm not sure where it is on the Gen2's - i'm looking at the online service manuals at Ford's website for technicians, but for some reason, they aren't providing the manuals for Taurii older than 96, and since i'm at home on the wknd, i can't look it up in the service manual for you - sorry). If you look at it, there should be a label on it, which should have its name on it somewhere - most modules say what they are on them. If you can't find it, chances are, you don't have one. One thing you may try tho - when you want to program a new keyless entry transmitter, there are many ways to do it. Some vehicles, like the Gen 3 taurus, use a simple on-off sequence with the ignition key -

Following instructions quoted straight from Ford service manual -

"NOTE: Keyless entry remote transmitters (15K601) have individual codes and adding a new code erases a previous code. There is no sure way to determine which code is erased.

When the customer has purchased additional keyless entry remote transmitters, or has replaced a lost keyless entry remote transmitter, the customer MUST bring to the dealer ALL of the keyless entry remote transmitters for the vehicle. The dealer must then reprogram ALL of the keyless entry remote transmitters at the same time. The remote anti-theft personality module erases all previous keyless entry remote transmitters from memory when the keyless entry remote transmitters are programmed or reprogrammed. The remote anti-theft personality module can store up to four keyless entry remote transmitters in memory.

To program (or reprogram) keyless entry remote transmitters into the remote anti-theft personality module, perform the following steps.

Make sure that the anti-theft system is not armed or triggered. Refer to Section 13-11A. (Nidan note - basically unlock the doors with a remote or the key, and make sure the lights and horn aren't flashing/sounding indicating a break-in)

Turn the ignition switch from OFF to RUN five times within 10 seconds, ending in RUN.

If the remote anti-theft personality module has successfully entered program mode, it will lock and then unlock all doors.

Press any button on a keyless entry remote transmitter, and the doors will lock and then unlock to confirm that each keyless entry remote transmitter has been programmed.

If the door locks do not respond for any keyless entry remote transmitter, wait a few seconds and press the button again. If the door locks still fail to respond, go to Diagnosis and Testing, Pinpoint Test A .

Turn ignition switch OFF (or wait up to five minutes after Step 2) to exit program mode. If a new set of keyless entry remote transmitters have been programmed (or reprogrammed), the remote anti-theft personality module will lock and unlock all doors one last time to confirm."

There ya have it folks - like i said, i'm not sure if the procedure is the same for pre-96 taurii but i think it is... you may have to cycle the key more times - 8 comes to mind, maybe 10. So try it if you wanna know - if you cycle the key and the locks cycle, you have keyless entry and can program remotes. If you try it and it doesn't work, you likely don't have it, unless there's a problem with the system. Or just look under the dash for the module and see if it's there.
 
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